badassbanshee479

offers?

son of uh, now I know why my bike only made 110 hp and not 115 I forgot to buy the upp intakes with the boost bottle ports in them :: :biggrin: some peoples kids should not be allowed to have a computer. I tell ya what, come on up to michigan over one of the big holidays and tell a&s, rdz, grand river, tyson etc that that dont know shit and that your wanna be banshee is gonna bust all of there asses cause you have a boost bottle and I guaritee after they get done laughing at you they will tear you apart :biggrin: oh and if you can come with in 5 bikes of mine on the tack I will buy all your gas and I will put a boost bottle on my bike for ya

jeff does great work, he ported my buddys bike with an agressive dune port and that bike rips!! I think if you stepped up to a set of cpis or t-5s and had your stock cylinders ported, you will have more then enough power to trail ride with!

I have three shees and a dirt bike all with mods, this could get long :biggrin:

I went with the 1mm for 1 degree on my stock plate off my play bike and it works great! it did help that my drag bike has an aftermarket plate in it so I could look at that while I cut the stocker

man who set that engine up and what pipes do you have on it?? 75 hp out of a 4mill cub? alittle low I would say. and I dont think you need all that gear if you want to come out of the hole faster. get some super light 10 paddle extreams 22-11-8 with about 3-4 psi in them and hold on! are you running race fuel? whats your compression? how much timeing are you running? I am thinking 15-44 gearing should work. I think thats where mine is at and I weigh 230

I bought a 10mill billet crank built by twister thinking I was gonna build a bigger engine this winter but bills are adding up so the extras have to go. would like to get 600.00 for it shipped.

can I get some pics of the cases please. are they chain broke at all?

B9EGV on alky!!

only run them in till they are flush with the bottom of the cylinder. they can and will go all the way through the hole and they will be bouncing around in the coolant passage. just a heads up for ya. you got the stud extenders for the two lower case studs right?

dave is one hell of a rider. and I dont think I would run a bike out that far even with the billet bowls. why chance it when a fuel pump is only 40.00

better put a fuel pump on it if you are gonna run it out 600 ft! you will suck the float bowls dry and that will be the end of your top end! purging is not bad at all takes like 5min. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6136815352508756093 here is a video of a fast racing 4mill on alky (blue bike) giving a fast 4mill on gas the head start. these are both cub motors built by the same builder.

for as much money as I have in my bike I dont like to chance it, especialy when its like 5 bucks for 2 quarts of atf. much cheaper than a new trans etc...

I run 2 full quarts of atf type f in my drag bike and I run maxxima mtl 80 weight in my play bike. if you are gonna run atf you have to change it often cause it is thin and it brakes down quickly. I change mine after a weekend of riding and or racing.

sounds like the carbs are not in senc, did you pull the filters and make sure both slides are opening at the same time? also make sure the slides are at the exact same height as one another. FAST racing has a cool tool to senc your carbs if you want them dead on. also di you make sure all the tors stuff was removed and or un pluged? chased a dead cylinder on my buddys bike only to find that he had pluged the tors module back in under the gas tank and did not tell me.

the pwer valves on the big cheeta engines give the bike more low end. it is a valve that goes down into the exhaust port and it makes the exhaust port timing lower till you rev the bike up then the valve pulls back out of the port causeing the port timeing to raise and become a drag port in a way. the big cheeta would be better for trails but they are alot more expensive to build cause they use custom domes, reeds, intakes, and you have t have them ported, cases trenched pending on what stroke you go, and you have to cut the top case half cause most of the cheetas are big bores like 71-74mm cubs are nice because they use all the stock bashee stuff. If you are not building a drag bike why dont you just have a good builder port your stock jugs to fit your riding style. FAST charges 350.00 for a dune port. you will have about 1500-2000 in a cub, and I am gonna guess at about 2000-3000 in building a big cheeta

I have seen a set of cylinders that when the rod bearing let go it busted the cases the cylinder and the rod :sad: not a good thing at all. I would pull it down asap and get it checked out!

his bike ran damn good when he could shift it :biggrin:

shoot me a price on the pipes if and when you part it out. thanks

free bump for a straight up guy!

price? whats all included?

I have a set of 39pwks set up for alky, mains and dumps at .120 dgh needles 60 pilots, power jets drilled out to .120 one float removed and billet bowels. would like to get 400.00 plus the ride for them.

I have a trip planed to go to idaho in the third week of june. Its jeffs anual trip and I am gonna tag along this year. I think rippin and a few others on here are gonna go too. so as long as its not real close to this time I am game for a spring ride.

you do know that if you go 1-5 over ride with 6th gear when you shift into 6th you have to come to a complete stop before you down shift back out of 6th or you will gernade the tranny. where do you run your bike at?

give me some dates and I will bring some MI boys with me. and if there is anyone that needs a ride in or around MI let me know I always seem to have room.