dajogejr

Never change your fuel/oil ratio due to your riding locale. Find one, stick to it. Changing premix ratio can and will change your jetting...

Yep, beat me to it. We use a 55 to 60 pilot on ALKY.... I had the same motor, same carbs, Shearer/RDZ inframes. With 48 pilots and 150 mains, it ripped. The cubs seem to favor a small pilot but good size mains. I also used the CEL needle, middle clip. Yeah, you gotta be on the pipe for a cub to be fun, and they suck gas big time...

I was glad to see MacDonald win...and, disappointed to see Forrest Gump lose. I think they stopped the liddel/Bitch fight too early, Iceman was reigning blows down, but...80 % were being blocked or brushed off, not like Forrest's loss. But, I think the iceman would've won, either way....I will say as much as I can't stand Tito, he took his loss like a man. Bring on Cro Cop and Rampage!!

I read this...but parsed the rest of the thread...sorry boys.... 2 hours and counting. :beer: I think the

Where are you guys getting Cro-Cop is going to fight tonight, as of right now, 2 hours before the start, he's not on the ticket... I'd rather watch him fight than just about anyone else on the ticket... http://www.ufc.com/index.cfm?fa=EventDetai...ard&eid=326

If he doesn't have higher compression and/or a timing advance, mixing race gas with pump gas will not offer any performance increase...in fact, it may actually hurt performance. You only need enough octane to where the bike does not detonate...higher octane gas burns slower (which...it's designed for hotter running bikes due to compression and timing) so it doesn't "Detonate" or ping the motor. additives are a total waste of time... Alky...on the other hand...

Unfortunately...with only a 6 or 9 paddle design on the brats...they are limiting themselves to duners...pretty much. Most high HP engines, long swingers, etc., are gonna need more than 9 rows. badassbanshee479 used them at Idaho, I think...and said they were fantastic, and he normally ran 11 row haulers. It really depends on a TON of variables. Sand type/density/moisture, gearing, air pressure...etc.

LIONS.... (Sorry...I'm in a canny mood this morning...figured you all could use the laugh...) :laugh:

Sorry...is that another question?? LOL... Sorry I'm late to this party folks...but I fully agree with the above. I do let my temper get the best of me on an occasion or two...but, I try to help out JUST like everyone else... There are simply too many names out there...this could easily be as long as that DaVinci code thread thanking all the members. I know I've probably learned far more than I could've helped from members on this site. Jeffro...I HAD to call you and leave you a message last night when my buddy told me that joke..."It is much funnier with "sodas" ...." SO....here goes... Did you all hear that Ellen DeGeneres drowned recently? (Scroll Down....) They found her face down in Ricky Lake....

Thank you....perfect answer...

A little rich, but definitely safe...and, as it gets colder it will lean it out a hair...

I'd get a dyna over a SRP. Yeah, I know it's 2 1/2 times the price, but it's worth it vs. the SRP. I don't care for the claim it "boosts your redline"...by 1000 RPM. An ignition alone does NOT dictate how high your engine revs, intake, port design and pipes do. If I didn't have the cabbage and a stocker went bad, I'd be getting a new one from Ricky Stator... YEah, nothing to it. Two bolts holding it on, two wire plugs to unplug and plug in... How are you "just gonna unplug" the stock one? The bike needs a CDI to run...what am I missing?

Bottom line is when it grenades on you...it's gonna cost more time and money, and don't blame it because it's a two stroke. Why did you come on here asking for advice when you already knew everyone was gonna say fix it, pay a little now or possibly a lot more later...I just don't get it... Normally, bikes don't break next to the truck or back at camp. could be over whoops, a jump, going up a hill...whatever...so, besides the money, take that safety point into consideration as well. I'm done....sounds like you just want to ride and fuck the consequences....have fun... :: :shoothead:

Yep..I think he made his mind up and just came here to BS and solicit opinions. I guess if he breaks it good, bends a crank, etc., then it's our fault...but it's still coming out of his pocket...either way. Tear it up...make the trip. If you had to make it back to camp, that's one thing, but to ruin a whole trip from the get go...just ignorant IMO.... Just because it might run and go doesn't mean you're not doing long term damage elsewhere....trust me, cranks, tranny, etc. doesn't get cheap, plus...splitting the cases, etc. Right now, you could pull a side cover, replace it, buy a new gasket and fluid and you'd be set. You're risking a WHOLE lot more than that....

TMAC, there are three pinned articles on top of this forum....all about carbs and jetting. Main and the air screws do not have anything to do with each other as far as how they affect the running/tune of the bike. Instead of re-writing and explaining each phase of the carb, how to read your plugs, etc., just spend time reading those pinned articles, and you'll be in much better shape than you are now..

If you are willing to pay out of your pocket whatever additional damages occur by running it...then I'd say go on the trip... Otherwise, wait...and change it. You can run across the freeway in traffic and not get hit by a car...but, odds are against you.

He might get a 2 to 5% increase in performance just by removing the airbox with STOCK pipes...doubt he'd even feel that little increase. Put some pipes on...now you're talking... I'd remove the TORS if you haven't already, and make sure the carbs are sync'd properly, too...

If you still have a full airbox and JUST a snorkel removed, 280s will be a fine starting point...IF it is lean, it might be by a jet. If you removed your lid, then I agree, start with 310 and work your way down...

You clutch basket integrity is weakened. pay a little now (which, you already did) or pay a LOT more later. Don't chance it just for a riding trip. With the damage it could do, it could pay for 2 riding trips to fix it...

Just saw this so I had to comment...how did those billet "Bowels" pass Steve? bet that had to hurt...LOL. Yeah, I think Tyler and I own stock and sit on the board of directors....

You're not doing any major work...I'd do it all at once... Take your time putting it all together, and get yourself a tube of high temp RTV. On the back of the NOSS head, there is the fitting pointing down...it connects a small radiator hose elbow to the W/P. My advice to you is remove this fitting, put a dab of RTV on this o ring, tighten it. I always use a thin layer of RTV on all of the orings when i put my cool head on....just to be safe. When you replace the reeds, same thing, skim coat of RTV on both sides of the gaskets. Be careful and set your air gap on the flywheel to .018 or so...set it at +4...and have fun. If it's jetted correctly now, bolt it all together...it should be just fine. If anything, a hair rich in the mid...no biggie.

drain the engine, pull it out and pull the top end off, see if you can flip it over and get it to fall out. You don't want a reed trashing around in the crank case, crank bearings, seals, etc....

Did you get a single or pair of 35's for the 06? No porting? You might want to wait, I think you'll be very disappointed in the output of that bike with stock porting... If it's a single, then it'll probably work pretty well. Yes, a direct drive lockup and clutch cover generally hold .5 qts. more than stock, total of 2.

I'd say 310 in the main at most....320. 280ish is the average for airbox and pipes, no lid. If you have to turn the air screw in to less than 1/2 turn out for off idle response, you MIGHT have to go larger on the pilot...but, with an airbox you should be ok. Yeah, plug chop it...and make sure you warm it up properly before going for a rip....

You should be fine, if not a little rich. I can't say for sure if a single K&N will flow as much as a pair of pods, so...IMO, you're probably a tad rich, but safe. The only thing listed in those mods that effect jetting are the VForce, and normally...IF you have to rejet, it's leaning out the needle one clip. They actually richen up the midrange...so bumping the needle clip one spot towards the blunt end is SOMETIMES, but not always required. You're gonna have a very fun bike once that is all done...but, that's about the limit of bolt ons. With +4 and 20cc domes, it would be very, VERY wise for you to check compression...you might need a little higher octane than premium pump....