dajogejr

Make sure you don't lose that little steel dowel/pin. Need that to line it back up....only one way off, one way on!!

I've only done this once...and it was easy. However...I didn't pay that much attention to detail, it just went. Someone will be along shortly that has probably done this a ton of times. Also...do you have a Clymers manual? Invaluable...

DO yourself a favor...unless you have a bored/stroked high HP motor, I'd say above 65HP...use 3 stock springs, 3 of the HD springs. My mods are in my sig. I originally put all 6 in...it was pretty tough despite an EZ lever and a brand new, lubed up cable. I put my new shiftstar in last Friday, put 3 and 3 in. DON'T put in 4/2. It'll throw off the balance... Alternate stock/HD springs. Jeff sells the basket and inner/outer hubs. Soon as I get some more loot...I'm gonna get that from him, too. I agree...one helluva guy...he needs to get his ass on the HQ and talk it up!! 7.4 ft. lbs on the springs, and tighten them down in an alternate pattern. I used 7.5 since the SnapOn Tourque wrench had .5 LB increments. I must say, it pulls nice, works like a champ...and didn't wear out my clutch hand/arm after a full day of trails and drags!!

The lever that's resting on it needs to be lifted. You can do this very easily with a screwdriver...there's not a ton of pressure on it. Lift, remove. Reinstall in reverse order. Just put mine in last Friday...was a snap!

Don't take this the wrong way...for I know you didnt' say it. THAT'S THE DUMBEST THING I EVER HEARD... Again, NOT directed at you. You're going to have to lean out your jetting, or...less fuel. For every 1500 to 2000 feet change in elevation you'll have to lean out your Mains 1 jet. You're going to probably have to lean out your air screws, too. I'd say start two main jets leaner. Turn in your air screws .5 to 1 turn. Go from there. By the way...this belongs in the Jetting/Exhaust forum... Here's a great, great guide. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Ditto...for around a 100 bucks or so...+4 and a lightened flywheel is a key, cheap mod that takes hardly any time and is very easy to do. Sure...porting is great, but...you're going to have to send 'em out...etc. Honestly...these change the bike and easily make it more rideable. It's simply fantastic. Contact Boonman...and get the shiftstar mod while you're at it. All the HP in the world isn't going to mean squat if you can't run 'er through the gears...

Yep...don't waste your money on a key that can shear. For less than 45 bucks shipped, you can get an adjustable timing plate from Ricky Stator... SRP needs to define "slight". Does this mean it's progressive...statically higher than stock throughout the RPM range? I'd bet it bumps it one or two degrees near the bottom, and up to 4 degrees at full WOT... If it goes up to 4 degrees, you could probably add one or two degrees with a plate...and be ok.

Man...I was trying to find this thread...thanks PTT!. One word...unbelievable. It almost took the hit out of my T5's, but only because the it revs quicker and hits the pipe quicker. I did everything from drag race 500 Ft...to ride in tight trails, muddy, rutted out, and a small track with a few jumps. I don't know how a lightened flywheel works on other bikes, two stroke, 4 stroke, single cylinder, etc. But...I can tell you this is the mod to have for a shee. I put the timing plate on, a breeze, set it at +4. Put on Boonman's flywheel AND shift star...and it was a totally different bike. Still fast, but I can honestly say it is easier to ride! If you don't have a lightened flywheel, you're kidding yourself. I can't see it being a single disatvantage on a SHEE... Revs quicker for drag, hits the pipe sooner AND smoother for trails. What more can you ask for? Boonman!!

I know Ray was out of Rockets for a while. He lives about 20 miles from me. I've been waiting for him to let me know when the "loaner" set comes in...I want to try 'em out. I'm looking forward to it...just still waiting...

Dammit...Loco...I knew you were going to say that... Yep, in two of the three phone calls I had with him he was quick to point all that out. Might have to get a job with him to pay for some of it... I got a pretty good bonus check coming in pretty soon..so, more shopping for me. Loco...with his clutch kit, I put in 3 stock springs and 3HD. Jeff did say use all 6..but, since I was only going for a day, I tried 3. No problems at all. Once I go the ported/NOSS Head/VForce route, I'll be sure to put all the HDs in. But...for now, my clutch arm thanks me... I was thinking about Gorr porting mine...but, I think I'm just gonna send it down to Jeff at the end of the year to get it all done. He is truly such a great guy, he deserves my business!!

I did manage to hit my basket with a scotch brite die grinder this weekend... It had some "ripples" in it...NOT grooves per say. Just smoothed it out. Took away most of the creep. Hinson soon...but, not quite yet!!

me too... Still loving those T5's...Sandman. Porting and a .010 over kit is gonna go in after this riding season...or, possibly durning it if shee gernades on me... Lots of good porting gurus out there. Eric Gorr and Passion seem to be some of the favorites here.

Hmm...didn't think to check when I just redid my shift star this weekend, sandman.. I just rode all day Saturday...so I must have gotten it right...

Banjo... Lighten the flywheel and advance the timing. Recently made my shee a totally different animal. I was surprised how much easier it was to ride in the trails and keep it on the pipe...it almost removed the well known "Hit" from my T5's... Because it revs faster...the power is there quicker... For less than 100 bucks...you're missing out if you're not already there...

7.4 ft. lbs. of torque on each of those screws...can do it in nuetral, in gear, etc. Whatever is easiest. Use a criss cross pattern. as said...get a clymer manual to adjust the clutch... I'd almost bet that bearing behind the push rod went AWOL...

Whole lot a shakin going on in that right side. if you squeeze the clutch lever and let go a few times, does it go away, get louder, quieter?? Since you said ALL stock, I imagine they are the stock pipes, too. There are two rubber seals on EACH pipe. Check those, make sure there is no hole or crack in any of the rubber...that will make a real nice ticking sound...and you'll probably see a little black oil/gas around the rubber if it's leaking... If not...time for a tear down. Remove the whole side cover and inspect....

Set your air gap between .010 and .015 from the pickup to the two "Nubs" on the flywheel. Too much gap could cause no spark... Next time, in order to help you out better...list what you've "Recently done"....

Does it have the stock TORS on it still? I'd ditch that...if it does. There are 5 things you need to unplug, plus install a idle kit... However..start by checking the coil, etc. I don't know if you can bench test 'em like automotive stuff... Electronics is my weakest point...someone here wll most definately be able to help better...

Nah.. Next mod, in the next month or so..will be a NOSS head. NOSS Head and VForce 2 or 3 reeds, and I'm done for the year. Port and bore job in the off season...

WOW...what a scene. Went for a good wide open blast....revs quicker...seems like it mellowed it out only cause the hit comes sooner...very nice. Between the shift star, flywheel and +4 timing plate...totally woke that bike up. Riding the trails tomorrow, and the guy has a 1/4 mile dirt drag strip all setup... Will report back and let you know about the trail riding of it!!!

HOLY F'N Shit... New Shift Star, +4 Stator timing plate and lightened flywheel. What a HUGE difference.... Special props to boonman for going way out of his way and practically giving the stuff away to me. Shipped on Wednesday...Installed and went for a quick rip just now. WOW!!!

Ah...hell with it. Just got 'er done. Going for a test ride now...everything went back together just perfect... Warmed her up...it's all good. Will report back in a few...

Courtesey of the HQ's own Boonman, my new modded shiftstar should be here via UPS in a couple hours. I have a clymer manual, and I'm very mechanically inclined. Anyone have a few quick tips on putting this new one in? How bout a link or something.... I know I can read the manual...but, sometimes the manual and the real life deal can be a bit different.... I've heard about an hour to an hour and a half for the whole deal...

Pull the plugs out, place the rubber cap on the end, ground out the spark plug strap (the arch looking thing) to the cylinder heads... With the ignition turned on, kick it over once or twice. You should see a little blue spark jump...

Yep...it flat out rips. I keep going richer on the main...and it keeps getting better. I'm going to chop my plugs today, again...and check the base ring on the porcelin... If I'm not 100% dialed in...I'm 95% or better... Thanks again!