dajogejr

Depends on what their perfect tree is. Around here, perfect tree on sportsman is .500, and on pro tree it's .400. I've been to tracks where their reaction is based off the real number, some set it to zero. In other words, say you had a reaction time of .555 on a .500 light. That's good. But some tracks will start it at .000, so your reaction time would read .055.... Just find out if they start at .000 or .500 or .400. Ask them what a perfect light is. A .515 on a .500 light is awesome. If it's a .000 light, you need to wake up...

180 lb rider in 300 feet you want to leave in 2nd and cross the traps in 5th with 5th wound out. I understand you don't have the dough for an override....but it's the next mod. A 421 cub with a lockup and no override, you're just begging to get beat on a drag strip by much smaller and slower bikes because of not being able to shift. Been there, done that. PM me when you're ready for an override. Short of finding a used/beat up one, I've got the best prices on a freshly cut dunable override...right up your alley. Depending on paddle, you'll end up with a 16/46 or a 15/42 or 53. I run 16/45 on my 10 mil cub on alky. It's perfect for my rider weight and setup. I got more weight on you, but I got a little more motor too. dragbanshee98...I can understand your reasoning due to class rules, etc. I can promise you in your instance around here, you'd get beat by smaller bikes with less motors that have a full on override. You simply can not shift a bike as fast or efficiently if you don't have an override, I don't care if you cut dogs, get a star, shift pro kit or a yakkey shift drum with roller bearing. It is impossible!

Very few builders can make a stock cylinder as fast as a 4 mil cub. But...the chosen few can make them run no doubt. You can bolt on a cleaned up 4 mil cub on methanol in a good state of tune and get 100 HP all day long. Now you have the nikasil vs. iron sleeve argument. The nikasil is tough as nails...lasts a long time. But, you scratch it too bad or flake the plating, it costs more money to have them stripped and plated. Iron, not as tough, but....easily boreable. Coin toss. I like the Nikasil. I have an HJR ported cylinder and cases, one buddy has A&S and the other has K&T. All build great motors. Jeff is out of town on vacation, talked to him last week via PMs. I can promise you without a doubt 875 is the cylinder only, nothing else. That is MSRP on a set of cubs.

There are a lot of builders out there that do great work. Keeping in mind, a ported motor is ONLY as good as the person setting it up and riding it. What I like about Kevin is a 2 week turn around time is an actual, 14 calendar day, honest to goodness 14 day turn around time. He's given me a few pointers, ideas and things to try as well. Looking forward to riding this weekend and getting it dialed in.

Thread file is cheaper. A new/used stock carb will work too. remove the TORS while you're at it. In a pinch, I've used Duct Tape to secure it....but obviously, that's not the best way. Stock carb caps are garbage...very, very fine threads and easy to strip with ham hands.

Found it...thanks. Search for thermocap and it came right up with part numbers.

Any of you run the 13 PSI radiator cap with a built in temp gauge? Looking for a manufacturer and part number. Thanks!!

Other than obvious signs of breakage, wires stripped, plastic melted, no. It's one of those things, replace it with a known good working one. Beg or borrow one. One of the reasons I keep a spare at the track, just in case. They don't go bad often, I'd say out of the whole ignition, the CDI probably has the lowest failure rate. But when they do...it can be no spark, it can act weird only when warmed up...etc.

There are two things. You have to be able to make the RPMs and make good power...and you have to be able to turn the gearing and tires to do it. On top of those...6th gear is TALL...damn near like an override. My bike doesn't have 6th gear, so I'd have to gear/tire it to hit over 100 in 5th. But I know my bike will pull 18/36 gearing...with a 20 or 22 inch tire. Pitts...don't get me wrong. I'm not saying it can't be done. It can be...and it can be done reasonably. I just see too many ebay and craigslists ads where a guy bolts on a set of pipes and an air filter on the bike and claims his 100MPH speed was verified by cousin Jethro running next to him in his station wagon/Pacer/Gremlin.

Throw a little compression or more timing it's way to pickup the bottom end.

Bad ground. Bad CDI. Bad rewind on the stator.

Never raced or ragged, but GPS Radard' (which one, it's either GPS or Radar) at 101. I'd love to know what a r22 carb is. It's got a lot of chrome. Pipes, head lights, bars and tail lights. Yeah, that's a lot. I guarantee it's an overbore piston kit...not a big bore kit. Like .020 over, something like that... Ask him for details. What size tires he is using, what gearing he is using, what is an r22 carb, who did the porting, and what size are the pistons. I bet he BS's his way through half if not all of that. Or...the standard...I was told....blah blah.

Yes. List your mods, then use this calculator for gearing and tire size. If your motor doesn't spin and make power past 10,500...forgetaboutit. I'm 100% certain I can gear mine to do 100 MPH plus easy. I also have 3 times the HP this bike advertised does. Here's your calculator. Get a radar gun reading. I don't trust those trailtech tachometers any further than I can throw them. You'd have to have aggressive porting, very free flowing pipes and large carbs to even spin to 11k plus. http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm

Normally what I like to do is ask them what gearing the run. They email them a gearing chart and tell them to buy some better dope.

Try another link or something, I couldn't get that one to work.

Are you actually serious?

I can all but guarantee with 18cc domes at 8500 feet it will be no where near that. If they want to run dunes and hot lap bikes, I'd shoot for mid 50's on the squish, 160 or so PSI and about a 17:1 UCCR, give or take. You will lose probably about 10% performance or so, but the motor will hold together longer because there won't be as much heat.

Wait...Wait...I got one, pick me, pick me.... Why did Bansheee Terror Cross the road? To get a Fucking dictionary to learn how to spell C H I C K E N.

I'd say probably in the 15 to 20 dollar range...see you there. We'll be rolling the same crew at West Michigan, but in a motor home instead....same trailer though.

http://www.sacoriver.net/~red/uccr.html

I honestly don't know....believe me, I wish I could find a reasonable and reputable stator place. They don't exist. You don't think Kevin G. could handle this? The guy knows everything else...

UCCR is uncorrected compression ratio. Cranking PSI alone is not enough to setup a motor. Squish band is how thick the solder is smashed, from tip to where it's no longer smashed. Get a set of alky domes from Kevin....

I'm impressed...nice work! Let's see some pics!

Recheck all the wires and connections, run an extra ground wire from the motor to the frame.

I would agree with everything you said except for this. On methanol bikes I've had mine break at the intake side, and have seen buddy's bikes break on the intake side from being leaned out. I got stupid with a power jet and went from 6 turns down to 2. Learned the hard way on that one. I keep that piston as a reminder to try and not be stupid.