dajogejr

Love my XCR's. Nice to have 2 extra ply for trail riding...don't even notice the slight weight difference. Got 'em all around, front and rear. They're not great for hard, hard pack...but, then again neither is the shee powerband... For softer stuff, trails...they're very nice!!

While the gas tank is still low....empty it out and swish some gas to clean it out. I'd also remove the petcock and check the strainer thingy for debris. Clean it while you're at it. And...as said, completely disasemble the carbs and clean 'em out. I'd even get a small piece of wire and clean the pilot circuit out, etc. Check your float height, while you're at it, and don't mix the float bowls...

First, check your service manual. Then, have a qualified machine shop check your piston clearance, ring end gap, and cylinder bore. See what specs are ok, which are not...

Nope....bone stock bore, factory pistons, factory head, everything. I'm going to be sending the head out...but as of right now, a cylinder or head nut has never been even touched since brand new in 96.

Thanks for the numbers, boys... It is running strong as can be. I'm sending the head off to boonman for a milling, and by the end of summera fresh bore/piston job and porting. Like I said, no problems...just wanted a reference...

1 and a 1/2 is fine. Your range is .5 to 2.5 turns out from seated.

I know I could look in the clymers...but, I'm asking here instead. Just got done putting a whipping on my buddies 450R...(had to get that in there) He bought a brand new Snap On Motorcycle compression tester. I got the first use. We rode...dragged, brought 'em home. It might have cooled down for about 15 minutes at most. Pulled each plug, Light chocolate... MMMM... Pinned the throttle...110 PSI in each cylinder exactly. I have a bone stock, never opened 96 shee. What should the stock PSI be at? Oh, I'm less than 1000ft in elevation, too.

Hey...the guys I ride with know...in tight and very twisty, they're gonna hand it to me. But...the trails I just rode last week, best ever, were a car and a half wide, a little sandy and 4th to 5th gear straights and turns. No problems there. I make no mistake about a 450R being a better trail quad, short of a new frame, arms, etc., for a shee!!!

Ditto...Sred. Exactly what my buddies are saying. They both have the HRC cam/kit, and they're talking about getting the whole deal, pipe, cam and piston from this guy. Told them go ahead...I'll just port and rip 'em both...

You sure about those numbers? Does it have a big bore kit in it? Is it .75mm or is it 75mm? Reason I ask is .100 over is only a 66.50mm pistion. .75mm might be right if it's been rebuilt, and it only needed a .75mm bigger piston. Check here, it will give you the metric and english measurements for stock to .100 over piston kits for shees... http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=135&catid=133

Hurt it? No...but on a stock motor you'd be wasting your money. once you start bumping up the compression and advancing the timing, then race gas is the ticket... Unless you like the smell of burnt race gas...gives me a woody!! I'd say about 280 or so should be right. Maybe even 270 with your elevation and a stock air filter/box setup. Welcome to the two stroke world...go whip up on some four strokes soon...

I have three 450R riding buddies, and they are all hot and bothered by the Pulse Charger. I think the guy is local here in MI... From what I've read...they are the shit for 4 strokes. 80HP? I'd like to see what other mods he has done other than the pipes. We all know 80HP can be had from a Shee...but, it's gonna be a whole lot more than pipes...for sure. Send some pikkis...the link above doesn't work...

They supposedly cut down or eliminate stray sparks from your exhaust, to stop forest fires, etc. from happening. Although...not a single forest fire in the US has ever been linked to a stray spark from an ATV or otherwise....

Aww...c'mon...you know you miss your toomey's...

Got the boon tune meself, minus the milled head (coming soon...$$) Love my T5s now... I also put a stator timing bracket on...good 35 spent there. Now, I'm going to go to a 15 tooth front, and be done for a while. Can't go wrong with the T5's... But, I'm going to one day test out the Rockets...and I can't wait to see what they do...

You're slipping....Loco... Don't forget to inspect your inner/outer hubs and your clutch basket, too when you have it off. I'm a FAST clutch fan now...for 5 bucks more than a barnett or ebc clutch, I know I got a great deal. This is my suggestion...unless you have a ported, piped screaming (60HP plus) motor, I'd put 3 stock springs in, 3 HD springs in. FAST kit comes w/ 6 HD springs. Even with a brand new clutch cable and EZ Lever...it was a little much for my piped shee below. 3/3 was the perfect mix. Once I get mine freshened up on top and ported, I'll go back to 6HD springs....

Noleen was in all it's glory in early 90's for supercross/motocross. Larry "Big Bird" Ward was their main guy...if you know anything about motocross/supercross. He finished in front of many of the factory riders of that era, Bradshaw, Stanton, Johnson, Bayle, Ward...etc. for many races. They knew their stuff, for bikes. Don't know how well they're up to date on our beloved shee...though. They do look nice...but, I'd pass for a manufacturer that is more well known...there's still a ton of good choices.

Yep...you pretty much hit the nail on the head. However, you should be fine with the 8 range NGK plug, unless you alochol the bike, or dune excessively... 8 should be fine.

Absolutely... Boonman just did mine, and while you're at it...get his modded shift star. Between the lightened flywheel, shiftstar and a Ricky Stator Timing plate, your shee will be much, much different. It will get "on the pipe" quicker and be much, much easier to trail ride. He's a helluva guy to deal with for sure. I'm gonna have him mill my cylinder head next....

Easy to say...but hard to practice indeed..

I hear ya. I bought the whole kit from Magic for 30 bucks...normally 50 or 60. I would take them out and put the stockers back in...but, it runs just fine with those needles...After getting it with a thumb, putting on a twist, putting in new needles, and going back to a thumb...I've had the tops off all I can stand so far. If I couldn't get her dialed, I'd switch. They're running like a champ...so I'm gonna leave. You're right though...no need to do it just to do it!!

No problem. I just bought mine in February, off a good friend. Jetting was way, way off. I just went through the whole setup of jetting my stock carbs. I also have a very similar setup as yours. I'm planning on having boonman mill my head, much much cheaper than a NOSS head for now. Sure...I'll get one soon...but, other things to buy for now!! 25 is the stock pilot. They go up by 2.5. So, 27.5 is the next size up. Honestly, my air screws are at about 2 to 2.5 turns out right now. I'm going to put the stock pilots back in, and try 1 out on the screws. When I first started jetting, it was consierably colder out...so, that might have been what I needed. Now that it's warm, I have 330 mains and 27.5 pilots. It was a tad rich this last weekend, in 70 degree weather. I'm going to bump down to 320 mains and TRY a 25 pilot again... It looks like you have a K&N inside the airbox, no? If so...these numbers are a little rich for you... I have either K&N Pod filters or the Toomey 2:1 foam filter that I run, no airbox. Good luck!! I'd get about 4 sets of plugs, just so you can get 'er dialed in!!

Are you using Toomey's jet kit? If so, it's the dynojet needle...longer than stock. Put the clip in the 4th position, or...4th groove down from the blunt end. The dynojet needles have 6 grooves. The stock needles have 5. If it's the stock needle, leave it in the middle. Correct, 300 main, 27.5 pilot. I'd turn the screws out 1.5 turns out from fully seated, go from there. I have stock reed cages with boyesen reeds... I don't know what VForce reeds do to the needle...so, might want to read up on that.

I give up... Go to the hardware store...get some fence post, cut the ends and just bend that around the foot pegs. Then you'll have drag pipes. Everyone here is telling you to leave the silencers the way they are, you're not listening. I find it very hard to believe that if you ride in an area that needs spark arrestors, they don't have some kind of decibel limit, as well... Spend 30 bucks, get the repack kit from Toomey...and be done with it. I'd bet you could get at least 2 years out of the packing, if you rode just about every weekend...If you can't afford 30 bucks every two years for your shee...get a 4 stroke.

The only thing you'd be gaining is decibels. Get a drag pipe and do it right...they're designed to do without the silencer...