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Toybreaker

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Everything posted by Toybreaker

  1. If I did not just drop a bunch of money on the new engine for my Mustang..........
  2. Start with the suspension get it sorted so you aren't beating yourself to death, then add power.
  3. Where are you at? crank and bored cylinders, or a 392 drive line kit.... $1200 about 4 hours to tear down, clean and reassemble....
  4. I just scored a set on craigslist 64.75mm for $50 un ported look around they are out there
  5. $325 shipped for the $100 ebay top end and the crank...
  6. My primary I built. 12"x12"x12" It looks like ass but works beautifully. Lulzbot 18" for the other one. I have access to another 5 that are larger than the ones I have at a local maker space I am a member of.... I might use one of those. the ones at work are HUGE and stratasys. ABS primarily for the stuff I am doing.
  7. and looking at what Claude does i am a hack.... i am a machinist that tinkers with engineering shit without any formal schooling. so no pissing contest here..... my stuff will be functional first, after it works i might make it pretty
  8. Like Claude i am a bit of a geek when it comes to technology. Have a couple printers and lathe/mill/surface grinder/bandsaw at home, have $80k plus in printers and full machine shop at work. Why not? All it is going to cost me is tome and some nylon for the first couple runs.... i have 4 spools of it right now.
  9. Technology is cool, and i have a full machine shop, plus the printers at my disposal. print oversize and machine to dimension if i have to. kinda want to machine a printed sintered metal part anyway
  10. Anyone use 3d printed pistons or domes for mock up purposes? I am getting ready to fianlly go through my spare engine and have cylinders that need a bore as well as what is "supposed" to be a 4mm crank. Want to mock it up with plastic parts. set it to print a pair of pistons, the models I have set up to run are 6 hours for a high resolution print per pair. Do not want to reinvent the wheel if someone else has already done this....
  11. BMW failed state inspection. Banshee plastics take an even further back seat on the list
  12. you can get anything made custom, but I am pretty sure you will not like the price for a billet steel clutch basket.
  13. answered on your other thread. If the float level is good then it is the valve that stops fuel from entering.... you will have it apart replace them anyways. https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/yamaha/1ua-14190-28-00/b1155822?m=145764&sch=246712
  14. 2nd on the take off the clutch cover and inspect it...
  15. There is a little "valve" in the body of your carbs that have a rubber insert on them. they wear out. You need to replace the needle and seat for the fuel inlet on your carbs. Don't just do 1.... you are going to have it apart anyway do them both.
  16. can it be done? Yes Is it worth it? Probably cheaper to get custom domes cut for your application. You need to dial in the existing dome to a gnats ass on axial and radial run out, and cut the squish. Most custom domes are cut on a CNC or prototrak lathe. much easier than dialing in existing used parts. Call and ask. I am a machinist by trade, I'd buy new ones.
  17. Do a plug chop and post pictures. Also post pilot size, what type of needle you are running and clip position. Premix ratio affects jetting as well....
  18. Nice start, don't skip photo's of any step please....
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