dajogejr

Brr...yeah that's cold.... ANd for those temps, unless the dealer or person you bought it off of rejetted for you, it's gonna need to be richened up. Keep in mind, bigger main will not help it start any easier, so...you might either and/or have to put bigger pilots in, or adjust the air screws. Get yourself a good quality compression gauge...and check it every few weekends for your own sanity. I wouldn't say you have to replace it once it gets below 115PSI...but, you'd be more than safe. My 96 had the original motor in it last year, OE top end and everything. It was at 110 PSI beginning of 2005, and I beat on it all year. Towards the end of the year, it took a good 8 to 10 kicks to start, but...once warmed, ran great. I was more than likely on the verge of needin a top end!

This is a LONG Shot, but...there is a place called Sport Mart in Clinton Township MI. They make or can get just about every single thing for snowmobiles known to man. I'm pretty sure if you can give them dimensions and the end types/sizes/styles that need to be, they can probably make you a cable. However, I've never personally seen a push/pull thumb throttle, I'd bet that will be your biggest hold up.

If you look on Dave Noss's site, it will tell you that stock is 22cc. However, I've read here and elsewhere that a stock head (OEM) is 23cc...so, I'm not 100%....and to be honest, I've never measured a stock OEM head for cc volume. Either way...as said, 24cc should produce no where near that PSI... I didn't even know they made 24cc domes...never seen 'em before!!

I was actually thinking about this last night over a few beers and a game of darts...here's what I would do. Get a good strong dune port and the proper equipment to support it (pipes, carbs, etc.) Then, get an extra set of carbs to run alky on. Alky can give you 10 to 20% increase in performance if it's tuned right. A good dune port is 70HP or so... A stock stroke 65mm bore cub is probably in the 85HP range or so, on gas tuned right. Put some alky on it when you want to dune and drag race...and you should hang with a good tuned small cub motor. Plus, you'll have a way more usable motor when you switch it all back to gas... How's that strike ya?

Great...it's Night on Bluetraxx...or Everything2Stroke....great.

Happy birthday boys.... Tyler, you're 24? You young pup you....wipe that crap behind your ears off....LOL... Now I do feel like a grandpa...where'd I put my rocker. time to buy a four stroke utility quad!! :yelrotflmao: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

Don't take this the wrong way, but something doesn't add up. The domes are marked wrong (and you don't use big bore domes until you get into big bore pistons...which, I didn't read in your list of mods...just a 66 mm piston which is .080, not considered a big bore)... IF those domes are 24cc and your gauge is accurate, there is no way it has 170PSI...no way. Talk to Lane @ Vitos...he knows his shit and is a great guy to talk to.

My thoughts exactly!!! My 10 mil will never see trails, just like the 450 I'll buy one of these days will never see the drag strip. (It may see dunes if and when I pop the motor on my 10 mil, though... )

I might have a set of black UPP intakes. I used them for my 35PWKs (sold, of course..) and I don't know if they're gonna fit my 39's I got for booze... Will let you know...

I'm still stuck on: What if C A T really spelled Dog? And, how much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood? 24 beers in a case, 24 hours in a day, coincidence? Time is never wasted if you're wasted all the time. Lastly, wherever you go, there you are.

I'm sure there are some NY HQ brothers and sisters that can help. I know Ellison445 is in the Bronx area, boonman is in that area too... There has to be something overlooked that another pair of eyes won't hurt...

They look similar to Shearers.....never heard of them myself...

To be honest Chris, I probably jumped the gun just a tad by taking offense to your comment of "I can't ride trails" etc. So...I was probably a little more bold than I needed to be. But All I know of your business practices, and yes...I read ALL of the threads...is you came up on the short end of it. So, either you didn't defend or portray yourself properly, or you're lying. I'll never own Rocket Pipes...so it really doesn't matter to me. However, if you read my posts to the new owners, I am 100% behind them with support (moral, not financial) for them to rebuild the brand and be successful... A good business plan is a good plan, and more choices are always good for us, the riders who support the sport. There are several users here that are Rocket fans...I don't happen to be one of 'em. And, I might add...I actually TRIED a set, I'm not just talking out of my arse. here is the bottom line, there are several ways to skin a cat. You can ride a cub on trails and it makes about as much sense as putting a turbo and nitrous on the family minivan to head up to the grocery store. Sure, anything can be done....but is there a better way? Yes....and cheaper I might add. All I'm trying to say...period. So, I'll stop the banter if you will. We're just going to have to agree to disagree on what a cub should and shouldn't be used for. Fair enough?

He's still got the TORS on, that's always worth 3 to 5 MPH... ::

My question is this....you're running 24cc domes? I didn't know they made them that big?? Do you mean 22 or 21cc domes? And if so, you're wasting your money on race gas....you don't need it with that low of compression. 20cc or smaller, then you'll probably need some. I'll agree with above, more top end with Shearers, FAR better fit and design, but...you'll pretty much have to remove the airbox. CPIs are good pipes, but...I'm not a big fan of their design or fit. Who did your porting, and how aggressive? 65 would be a stretch unless you have some pretty aggresive porting in my opinion... You will probably only get 2 to 5 HP by going from PC to CPI or Shearer pipes....and at a higher RPM, so...keep that in mind with how/where you ride.

I say find a used set of FMF or T5s. Since you mentioned horsing around on a farm and a once a year trip to the dunes, I'd say FMF. Porting is the best HP dollar per dollar...but, pipes are a "prerequisite" for sure!!!

Yes, Yes and Yes.... Anytime you modify how much air/fuel comes in or out, you may and normally will have to adjust jetting. However, where you ride will dictate if you do or do not need an airbox...

Before you remove the circlips on the pistons, stuff rags down each of the crank case wholes, covering the crank case. I'm telling you....if you have a bucket of solvent/paint/gas in a large garage, and a part comes flying off anything you work on, it'll end up in that bucket!!! Murphy's law... You don't want to split cases just because you dropped a circlip!!

I've never seen a stock banshee with more than 130PSI out of the crate, and I'm at or within a few hundred feet of sea level... Every bike is different....150 and timing may cause one bike to need race gas, the next bike might be fine with 91 octane... If you're over 150PSI and advance your timing, it would be good/safe practice to at least mix a little race gas, and just listen to your engine very carefully....and check your plugs OFTEN!!! They don't ping/detonate for very long, kaBOOM shortly follows after, and then it gets $$$$

Thank you for proving my point....of how you still don't know shit. Feather the clutch, work the revs and launch in 2nd gear with a -2 swinger just to ride trail......OR....like everyone else on this forum will tell you, DON'T get a cub for trails. And...yes, most trails aren't going to be 100MPH trails, so...further cementing my case... After reading your business practices, and seeing your work, yeah....I have no doubt you spent tens of thousands and went though 5 top ends. Hell, that was probably in the same year as you were ripping off people and lying to them... You don't deserve the benefit of the doubt...and when every single person on here says one thing, and you're the ONLY one saying another, those reading this can smell and cut through the BS that you're shoveling... It's funny in the last line of your last post is says "just common sense." In your case common sense isn't so common.... :shoothead:

I'd keep the squish in the 40s, run race fuel, and put your timing at 8 to 10. Listen to your motor....but changing from .054 to mid 40s isn't going to raise your compression a ton, probably 10 PSI or so...

Rippen...you crack head....you kill me. That picture is the SHIT!!! :yelrotflmao:

for a good strong dune port 33s will be absolutely perfect. There's only one way to find out...call Jeff @ FAST then Jim @ Passion and see who you like talking to better, who returns your call...and who has the best prices. However, they are far from the only builders out there...and yes I'm saying that even though anyone on here knows I get most of my parts from Jeff and consider him a good friend. You are really doing yourself a disservice by not calling around, cause you might always wonder, what if I called so and so...or so and so I hear is cheaper, faster, etc. Like a good financial advisor, any good builder will take the time to discuss what you want to do now, then in the future to make sure you're not missing something or overlooking something!!

Holy shit....where you been hiding Danny? You've got to crawl out from under that rock more often!! I got a protaper kit from Magic Racing, it bolts over the top of your stock clamps...and got CR High bend bars.... Wasn't to expensive....

I think 300 is a good starting point for your elevation and those temps along with your mods. Personally....I'd take that Amp link off, it'll feel like you gained 10 HP right there alone... Those things DRAG the motor big time. My buddy got a pretty quick dune shee a few years ago, and it came with the almighty amp link. A bearing went on it, he took it off...and holy shit, whole new bike...