dajogejr

Oh yeah...a good jetted/running shee is something that always brings a smile to your face...

Sred...you think that fat of a main if he has an airbox w/ the lid and/or snorkel still in place? Oops...looks like Sheefreak answer that for me... Surprising...I'm running 310's with T5's and have NO airbox...

I dont' think the timing in itself would give you "less" mid. If anything, advanced timing over stock will only improve lower all the way to WOT. Have you messed with your pilot ciruit or needle at all?

Kinda what I was thinking too...Sred. Thanks for the confirmation!

I dunno... If you're gonna run race gas, I'd put the 20cc domes back in. Together with 4 to 8 degrees of timing, your bottom and mid should pick up considerably... Again...can't say what 6 will do. 4 is a good, safe starting point. Some here run upwards of 7 or 8. But, they're stroked, bored...etc. Better to start out small... Someone here correct me if I"m wrong...but, compression changes have more to do with Race Gas than timing...except an extreme timing advance...for the likes of a strict drag/stroked/bored/alcohol bike....

either tube on either side will over flow if the bowl gets too full (Float height or debris) I've taken mine apart enough lately...I should know... There's a drain screw on the bottom each carb, use that. Before you pull it all the way off, tip it to the left then right...it'll spill out of either tube. I say stuck float, incorrect float height, or debris. Could be a combo of any of 'em. Correct float height, BTW, is 21 cm, from carb bowl gasket surface to the flat side of the float. Yeah...Never Satisfied. My buddy pulled the motor out in late 99/early 2000 to give to his buddy, had a new shift shaft put in. Motor sat out of it for about 5 years. I got it for a steal...and my buddy bought it new in 96. I did all the other work to is since new!!

Just finished up going the jetting routine myself. For sea level to 1000ft. I assume you have a K&N Filter using the stock airbox. What I've read around here is the SST's like a fat pilot. Get a 27.5 Pilot, and turn your air screws 1.5 turns out from seated. I'd bet you could start with a 240 or 250 MAIN and be very close. Like previously mentioned...we can't give you exact jetting...but we can get you in the ballpark. As said...look at your plugs...they'll tell you.

Start at +4 with pump gas...

Have to pull the side cover off, get a new gasket, and replace the Tranny oil AND Coolant. If you have the money, here's what I'd do. Get a jug of Engine Ice...anyways. Flush out your system with the garden hose. This is a nice, reliable and improved impeller: http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=1207&catid=323 I'm sure you could find a comparable one to save a few bucks. Tighten it all back up, put the engine ice in. That should solve your cooling issues. Since you mentioned tight, slow trails to ride..it doesn't sound like you're holding her wide open all the time. Also...recently, I used to have a little dribble out the overflow tube when I'd shut down after a few runs. I relocated the resevoir to the front of the bike...and it doesn't drip a drop now. Magic also sells this, for cheap. Allows the draining of coolant only, without removing the whole side cover. Oh...looks nice, too:) http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=1209&catid=323

Ray...there's quite a few John Deer tractor places up there by you... Also...there's a Bobcat dealer over off Hall Road and Mound area... I'd bet one of them can help out...

And while the bowls are off, blow some air through the seat, too. The correct float height don't mean squat if there's a nice piece of dirt or other object not letting the needle seat properly.... I got my quad after my buddy let it sit for nearly 5 years. There were acutal peices of leaves and junk in the carbs. Gas just poured out of the tubes. I cleaned up both up, re jetted, cleaned ALL the passages, some with a tiny wire...and whaddaya know...good to go!!

it's all good.

Didn't mean that as an all around power band pipe. Re-read the post. Meant that as an all around WITH motor mods pipe. As in the T6's are stock port pipe...the T5's are stock OR ported motor.... You'll note on this page the T6 is designed for Stock Engines...go further down, it says T5 for Stock and Modified Engines. http://www.toomey.com/html/pipe_systems.htm

Yup yup. Didn't want to put any words in DL's mouth. He's a member...and can clarify if he chooses. Only saying what I'd do in his shoes...sounds like everyone else agrees...too. However...if you catch him after an ass wadding where he bumped his noggin real good...he might give away the specs...heck, might give away the company...

Correct. T6's are for bolt on stuff...stock motor. T5's are all around. Toomey's site even says so. That being said...I'm sure an engine builder will find a great package to get the best out of the T6 with porting, etc. As for right now...though, T6's are for stock porting with bolt ons. That's the whole reason I got 5's...I plan on porting after this riding season...and, or course...they were cheaper... I'm very happy with them. With a +4 stator plate, VF2s and a NOSS head, I'm hoping to pick up a bit of bottom to mid, and keep me top end. I'm never going to expect it to be 4 stroke torquey...though..without a huge sacrifice on top.

Not sure...beerman. I've never jetted/taken apart a Blaster carb. I can tell you they are much longer. They extend fully into the main jet. If you ask Toomey, Stu will tell you it's a custom ground dynojet needle made for Toomey only. While Stu is a very nice, helpful and respectable guy...he has a business to run, and needs to make money. So...I can't tell you if it's a blaster needle or not... IF it were my guess...I'd say it's not...

I'd just buy the domes. Since you're at a machine shop...you should've just milled the head .010 to .030. But, the NOSS head is nicer, cooler running, etc. Dave Noss is a heck of a nice guy...but, that's his livelyhood. You MIGHT be able to ask him for blueprints...but, if it were my design...sorry, but I'd ask you to buy my product!! I'm sure he has countless hours and $$ spent in developing this stuff... Well worth it...on both counts. Just my .02

Rocky Mountain ATV has the T5 Toomey's, Chrome...for cheap. I'd get the Toomey Jet kit from Magic Racing. It's on their website in the clearance section... If you plan on removing the air box...you'll have to go bigger on your mains then what is included in their jet kit. If you plan on only removing the airbox lid and snorkel...they're mains should be ok. If you look at my sig, my motor is bone stock (for now... ) But, without the air box...I'm running 310 mains and 27.5 pilots. Pulled my plugs yesterday, and they are perfect. Light chocolate...perfect! The kit comes with 270 and 280 mains. Too lean for me. I had 290's in before I even got their kit. I bought it because I called Toomey, and they wanted 25 bucks PER needle, without anything else. The whole kit including needles is only 29.95 from Magic... I'm waiting for Ray to get some Rocket Pipes in so I can test 'em out. But, Toomey T5's are a great choice for stock and especially ported motors. The stock shee pipes are so terrible and restrictive...just about any pipe you put on is going to make a world of difference! Don't forget to open up the airbox a bit, though..more out, get more in!!! Jet Kit: http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=1340&catid=75 Pipes/sliencers: http://www.rockymountainatv.com/Product_Sh...+T%2D5+Pipe+Set Heck...if you wanted to get steel finish...for about 400 bucks for pipes and jets, w/ shipping...you'd have yourself a heck of an improvement!!

I just put a HD clutch in my shee....and I purchased a brand new cable and EZ Clutch perch/lever about two months ago. Routed it perfectly, no kinks or drags, and lubed the cable even when brand new. It's still a stiffy.... Got this perch/assm. http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=1379&catid=157 Short of taking the side cover off, and putting in 3 factory springs, and leaving 3 HD springs...is there any better way? I really don't feel like draining fluid, especially @ 17 bucks for a bottle of Engine Ice I JUST put in a few weeks ago....getting a new gasket, etc. After riding with a friend yesterday for a few quick, short drag races...my arm was PUMPED up...

Good point indeed. When using the Tap...use a ton of cutting oil or WD40. After drilling...I'd put the tap in 1 to 2 turns...oil her, turn her out. Remember, if you've never used a tap before....always turn it in, then back it out just a hair furter than you turned it in. That'll keep the threads cleaned.... Really...once the carbs are off the bike and dissasembled...it'll take about 1/2 hour to 1 hour. Sure you could knock it out in 10 minutes...but, what would be the point? I would file down the boss After you drill and tap the hole. That way...you have more of a "Guide" to drill and tap.

Yeah....you can make them flush...if you wanted to...to the carb bodies. I've got about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of thread left. Luckily...I set mine at 1.5 turns in...and it's idled perfectly every since....cold or warm.

I was going to have my roommate do this for me, since he works in a machine shop. Drill press, etc. Really...you can do this on a bench... The hole is already there, and you're not taking out much metal. I STRONGLY advise you to take the whole carb apart, bowls off...jets out, etc. Once done, take a good 200 grit wetsand paper, and smooth any rough edges on the venturi side of the new hole. As said...file down about 1/8 inch off the outside, so da nutz fit flat. Since the carbs are soft Alumniminum....I used a scotch brite pad on an angle die grinder...and took my time. ONce done...I slowly turned in each screw till it just made contact. Then...from contact...I turned each one in about 1 1/2 turns. Mine idles just perfect! Remember to warm 'er up first before attempt to adjust the idle.... about 1400 to 1600 RPM is right.

Yeah, Oilsmoke...I'm not nocking Shearer....It's just too bad they don't have a demo set. I think Rockets are so small...at this point, they can afford to do that....in order to pass the word. I really...really like my T5s. But, I got this from a buddy in February...and T5's went on soon after to replace the stockers. As you can imagine...night and day difference (my 450R buddies will atest to that) Nothing wrong with trying something new...though.

Clark boys turned me onto Jeff W. @ FAST Racing for my clutch. Best choice yet. I'm not a fanboy of them, but...untill they steer me wrong, I'll listen to their advice. I've got T5's now...and I've been waiting on Ray to get Rockets in...to test them. Ray is willing to give a free set of Rockets to test, if the user pays shipping. Since I live 20 miles from him, I can pick 'em up locally...and can't wait to test 'em. I'm Not knocking anyone...but, does Shearer offer to let you test their pipes? Personally...I think the Rockets look different...and very nice. However...I pull my plugs in my shee at least two to three times a day...when riding, just to be sure I'm not missing anything. I'm sure all pipes work great for different reasons for different shops for different motor work.... Ford/Chevy/Dodge... Stop all the hating....personal opinions are like assholes. Everyone has one. Make a statement based on what you know, what you've experience...and that's it. If I took a bone stock shee...and raced side by side next to a ported, piped, stroked, bored..etc., shee and beat them...does that give me reason to talk shit about his mods and/or their makers? NO...(but...it does give me a reason to tell that dipshit he/she can't ride... it's all about personal preference...and what works for YOU...not the next person. Kinda like jetting...no one setting works for all...it's your own experience and cirumstance that works for YOU.

A new clutch cable is about 20 bucks.... However...once you replace that, if it still doesn't work, it's maintenance time. You may or may not need new plates. But, since you're gonna need to remove the side cover anyways for adjustments or maintenance...replace it anyways with a new one.