ToomeySheeLE

Thanks for the info, some great stuff there I read on here that some people use an r6 shock? is that a big improvement instead of dicking around with the stock rear?

Try 160mains and the same pilots... seems like your right in the ballpark.

I want to start racing flat track and know that I need to do away with a few things and add a few things. I'm a 170lb rider and my bike should be around 75hp. Right now I have a +4swingarm, and am wondering can I get away with using a stock swingarm or are the -1 and -2's a must.. if so whats better between a -2 over a -1? there are a few tracks one is hardpacked clay and another is gravel/sand. Is there a tire thats pretty all round? I can get a set of Duro's all around for a decent price, but they may be junk I'm not sure... I have +2 arms and a +4 axle, can I get away with using stock front shocks perhaps keeping the outside one on a stiffer setting? I have Dual rate works I can toy around with as well.. Is a stock rear shock usable or should I be looking for an "r6" shock on ebay? And last but not least, will I need a sway bar to be competitive? I really dont feel like putting a 75hp banshee on the track if it simpily can't keep up to 450's that have a chassis set up better and are only pulling 2/3 of the HP.. thanks for any info

Do you need to run the stuffers at all?

Balls to the wall riding - Shearer Wanting some more mid punch and still great top end - CPI's Wanting more low-mid punch and decent top end -Toomey t-5's It depends on what RPM range you want most of your power at.. Shearers rev out around 11000rpm, Cpi's are good for about 10500rpm and the t-5's around 9200-9500rpm.. with the capability to hit the higher Rpm comes a slight decrease in lowend power.. I personally love my CPI inframes, I think they're the most suitable for most riding. I listed these 3 makes because I know they compliment porting and engine work very well and better than most other (inframe)pipes.

I'd try some JB weld, or other Liquid type weld.. mush less hassle and would hold without a problem.

Thanks for the input bud, I dont know a damn thing about banshee's and will be sure to contact you next time I have a question.. Everything was gone over, it was the gasket. Thanks for your 10 cents though.

I did a little bit of researching and noticed that alot of people complain about the 4 stroke top end kits that they make as well.. Not only did they supply me with 2 left side base gaskets I had to file the holes a bit to make them slide over the cylinder studs dowels..

Previous faith in parts and correct torque can lead someone astray as far as preforming a leak test when just doing a top end.. After this I will be for sure next time around.

So I just rebuild a bike and used a tusk top end gasket kit.. There were 2 base gaskets in the kit that were identical, having a thin line of adhesive on the same sides. They both appeared to be for the left cylinder as it would make sense that the sealant faced down. I didnt think much of it and put the bike together with the right side base gasket flipped over so it would fit.. Blew her up the following day as the gasket let air in and leaned out the cylinder. I'm trying to get ahold of the company, but there website appears to be down.. Anyone else ever used these kits?

I've heard around 3hp from cpi inframes to cpi out of frames... unless your strickly drag strip they would be a pain to ride with though.. easy to smack of things and dent up..

Do you have carbs?

Are the carbon tech ones that you use 1 piece? 2 years and still a tight seal on my tdr's.. guess everyone has different experiences.. I wont buy anymore though, not because I dont like the product but because the company screwed me around.

I just changed my oil, we'll see if that makes a difference.. unfortunitly I only had the 80w gearsaver kicking around, so a fresh batch of that went in.. If it continues I'll try some 10w40.

Doesn't look like any DG I've ever seen.. Theres some nice ones on here that look similar.. and they're a good company to deal with http://prm-atv.com/MN.asp?pg=products&grp=57&mfr=3

Chance your head was not torqued down, or the gasket was pinched? Depending how you were doing your heat cycles, it is possible to overheat a banshee if your not having any air go through the rad and just reving ut up for long periods of time.. I've seen 2 different bolt on banshee piss coolant all over from doing donuts for extended periods of time on a hot summers day.. Other than that I think you'll be alright.. put the new parts in it, and start it up, open your rad cap and see that there is coolant "movement" to ensure that the impeller is in fact working..

Not an OEM banshee part ...

Agreed .. must be running awful rich if the carbon build up is a problem.. if you can still read the numbers on the top of the piston I wouldn't get too excited about cleaning them up.. perhaps go down a main jet size though..

Hmm.. yellow and black or red and black.. or basically anything with flames ..

Either something is horribly misaligned or theres a bent shaft.. that just shouldnt happen under any Normal cirrcumstances.. deal it

I am running Knarlies right now and have no complaints.. I like them better than the razr's I had previous... I am going to try the stock yfz tires that Loco recommends next .. gotta switch it up.. Something tells me that they'll wear out rather quickly though..

Just wondering if you guys think this is a possibility... I have powdercoated cases, and after riding for a while my gears get "stickier" to shift... is it possible that more heat is being trapped in my gearbox since the cases are powdercoated, and making for shit shifting? I'm always running either 80w gearsaver or 80w honda tranny oil..

They were new and WERE together correctly when installed.. Perhaps I got ahold of a slightly defective set, but either way they left me with a bad impression and didn't perform as good as the others on my bike.. I dont run reed spacers, but am using the 1 peice Boss intake.

Were you using the thicker TDR reeds that are for modified engines? They seem very strong to me.. I cut the bridge out of my reed block and have been running them for 2 years without issue so far..

Was running TDR 1 peice reeds on modded cages and switched to some v3's.. Noticed a snappier throttle response, but was honestly thinking it lacked a bit in the higher RPM"s.. I got 2 rides in with the V3's and... Today after putting some need orings in my head, I started my bike up and it seemed to be running kinda funny, sometimes just on 1 cylinder and sometimes sputtery like the carbs weren't syched.. I warmed it up at idle and took it for a putt around my yard and then it reved to the moon, then died.. I started it back up and it reved like crazy and died again... Seemed like my throttle was stuck.. anyways it wasn't and I took some tools down to the injured banshee as it was too far to push back in the garage.... I then took the intake off and the v3's out.. looked them over and one pedel was completely missing, I looked in the intake of the cylinder and sure enough there it sat.. in its entirety.. Needless to say I wasn't impressed and I'm through the reliable TDR's back in.. took it for a ride with them in it and noticed better mid-top pull.. The reeds were tight and fully together when I originally installed them... Perhaps they provide all round gains on bolt on bikes, but my dune ported 4mm definitely likes the TDR's on ported cages over the Vforces. So... They are not worth the crazy retail price IMO.