dajogejr

Yeah, I agree with Toomey... I put T5's on my stocker, already had PODs. The motor felt like it revved faster and stronger, but I was actually going just as fast if not a hair slower. Then, I put holeshot XCR tires on front and rear...(we were riding in a part grass, part dirt field then) And what a difference. I know this is a little off topic...but, it's another example. I took my cub out in a field with some friends, 6 over arm and the same holeshot rears. My buddy rode it, not impressed...etc. Then...went to the dunes and I had my hauler 10 rows on. WHOLE new world, needless to say... Tires are everything!!

I got a 1-5 for a couple reasons. It gives you a better variety of gearing to run, 1st gear can actually be used. Also, 1st gear is a lot stronger than 2nd gear...so, for launching...it should last longer. I think I'm gonna run 16/42 on mine, leaving in 1st gear. I left gearing stock 14/42 and always launched in 2nd... I also got neutral down and 6th gear removed.

They are critical for tuning alky in, due to the amount that must flow. However, they work for gas just fine. I got a set of Dave Moore Power jets, a little pricey...but a better design I feel. Yes, they sure work for gas....

What were the compression readings?

air screws do NOT sync your carbs, the hex brass adapters on top of the carb caps do... You need to do two adjustments. One is idle, to make sure they are the same. Then, give it 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and measure the vacuum with the tool jbooker showed you. That thing works, period. Use the brass adjusters to make sure they're both even... then you're set....

Actually, he'd be going down in size on the rear to get more top end. If he went bigger up front and out back, it's be counteracting each other....

Speed seems improved...we'll see when it's all said and done. A couple of guys over on the website forum with concerns, Lee...I tried to add to the post to look over in this thread, but...was unable to add a post....

Jeff is @ FAST. He has them cut elsewhere...not sure exactly where. I got a ton of work going on this time around...so, it'll probably be at least another month before I can give a ride report....

Ditto here. Wednesday...but, waiting for the ice to freeze and get thick enough to ride on. I'm giddy as a kid at Christmas!!!

This is gonna sound dumb, but hear me out. Do you know what a powerjet is? Alky drag guys have to run 'em...but, they work for gas too. I'd jet that bike for 9500 feet, get it spot on. get powerjets installed on the carbs... (they are like an externally adjustable main jet...no need to remove the float bowl.) Then...just open up the power jet to feed more fuel as you go lower in elevation. If you're going to ride both places freequently, it beats taking your carbs apart all the time to change mains.... You'll need to go about 3 to 5 larger on the mains when you go down in elevation that far. Powerjets accomodate about 10 sizes in mains, roughly. Then all you gotta do is check your plugs...make sure you're not too lean!

If you get a 421 cub and don't get a dunable or standard override, you're going to be wasting that motor.... I had a perfectly adjusted shifter, good clutch, newer fluid and the shiftstar modded. With all that HP, it don't like to shift, period. It's no fun rocketing out...then having to slow down or let off for a WHILE only to grab the next gear....and it seems the more my wheels spun, the WORSE it shifted!

My suggestion to use a thin skim coat of hit temp RTV, too.... both sides of both gaskets. THIN SKIM COAT....

Yep... Little known fact, but Jeremy McGrath used a 93 frame from 93 to 96....then jumped to Suzi is 97....

I've heard of quite a few of the 200W stators taking a dump. That being said, I got a new stock W stator on mine from RS...no issues whatsoever. For I think 115 you can get a new RS coil. For 30 bucks more, you can get a Nology w/ hotwires. It was an easy choice for me....

Check the fluid and level. Get a clymers, and check the adjustment on the clutch...too. If the adjustment is off, or too tight, it won't engage properly...high RPMs will expose this quickly.

Actually....you're taking the whole clutch cover off. You have to remove the plastic stocker, and it has a c Clip holding the drive gear on... So, pickup a clutch side cover gasket. good idea to get 2 quarts of tranny oil, too. You'll need about 1.5 quarts when done.

Matt... Do you still have the rear brake rotor? Is it solid or drilled? Straight? How much shipped to 48082 if so? Will paypal now if price is right...

Sorry to sound like a dick...but, he offered to send you the crossover tube and shipping costs back, didn't he? And you could've bought a boost bottle off just about anyone, shit, I gave mine away for the cost of shipping a few months back cause they don't do anything for you (no, not getting into a debate, just stating facts)... Take the crossover tube, take the shipping money back...and chalk it up as an experience....

97 was the first year...and they sucked for turning. Straight line they were stable as all hell, and the motor flat out ripped. But, turning was a joke. One lap they stuck to the rut like glue, the next you couldn't keep it in a run to save your life. I had two brand new CRs in 97...loved 'em. I paid 'em off in '02, lost my job...and sold 'em. For quite a few years, everyone said the 97 motor was the bomb, frame sucked...but, is has gotten better. If you want a supercross type mount, 93 was still the best handling bike.... Those new 450s are fast as all get off now, though....

Hey Lee... Private messages still not working... This is the error: Fatal error: Call to a member function on a non-object in /home/httpd/vhosts/bansheehq.com/httpdocs/forums/sources/components_ucp/blog.php on line 59

I've got one as well, Braxton. Used one season, seen some dune and drag time on my cub.... It's for a 6 over...so, cut some links buddy. I believe I have two master links for it. Yours if you want it...could definitely use a cleaning, too...but, you can have it for shipping for hooking my boy up on the YFZ....

http://www.magicracing.com/Mikuni-Small-Pi...Jet_p_0-88.html You'll get 'em quick, they're in MI. Or, www.carbparts.com www.sudco.com Quit being a cheap arse...will ya?

Check your compression....might be getting low on that...worn engines don't start quite as nice in the cold... In that temp you should have to pull the choke. Might want to turn in your air screws...or bump that pilot up. FMFs are notorious for liking a fatter pilot.

It's gonna cost you to tune it in, but I'd be interested to see where you end up. Keeping in mind...advancing it too much could mean the need for race gas. You'll need about a Franklin for the software and cable, then prolly another hundo or so for dyno time. I'm going to have mine done up when my bike is ready again. I'm going to have an aggressive curve tuned for drag racing only, then a more moderate curve for bouncing around the dunes. Should be fun!!! By the way...if it took 6 to 8 kicks to start it before, you're either off on the jetting...or the top end is starting to get a bit worn. I'd do a compression test for sanity/safety sake, then tune that jetting in....

With a stock motor and just pipes, I'd go one up on the front and leave it until you get some real motor work done. 1 up front is actually closer to 2.5 on back.... Another few things to add into the equation... What kind of surface, what kind of tires? size of tires? From a dead start, rolling start, etc? Length of race? The more top end you gear it for, generally the longer it will take to get there. And....you need to have the motor to pull it!