dajogejr

Just wanted to be sure. I thought I read somewhere you'd have to richen up the main one or two for timing...but wasn't sure...

I know you put new plugs in...but, did you check for spark? I agree...might need a cleaning. Although...I can't see gas sitting in a carb for two weeks being a big deal, if it was fresh to begin with. The plugs should be a bit wet...but, it should at least fire up with gas poured in the cylinders... I'd check for spark first, fuel next.

Well...I was just about to post a new one...but, I'm going to ask you. Today...at my door, is a boonman special lightened flywheel and modded shiftstar in one box, and a Ricky Stator adjustable plate in the other. I"m gonna go +4 on the timing. Stock ports, carbs and head. All stock. Did you have to rejet for the timing bump...and how much did you go? Thanks much....

About 3 seconds with an air impact.... Seriously...thanks...boys. Pulling mine and replacing it tonight, one less thing I have to look up...

Sheeman is right. You need to do both sides properly... You may think it's expensive now. It will only get more expensive if it's not done right. There are rewards to having a good running twin... There's also a downside...

I'm like a giddy little kid waiting for Santa... This santa is in the big brown truck...though... I could care less if they don't listen...my 450R buddies are going to believe...they're going to believe in the exhaust note from the buisness end of my shee...

left one smokes more probably because the packing is holding in some oil. Regardless...they both should be repacked. Since the previous owner had the bright idea of only replacing one piston, I'd give that whole bike a once over. From grease fittings to tightening bolts, changing fluids to checking some torque specs... I'd most definately repack BOTH silencers and clean out both carbs for sure.

Pull BOTH carbs off. Completely clean out each one. Do ONLY one at a time, because the float bowls are for that side carb. One has a choke circuit jet in it...the other does not. Check your float height, make sure there's no dirt/debris in the needle/seat area. Your float height should be at 21cm from the metal gasket surface, bottom of the carb. Check out the Jetting/Exhaust forum for quite a few complete how to's.

I'd flatten the right side tires to compensate for it.

True enough...to each is own for sure. However, I think we all can agree Ricky S. makes good quality stuff and is a helluva good guy...so...I'm not worried about his stuff!!

If it were a high stress piece or show piece...I'd agree 100%. However...the plate just sits there, and it's not under much load.. 15 bucks isn't much of a deal..but I've seen the polished Billet plates go upwards of 79 bucks... Just not worth it IMO.

Yep...definately not plastic. I don't know why you'd ever buy a billet one unless you have more money than sense...or, had a clear lexan type side cover to show it off... Be like putting Chrome Pistons it...what's the point?

Boonman sent mine, and I'll have it put on tomorrow. Saturday I'm going to some private propery to ride with a LARGE group...and there's trails, sand, mud and a lot of drag racing. I've always ridden stock flywheel banshees. Boonman is such a good guy period...he's gone way above and beyond the call of duty to help me out. I'll let you all know how it works out for all the riding situations above when I get back. Aside from just the flywheel, I"m puttingon a stator adj plate to go +4 and a Boonman special Shiftstar... The only bad part is going to be my buddy on his 450R cryin...

Did you check comp on both cylinders? 120 on both? IF they're both the same...I'd say the head is tight and sealed. I can see one with the ORing not sealed right, but not two with the same compression... YOu warm it up and then check it?

Tough question to answer... I don't think anyone makes carbon fiber reed replacements for the stock cage. The only ones I know of are for the VForce aftermarket cage. it's a combo of reed material and the cage design itself that make the VForce a winner...not solely one or the other.

If it won't idle...how do you know the idle screws are set fine? After all...the slides rest on the idle screws...don't they?

Unplug the box. Have you tried turning the screws in, as well?

That being said...sounds like a bad tester as mentioned. If it was @ 100PSI at that elevation, it'd be a mutha to start... 87 Octane in a shee..c'mon. I put better than that in my lawnmower...

Good find, Edge. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...but...can you use the stock throttle cable with the TORS removed? When I did mine, I bought Motion Pro's kit AND twist throttle, which...of course came with carb caps and a cable. Which...brings me to my next point. Can you use the stock carb caps?

No, you need a TORS removal kit. It involveds drilling holes in your carbs, tapping that hole, and installing idle screws. Motion Pro carries the kit, as does Vitos and a few others. It's about an hour process or so...give or take. Do a search here on TORS...and you'll get a ton of info. Here's one from Vito's @ Magic Racing: http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=731&catid=[catid]

25's are stock. They go up in 2.5 sizes... MOST of the time, with air filtration and pipes...a 27.5 is fine. The stock pilot circuit on shees flow a lot of fuel. 27.5 pilot and anywhere from 1.0 to 2.5 turns out on the air screw. Warm it up, set them to 1.0 out...go from there. Once you adjust them, let the bike idle for 20 to 30 seconds to let the change "Take Effect"... I've read that FMF pipes like a fat pilot...so, 30 might be the key. Do some searching around here and get the idea, you're not off by far..either way. Are your carbs nice and clean, float heights set correctly, and the choke tube seated and not leaking..(Rubber line between carbs) If your carbs are AOK...I'd check reeds and intake area...although, if it's ripping upper R's...they're probably ok... Try the old choke trick too. from idle, pull the choke out 1/2 way. If it runs better, your pilot/air screws are too lean. If it runs worse, you're rich.... I just got done with the whole rigamorole on my shee... Worth it, and you'll learn a valuable lesson!!!

There is a tool made to remove the flywheel. You'll need that. You can ebay search for it, usually around 20 bucks. I checked my local stealership, and they want 60 bucks for it, and have to order it. DO NOT use a jaw/arm type puller. It will damage the flywheel.

From what I read here...and since I never rode a Shearer'd shee...they are more of a drag pipe. Same with CPI... Rockets are considered a drag pipe, but many of the loyal following here will say they are a great all around pipe. Since I have T5's on mine, I can tell you they are a great all around pipe, too. They hit nice, and pull for a while, and I love their look and killer sound. More will chime in here shortly...I guarentee.

I'm planning on riding some trails this year with my bud's and their 450's. Of course, DNR will be there. So...I have two options. I'm looking at the Toomey Hush kit w/ Spark arrestors or just the plain ol Jane spark arrestors on their own. In your experiences, which is a better choice for T5's... 189.99 is steep for the hush and SA. However, SA's only are 30 bucks cheaper... What do you think?

You might just start a pipe war here. SSTs are great pipes. However, I love my Toomey T5's. They really woke mine up. However...I've heard great about Rockets, too. I'm waiting on Ray to get a set of "loaner" rockets in, so I can test them out, too. CPI, Shearer, Toomey or Rockets are all good choices... When you go for more of a mid to top pipe, you may loose a little bottom. That's where other mods play a factor, like timing, Lightened flywheel, a better head (smaller domes for more compression) and reed cages come into play... Could always get your shee ported. That's the biggest kicker right there, short of bore and stroke kits...