dajogejr

Because he has a BONE stock motor, and I'd bet the T5's would suit him better unless he went full on porting and drag racing.... He trail rides, too....CPIs are hardly trail friendly pipes...

700 clams for just the crank is a rip off. However, you need more than just dropping the crank in. You'll need to have the porting on your jugs matched (I'm not a fan of spacer plates at all), the correct pistons and your cylinder head re-cut or an aftermarket head with domes machined to accept the longer stroke... it's not a simple drop and go, bolt together motor. That being said...jeff will point you in the right direction...

300 to 400 for a good woods/MX port. Worth it...but you're never gonna have low end power on a shee...unless you completely neuter the thing. If the cylinders need to be resleeved, the machinist...or you, will need to grind/chamfer the liner to match the porting done on the cylinders...not a HUGE deal.

Yeah...I thought both teams played well defensively the first half. NO Penalties...can you believe that? I can't believe Chad got sacked 5 times in the first half... Second half, whole new game. Hat's off to USC and Pete Carol...he really knows how to get things done!! I think it's time for Lloyd to go bye bye. 4 bowl losses in a row...

You can put the bike in the back of the truck, and pull it in the dunes...then get a $150.00 ticket when (not if) they catch you.... Sucks...but, you really should run 'em. They are not as strict on the db level....on a holiday weekend, just about everyone is getting checked...but, less busy weekends they are more lax...

I don't see porting anywhere in your sig at all...so, curious as to why you have a 6 over arm and 8 paddles? I have 10 paddle haulers for sale in the classified if you'd like to try 'em. I ran them on my 100HP 4 mil cub with a 6 over, yeah....the hook quite nicely.

TTT

Possibly 1 to 2 main sizes leaner, CPI do flow more than T5s. Good thing is, you should be safe (rich) to get a few plug chops done and double check.

Bump Bumperoo Bumperumpski Bumperoonie.... Bumpelina Bumplestiltskin... TTT....c'mon...someone needs an arm for a ported OEM/cub motor to play on....

Kai...you have PM.

That 450 gearbox is very, very new in comparison to a 20 year old plus tranny design.... Just think of that in those terms....double or triple the HP for the banshee (Very easy to do)...and you can see why the thing don't shift...

You guys do realize that a bone stock newer 125cc dirt bike has every bit of high 20's to low 30s when it comes to HP, right? And a stock banshee is in the neighborhood of 33 to 35, right? Then throw in the weight difference....see what I'm getting at?

First off, what kind of mods do you have that may or may not warrant a need for it. They are nice, and for drag racing pretty much a must for a modded shee. They're not bad for duning, they allow for the use of softer clutch springs so the pull isn't so bad. However, dunable override transmission and lockup I think are the key for any real kind of drag racing and dune riding...

on alky is fine...just..as said, make sure shee's a pig...

napster. I've found every song I need with the exception of a very, very few. When you steal music from a bit torrent or P2P program (limewire, grokster, morpheus, the old Kazaa...etc.) you are going to get crap most of the time. Not only that, you're begging for infection of Viruses, Trojans, etc. I'm in the IT Security biz...trust me on that. Rippen, there's more...I"ll PM you...

We can argue semantics on this all day long. He specifically asked about a STOCK banshee, STOCK raptor and STOCK 450. The banshee in BONE STOCK form is the slowest of the three...I don't care who or where you are. Now...put a rookie on the faster bikes and a good drag racer on the banshee...it's a different story. Equal riders, at or near same weight, bottom line is out of the three...the shee will finish third. We all know they can be cheaply modded, and are the most cost effective to mod dollar per dollar, HP to HP...but, that's not what this guy asked.... I'm not a HUGE fan of 4 strokes, but I will give them their respect where they are due. They are lighter, more powerful and better suspended out of the box than a 20 year old designed banshee...period. I will own a 4 stroke one day, probably in the next year...but, for trails, playing around...riding trips, etc. I've got a drag/dune bike that would cost me TRIPLE to match if I tried to make a 4 stroke drag quad...

Yo can not bore your stock cylinders to get to 420....the biggest (and not very safe) is .100 or a 66.50 bore piston, even with a 4 mil crank you won't get there. You need 68mm pistons with a 4 mil crank to get to 421... You would have to get your jug resleeved with a big bore kit. With all the choices of porting, builders and cylinders now a days....sleeve/big bore kits seem like such a waste with a few exceptions (I've seen a few LA Sleeve motors run very, very hard...) See what Andy @ GRR says, but call a few others and see who you feel comfortable with. John...(or Roger if you see this) you can tell us better than anyone, doesn't Andy lean more towards the dark side (drag racing) than anything else. If he builds MX, Woods or trail bike motors, that'd be news to my ears... Not trying to be a wise ass..just askin away...

Roger...it is simply too early to be doing any kind of math, other than how many aspirin it's gonna take today... :yelrotflmao: I always forget that engineering constant....thanks for posting it up...hope you had a good/safe New Year....

BAD...BAD Idea. Trust me on this, tried it. I bought some from a local hardware, snapped 3 out of the 10...literally. And Jankab witnessed this first hand...

I'm going with a big 10 mil motor, this 6 over swinger ain't gonna cut it at the strip and dunes. Had a buyer lined up, personal reasons he had to back out. I put brand new swing arm AND carrier bearings in beginning of 2006. Stainless brake line is from Magic Racing and is for +6 arm...maybe +8...not sure. Will sell all as a package, or separate each. Swingarm (ONLY) Shipped via Fed Ex: 175.00 Bearing carrier with year old bearings, seals: 40.00 Shipped Rear +6 stainless line: 25.00 shipped. I will sell the swinger, carrier AND brake line shipped for 225.00. Add 3% to any of the above prices for paypal payment. The swinger does NOT include the chain slide on front or chain stay in the rear...just a bare arm with front pivot bearings and dust caps. It is a LINK style rear swinger, you can see the part on my bike in the pic on my sig. I can take more pics if interested.

Get a new head...or have that one re machined (the domes)...You can still cut combustion chambers out of that head. How do you know the clearance is perfect? Because it doesn't hit...or because you checked the squish? Normally, you adjust the squish clearance by thicker/thinner base gaskets..but, if the head is that cut down, it's probably easiest to get a new stocker and have someone that KNOWS what they're doing cut it a little...

Yep...exactly. I'd bet that sparkplug looks like it has aluminum specs on it, too... Tear off the top end now, while it'll still run before you do some BIG time damage!!!

138 PSI with a stock head and slight porting? Good for you...if that compression gauge is accurate, you've got a nice tight bore and tight motor. The highest I've seen on a bone stock motor, near sea level, is around 125 to 130.... You'll be more than fine with pump gas and a timing advance...

I took off the water pump cover, drained all I could...tipped the bike a little, that was it. Don't get too concerned with getting every last drop out, you'll be just fine...

Powermadd were on mine (took it off since you don't need hand gaurds for dunes/drag...) They're cheap, take up very, very little room on the bars, and you can remove the shield to let air through to your hands, or put it in to block the winds. You need the guard and brackets... Here's the gaurd: http://www.magicracing.com/PowerMadd-Star-...ds_p_0-714.html Mounting kit: http://www.magicracing.com/PowerMadd-Mount...TV_p_0-715.html