badassbanshee479

55-60 hp

you can buy straight cut gears that go on the crank and the back of the clutch basket that will give you more top speed. http://rdzracing.com/RDZ_Racing_The_Home_o...erformance_.htm rdz is not the only place making these so look aound on the net and you should be able to find what you are looking for.

I should have no problem with that bussa shee next year, I was having a heck of a time miss shifting, come to find out my shift shaft and shift forks were flat wore out, so while I has in there I added a 2-5 override lock-up and cover, straight cut gears and a hinson setup. like I said the bussa shee will have its hands full now

I asked the guys over on planet sand if it would be worth it for me to sell my 4mill and step up to a 7 or a 10 mill cub, alot of responses I got reliability will suffer more and more the bigger you go. its like the old saying says, the dog that $hits fast, don't $hit long. and is that 7mill drag ported? do you just drag it or do you dune it all day long? I mean if I made a 24mill t-rex motor and did nothing but ride it around the pits it would last forever two!! its all in what you do with it and how you take care of it.

I would worry about tire pressure,and swing arm alignment before I would worriy about the paddles being aligned, I never have aligned my paddles and I have never experanced my bike pulling from it, but if the tire pressure is not the same or if the swing arm is not set to go staight then you are never gonna get the bike to leave striaght. just my 2 cents.

I would not use the little pads on the out side of the flywheel to hold the flywheel still while losing it, those pads are the triggers to tell the coil when to fire, you f them up and you better be lookin for a new flywheel or your bike will run like poop!

gonna need the big tool kit for the stroker 4 stroke anyway misewell go big or go home right? I think I would stay with a 4 mill anything over that and the reliability goes out the window when duning. oh and I have not found a four stroke yet that can touch my 4mill cub

pm sent

I want the water pump cover, where and how do ya want the cash??

yeah ps took care of it, I m gonna give it a try, can't hurt.

did you buy the one with the preset curves or did you get the one you can program your self??

pros cons?? is it worth the money/ can you tell a differance?

hard to do wheelies with a +4 and a 421 cub, hahahahahahahahaha thats funny, I have an 8 over with my 421 and it is still a handfull!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

looking for any year banshee that is a roller or has a blown engine. would like to build a dune bike and make mine full drag now. let me know what ya got and how much pics would help also.

the state park has water front spots and more spots across the street, as far as spark aresters are concerned, I just slip mine on while the bike is in the back of the truck, then when I get in the dunes I pull them off and ride it all day without a problem. my friends and I have done this for years no tickets yet. just dont draw attention to your self around the dnr rangers and you will be fine. let me know when you plan on headig out this way and I my have to take a trip up and show ya around, its only about 2.5 hrs from my place.

yeah your right, those magic cylinders are smokin cubs all day long, I forgot

let me know where you guys are running, I want in on the action.

bumper sold, axle sold, head pending, clutch cover pending. eveything else is open to offers.

you dont need a puller for the clutch just pull the bolts out of the pressure plate, remove the fibers and plates, then there will be a big nut holding the inner hub on, bend the retainer away from the nut, hold onto the basket with a rag and hit it with an impact, after the nut is off, the clutch assembely should just slide off. after you get that off, make sure to remove the two filups screws holding the bearing retainer on that is behind the clutch basket, the retainer is conected on the top and bottom case halfs, other than that, pull the case bolts, tap the front and rear of the cases and then lift and there is your crank. make sure you get some yamabond to mate the two halfs together, also watch and make sure all the seals fall into there groves, and watch the crank bearings, I know the stock ones have pins in them that sit in groves on the case halves. (my hot rods crank does not have them though) just keep an eye out if you are puting a stock crank back in.

sale pending on the bumper and the stock head right now, I will let ya know if it falls through.

stock head non milled no pits aftermarket front bumper in great shape no dents! stock banshee axle that has been chromed. stock clutch cover, would work great for a lock up core, brake lever rubed on front of cover not bad at all though stock bore 19cc pro design cool head domes will fit NOSS machine also stock intake boots, ported to fit 35mm carbs, also started to cut for my v force 2's but ended up buying 39mm carbs and upp intakes stock cages ported with good tdr reeds everything is best offer, let me know if ya need more pics

drank beer from glass bottles all weekend no one said a thing, its pretty layed back and leanyent around there. to all with a 9 hour drive, it took me 16.5 hrs to get there last time, talk about a boring ride. worth every second though!!!

Put the two together!! you should have the cylinders ported to compansate for the longer stoke anyway. if you dont you will not get the full potential out of the crank. port timing will be off causing poor performance with just adding a stroker crank. just my 2 cents

I will come down if everyone stays the whole time this time!! long trip and only got to meet a select few members.

make sure to get the sheet metal screws without the self taping tips, these will rip out real easy. I have a set of tires studded up no tubes did not hook hard enough for me so I got some snowmobile studs and put a bunch of them in there. it hooks like on ashfault now!!