dajogejr

Boontune is three things. Lighten flywheel, Milled head and a shiftstar mod. I've got the flywheel and shiftstar mod. I've dragged and trail rode with the lightened flywheel, I'm no spring chicken at 245 lbs myself, 6 foot. My buddies that ride 450R's have ridden mine before the boon tune, and they can't believe how "four stroke" like power it has now... It's the ticket, I'll tell you. I can't wait to get ported so I can pull a 15/41 gear....don't know if it'll pull that the way I want it to now. You won't be dissapointed. Word of caution, get the right flywheel puller. NEVER use the jaw type on the shee....you need the screw on type. To advance timing for free...you have to machine or "slot" your stock timing plate. Unless you're really crafty, or just have too much time on your hands, save your troubles. Go to www.rickystator.com and get their adjustable timing plate. It's 35.00 plus shipping, and has a range from +10 to -10. +4 and a lightened flywheel will TOTALLY wake up your shee...

I'm confused... are you looking for a new carb so you don't have to rebuild as often? If so...I'd look further to get to the real problem.... If you're looking for a single carb setup for ease of jetting, ease of use, etc., then...it'd be a good idea. Depending on what you want to do...a single carb might not give you the performance you're looking for. They're great for low end, trails, etc. But, if you plan on duning, drag racing...twins are better. If you're rebuilding that often, I"m thinking either it's not running right in the first place, or you're beating on it in dunes or racing...or both...

If you used a jaw type, it's bent. The correct tool is only like 10 to 20 bucks on ebay...you just learned a quick, hard lesson. Contact Boonman. He has used flywheels laying around ready to be lightened and shippped out. I'd also get his shiftstar mod while you're at it... He's beyond reasonable, and a great all around guy to deal with.

Sure they move a bit. They're rubber mounted in the front by the hangers, they're held on by springs at the jug. I had to make new steel brackets for mine...but, no worries. As long as they don't leak...you're good to go.

My thoughts on a four stroke are rich and the extra fuel was burning up in the pipe. He had 150 and 146 mains. (Aftermarket jet kit) I stepped it down to 142 and 138, and it's running good. No popping, no overheating, nice plug color. Made two plug runs. The inside of the silencer was coated in black soot.... It seems to be running fine now...so, we'll cross our fingers tomorrow... Honestly...this bike is pretty beat up, he's going to rebuild it soon, big bore kit, etc., so...it only has to last a few rides...

Ya know...Jeff, that's what I thought...but I thought someone else corrected me and said they were stock steels. See...Jeff, your presence is already working...

I hang my head...as I must come to the HQ with a 4 stroke jetting question . Luckily...it's not my bike, but a buddies that I need to help get "right" so we can ride tomorrow. He's got an 03 raptor with ONLY a Yosh full exhaust and K&N. Way rich now...as his pipe glows red. I read up a bit, and saw a good tip about one of the carbs needing the bigger main jet...weird to a fellow shee owner. Anybody have a good crash course... I assume these are Kehins on there, and do they follow the same scheme as Mikuni's? (Larger number, larger jet)... I just want to get him running good for tomorrow....

1 bump...too.

1 bump...only.

Better to rubuild it now, when it still runs then to try it when it locks up/gernades on you...that's for sure. Do yourself a favor...get the pistons first, or get it bored by a shop that sells 'em. Any good machine shop will want the pistons to match the bore to. While you've got down time, clean the carbs up...too, just to make sure they're both flowing properly, and sync 'em up good! Have fun...I'm heading to your future soon...but, I'm gonna port her at the same time!!

Depending on how/where you ride, how much you ride...and how bad you abuse the clutch, stocker should last two years. Unless you've got it modded pretty well, or ride alot/ride the piss out of it. Was it working fine before the shift star installation? That's your tell tale, right there.

You can count on it...I'm trying to plan 2 trips there. Heading to Standish this weekend, Sunday...to Ride at Dusty D's unless it's a downpour!!

Unless they're flat or looked real burned up...no. Call Jeff @ F.A.S.T Racing. He has a homegrown set he makes. It's Stock Steels, FZR600 street bike fiber plates, and 6 Barnett HD clutch springs. He can also give you a few tips on what to look for, how to adjust it, etc. He's a great guy, and will offer mounds of help. Jeff @ FAST: 785-364-5325 Sandstar is right, however....make sure everything was put back together correctly and adjusted correctly. If it ran just fine before the tear down, a shift star won't make it worse, if it was installed correctly....

I belive 10 to 15% difference in the cylinders calls for a rebuild. You're due. Just checked mine...110 in each, on the nose. Gonna wait a bit longer...season's here!!

Ditto...BelRay Gearsaver 80W.

Based on that statement, get a Clymers manual and a tourque wrench. It's only 7.4 Ft/Lbs of tourque on those babies. Adjust your clutch arm to the specs in the manner the manual says. Since you're going to have it all apart, replace the fibers, steel and springs. Look at your basket and hubs for wear, as well.

I agree...what a waste. Spend that extra 40 on an extra air filter or premix. IF the stator plate was a high stress piece of equipment, then...fine. If I had a duner with clear/acrylic side cases, fine. But, it's just a plate, that goes unseen, and sits. As long as it's not made of 1/8 inch sheet metal, it'll be just fine. Plus, if Ricky Stator makes it, you know it's good to go. His stuff is top notch. That billet plate is about as much waste as a stainless, billet silencer baffle....

Glad to hear it's screaming again. I've heard more bad then good about the toomey/dynojet needles, after I installed them...of course. I've had no issues with them, mine is dialed in...and plugs look beautiful!!!

I agree. I origingally had all 6HD in there. My arm was Popeye's...and I have a brand new cable and EZ perch. Went to 3/3 with my bolt on mods, and much easier. I'm going with's Jeff's porting, hopefully soon....and then right after his basket setup... By then, I"m sure it's going to need the basket/hubs AND 6HD springs. I can't wait to see the look on my buddies who ride their 450Rs...the one has NEVER ridden a ported shee.... Jeff...I seemed to have lost 2 of the left over 3 HD springs (which I took out). I'm gonna get a new set of 6HD once I have you set up my cylinders anyways... Thanks again for all you do...Jeff...

I put three of my old springs back in...no issues at all. Just rotate the pattern, should you do it. 1 HD, 1 Stock, and so on around the wheel. Just be careful putting it back together. Easy to snap those bolts... tighten 'em in a criscross pattern like you'd tighten lugnuts on your vehicle. 7.4 Ft./ lbs of tourque is all that's needed.

Easily...cause those not in the know think they are getting the best deal from Ebay... Sick, ain't it. That's a great reason for these forums. One member helping another out... to the HQ

I'd just get it from Ricky Stator...Ebay is offering no deals....and you won't have to wait and/or haggle. It's 35.00 all day long, plus shipping. http://search.ebay.com/banshee-timing-plat...QfkrZ1QQfromZR8 I would put the head on...but wait for the reeds if you don't have time to play with the brass.

I'd get about 6 to 10 small tupperware or coolwhip jars. Eat the cool whip first, of course...it does NOT make a good lubricant... With some masking tape, make notes of what came off, from where, etc. If you have 2 or 3 bolts/nuts leftover, that's perfect. Lighter weight means a faster shee... Seriously...my buddy had the motor out of my shee for almost 5 years. If he didn't label everything that way, he might've been hosed. (He was the previous owner..BTW, it wouldn't have been apart for 5 years if I owned it... )

Yeah baby...good to hear. If you're gonna go that much bump and timing, it'd be a good idea into having the crank trued and welded...for reliability. Other than that....squeeze that premix baby!!

As in a Toomey Hush kit? Thought they only made that for the T5 round silencers... Post a pic when you get done. Agreed, take off the silencers first, much easier to work on. Loosen the bolts, and...I like using a BFH and a small cut 2X4...not as likely to bend/damage the pipe or scratch it.... Also...a propane torch to heat it up just a LITTLE bit. Propane doesn't get hot enough to discolor unless it's left on for too long...just a little brushing of heat all the way around.