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dajogejr

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Everything posted by dajogejr

  1. I'd adjust the timing, anyways... An adjustable stator plate from Rickystator.com is 35 bucks plus shipping. Should have mine on Friday, I'm planning on going a very, very mild +4 and be happy.
  2. Ah...that's what I was missing... I'm not knocking you...so don't take it this way when I say this. But...have you had it calibrated or tested your shee elsewhere? Like I said...don't take that the wrong way. I'm just asking... Hell yeah...nothing better than a girl on a ripping shee!! Ok, well...maybe a girl on a ripping shee roosting a four stroke...
  3. Stock reeds, T5 Pipes and a port job to 71HP? I'd like to see a dyno sheet on that. NOTHING else but T5's and a port job? 71HP is attainable....but I think you'd need more than a simple port jobs and pipes... From what I've read, reeds, a good port job and pipes will put you more like in the 55 to 60HP range. Again, I'm not saying your wrong...or maybe I'm missing a mod or two...but that's pretty high based on the two mods you stated...
  4. Have to? Nope. With the extra cc's and money you're putting into it...it sure would be a waste not to... Be almost the same as getting a stroker and bore kit, and leaving the stock rear tires on. Ok...well...almost, but you get the point.
  5. Do you have the prodesign flow control, as he does, too? I've got boyesen in my stock cages, as well...
  6. I'd like to know the reason you can't use Boyesen reeds in your stock cages...for that work. I'm not saying they're wrong, I'd just like to know the reason. VForce reeds will only work in their cages. I've heard good things about getting stock reed cages ported and using aftermarket reeds...but, in the end, you can get VForce 2 cages and reeds shipped for 179.99. I can't imagine porting a stock reed cage and a set of new reeds to be a whole bunch cheaper than that...and, VForce are the way to go!
  7. I'd see how much someone reputable can bore you stock carbs out to 28mm. I'm sure someone on these boards can either reccommend a good tuner...or might even do it themself. That should fix your itch for a while...and be much, much easier on the wallet...
  8. Maxima Super M here...ran it in my CR 250's (94 and 97) forever...motors always ran strong and clean. Run it in my shee now... 32:1. My bud has these handgaurds on his 450R...bout the only thing good about that bike, other than he always finds himself behind me... http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=714&catid=[catid] You have to buy the gaurds and the mount brackets....but, they're very...very roomy, unlike the Acerbis I've always seen.
  9. Mine used to spit up just a bit. I put the tank up front, just like the post said. Haven't changed anything else. The level in the bottle hasn't budged an inch... I used to think it was overheating...and that was when it was about 50 degrees out... Glad I found that post...much happier now. Of course, you still want to check compression, etc., to make sure your head gasket, etc., isn't blown...but...this bottle relocation is a great little trick!!
  10. Magic Racing...all day long. http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=135&catid=133
  11. PM'd ya back with the details...my pleasure.
  12. Sred...switch to decaf for Monday mornings...will ya?
  13. Yep yep...I have the exact one you need. If you let me know by 10PM tonight...I"ll bring it with me to work tomorrow and fed ex it overnight...as long as you don't mind the 5 or 6 bucks for shipping...estimated...
  14. Mine lurches just a tad If I give it more than 1/2 throttle or so... I just deal with it...it's a brand new clutch and it's adjusted properly... It's meant to go fast..anyways...
  15. Could always get the Toomey 2 into 1 Foam Filter with outerwear...too. I have it...but can't use it since my T5 Stinger melted it ever so slightly on one side. Have to move and secure that better... It's a nice setup, though...and sits up high under the seat...
  16. Helluva good idea...be able to see how dirty it is without taking the seat off...Might have to give her a whirl....thanks!! Yes...Josh, I'd bet you have to rejet. Probably a size or two leaner on the main, and possibly adjust the airscrew....
  17. Keep the box, get a good pro flo design as said...and use that outerwear. It helps with sand and dust big time. I bought mine with pods on it...wish I still had the air box though. Might fab one up out of aluminum, one day!! Sucks having to be extra careful around puddles, mud, etc....
  18. Just went through this. This is a dumb question, but you did throw out the rubber o-ring cushions that come stock, right? Tusk Clutch? Lucky you...I looked for over a month while RMATV was Out of Stock. I made the right choice, though...got a homemade street bike setup from F.A.S.T. Racing...me very happy. Ok...here goes. Tighten down three of the 6 Clutch Springs to get this adjusted right. Loosen the locknut on the pushrod shaft. With your hand, push the clutch arm and the arrow on the case and the arm should line up. If you can't get it perfect, the arm should be a HAIR to the outside...or, towards you as you're looking at it. When you get it lined up...tighten it down and check again. Before you go through all that...though. take time to clean the rod and ball bearing, an put a dab or two of grease on 'em. Be sure your clutch basket and pressue plate are up to snuff. Was your basket all grooved up on the fingers? No adjustment is going to solve the lurching... Check for wear... So...pretty much everything Boonman said...with an extra tip or two...
  19. If Boonman can't find it, I know exactly where mine is. If he can't, let me know. As long as you pay the Fed Ex Priority shipping, I'll have it out same day priority overnight or however you'd like. If you can't find the tap locally...it's not worth doing 1/2 ass....I've got the kit from Motion Pro...heck, I'll even send you the drill bit too, just in case. let me know if Boonman can't get it to you...I'll be happy to oblige. PM me on however I can help.
  20. I'm looking into getting a set of Rockets to test very soon. How much changing in the jetting did you have to do? Since you had the T5s, exactly what I do now...one more question... How hard is it, REALLY...to change the plugs. My front fenders are alreay gone with the wind. I'm a freak about checking my plugs after every few rides or so....
  21. Ride for a few minutes. If it's still white...it's lean. Richen it up a bit...
  22. What jets are in there now? How do you know it's running rich...did you check old plugs, or...did you buy brand new ones, warm it up, put the new plugs in and take a wide open run? Old plugs don't help...especially if it's been ridden a few times, idled, etc. Jetting is pretty easy... Check the sticky at the top of the forum for a great, print out for reference article. A little rich is ok....very rich is not. Better to be a tad rich than lean... I can't say those will be your exact jets...I'm just saying start on the rich side, and work your way down. I've never used FMFs. They like a rich Pilot...from what I've only read here. I'm sure a 27.5 would be fine to start...you MIGHT have to bump to a 30....maybe. I'd start at 310. See how it goes from there. If it bogs at WOT, it's rich. POPS...lean.
  23. I should add...though...Linc...I have Toomey/Dyno Jet needles. They are considerably longer than stock needles. I'm thinking the Mains don't come on till later, do to the increased length.... I know that factors into the equasion. However...I plan on testing some rockets...and I've read I'm going to have to richen it up even MORE with those...
  24. Well...I've been tuning on the jetting since I've gotten it.(Mid-February) I'm less than 1000ft. I bought it with 30 pilots and 250 main, stock pipes and K&N pods. Since then...bumped to 27.5 Pilots, T5's and 290 Mains. Yep, too lean. I'm at 310s now. And all I've been doing 90% of the rides I've taken are WOT Drags for about 250 yards or so. My plugs are perfect...light chocolate brown. I can chop 'em if you'd like... Just goes to show you...no two bikes are going to be jetted the same. Always going to be different...but we can find a good starting point...
  25. If it's running that good on top and bottom, I don't think it's too much carb on there. My T5's pull like the dickens from mid to top...I"m searching for a bit more bottom now. Ok...not searching, really...trying to figure out how to "finance" it... Have you thought about warming her up, put in fresh plugs, and hold it 1/2 way open for a few minutes. Try a plug check. Try the old choke trick. Ride at half thottle...pull the choke 1/2 way out...see if it's better or worse. Better, richen up your needle and possibly richen your screws a hair. Worse...lean the needle...and same with air screws. You can try a different needle...or try moving the clip up or down. Remember, moving the clip towards the blunt/flat end leans it...toward the tapered needle richens it. I wouldn't mess the air screws too much, maybe 1/4 turn at a time, especially since it starts and idles so nicely...
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