dajogejr

Actually...it's 95 and 96 are different, and it's their wiring harness...but, since my wiring is all 96...it's all good. It must be my computer. Sheesh...what's wrong with people.

The top end wasn't stolen...it flew off when he stopped from 109 MPH....

I'd like to see pistons on both sides, as well as return springs for zero brake drag. I can't wait to see what you come up with on this one....

250lbs, 300 foot at a time. Sport Utes are for pulling...

Funny...that's how I wound up with my 96. My buddy bought it brand new in 96...barely used it, stored it from 99 to 2004...and I got it. I tried the Rockets on my bone stock, original motor with pod filters and +4 timing, I thought they sucked to be honest. I couldn't wait to get my T5s back on. Not to mention, no matter what I did, it was like smacking my knees on a beer keg in the trails.

It's all what you're comfortable with. Mikuni vs. Keihin is like Ford vs. Chevy....

stop running that bike now and put one in. You can either spend a little now or possibly split the cases later. No way I'd run any drag bike without a pancake bearing!!

It's actually called a flexhone. I've called it a bb hone for years, you'll see why. http://www.brushresearch.com/flex-hone.php...CFQzxDAodQESuBA

I've been told to use a diamond hone as well....but I'm not real good at listening. I just used a run of the mill BB hone with solvent pouring through the cylinder, no issues. I've yet to have a piston to wall clearance out of the box on any 68 bore cub I've worked on, but...I did have to file a ring or two down just a hair.

I've used both the DD style and currently the slingshot type, if you rev the piss out of them in gear...it'll creep. I always pull up and stage in 2nd gear, have a Nuetral down too.

We've all broke some shit here and there learning, I know I sure as shit have. Usually, this serves as a learning purpose...and as many times as people say I just threw it together, there are cases it will come to bit you in the ass. Your squish is fine now...run it!!

Yep... If you only got to 5th gear, you're probably only running a couple hundred feet. Try 15/43 as said. Then hold on. 16/38 is what I'd run or close to it for an 1/8 mile with a nasty big motor.

It was just a marker, with CO on the side of the cylinder...

Chariot Head. Less Orings, one piece instead of two, and to be honest...I like the look better. Not that looks should overcome function, they don't...but if we didn't care about looks, they wouldn't be offered in different colors, right? Chariot or Noss, both good people who stand behind their product and ar very helpful. After using both, I like the simplicity and few Orings of the Chariot head.

I still will not use their products. Nice write up Snop. And with the billet plate available from Chariot for almost half the price of a Pro-Design, they got that covered now. And I can tell you Chariot service is awesome. I did have to run a tap down the hold down bolt holes in the Chariot plate (for the wire clips), no big deal. There is a reason they are so cheap, I'd bet they farm out everything and send it overseas....for a 1/4 of the price and 1/16 of the quality, and it's showing.

Don't take this the wrong way....but if it is the same bike AND same motor, it was cheating. It's a 0-475 class and that red superman bike is a 10 mil super cub. My bike had the record for a minute, Charlie Ohton put his initials on the cylinder. But after the whole gaurd beam fiasco....oh well. My bike raced Jarid on here, can't remember his screen name on one of the passes, it was 3.76 or 3.78, I saw the slip...it was false! I saw that bike at Ionia....it is fast, no doubt, but we were all told it was a 10 mil super cub.

Are you talking 08 or 09... If your buddy ran 3.79s...it wasn't good enough to get in the finals. My bike and a Donnie Rawls motor were in the finals, and Frank lost to Hinks, and yep...it was a 7mm cub. My bike is a stock cut frame in a duner setup...no BS. Check the date on his time slip. If he had a terrible reaction time and unrealistically low 60 foot time, it was a bad pass. The gaurd beams were on the first day, off the next two...then on the remainder of the event. Bryan... A solid running 7 mil cub in the correct chassis setup at PS should run 3.8s or so. Let's forget about that time for a second. Win the race, win the class. 0-475cc class is huge. All 4, 7 and 10 mil stock cylinder and cubs. Not everyone has the cabbage to run 800 cc plus motors....but a smaller cub is affordable, after that it's tuning!

It was a buddy, the 3.7 timeslips were not good. I saw them. Realistically...it probably would've been more like a high 3.8 bike with him on it. He's 160ish. If you've never ran 300 foot of sand or dirt before, then yes, I would say you are the underdog. I'm sure you can take a hill or pavement setup and start there, but there's going to be more tuning from there. Like I said...I'm not using any baseline. Same track, same day...same time. If you want to take numbers from your track and compare them to mine, that makes as much sense as taking numbers from your dyno and comparing them to ones here. Surely you can understand that...

Gotcha... 10 mil cub, stock cut frame, alky, and I"m 250. I'll have a new frame in the next few months. But you'd have to run at a track I run at or vice versa. Anyone will tell you, each track is different. You'd have to beat my time realistically at the same track.

Put a second nut on the bolt (red loctite it) Longer bolts (obviously, check clearances)

Show me where I referred to myself as a top dog. All I said was people will be beating a path to you door if you do something no one else can do. Sorry about your accident, no joke...hope you get better soon. But since all I've ever raced is sand/dirt in 300 foot, in your case that might not make me top dog, but it does make me the wiser and much more experienced dog than you. I'm 100% certain you wouldn't find me telling people what to do on pavement, other than forward information from friends that do ride like gearing setup, etc. That is not my world. Take that for what you want.

Check the gauge with your cousin's rig. Does the threaded part go all the way as far as the spark plug itself? If not, it will be a false reading (low) 45-50 hours is in fact typical. Check out the factory recommended replacement on a new 4 joke....much lower.

Let me know when you hit 300 foot sand. I'd like to see the results, in all seriousness. If you're able to accomplish more than the top dogs in 60s and 300 foot with smaller motors, etc, people will be beating paths to your door for information, and it will be up to you to share it. Lastly.... fouledout is a fellow MI racer and good friend. We are all family here, and when you hit one, you hit us all. We all have each other's backs. Right or wrong. Just how we are.... :thumbsup:

Bryan... I know you know your shit. That's not in question here. What is in question is talking about all these NHRA/IHRA setups, pavement, etc., when this guy rides 300ft dirt. My other point is just because something should work in principle, doesn't mean it will work in actual application. Your years at the track should have taught you that. Sounds good, looks good...works?? Ah...like shit. Us 300 ft. sand/dirt guys don't run cut springs. Some run all HD, some run stockers, some mix and match. Hell, some even run those RDZ springs which you could use to suspend your truck, those F'ers are STIFF!!! I don't think he has to cut springs to get what he wants in 300ft in sand or dirt. I've talked to my good buddy Tedder, a pavement guy, and for that application I'm 100% on your side. They actually cut springs and use a 2 stage clutch (I sent him some extra springs I had, tedder is just an all around GREAT guy) So...no more drama, not helping this guy at all. Truce?

Cool... I'll have to remind all my buds that race asphalt they can take their same clutch setup and priniciples from the 1/8 and use it in 300' cause you said so. Not because you've actually run the 300', but because you said so. I'll see how that works out for them. I'm glad I'm cheap entertainment for you....luckily, ignorance doesn't cost you anything.