dajogejr

You need the correct pistons. IF the bike will run, it won't run well. The long rod pistons (795 series) will not go up into the cylinder as far as supposed to...so, you won't be squeezing the mixture as much. It might run, but it'll run like dog poop. Any shop would let you trade them for the correct bore/stroke piston, or simply return and exchange them for the correct ones...

I would unban night...there's been entirely too much straight talk and getting down to business around here. Someone has to lighten things up for chrissakes...LOL. I've gotten into a little of the bitch fests myself, try to stay out of them, but....sometimes stupid is as stupid does. My personal pet peeve are people crapping on for sale threads, like...that's too much money, or getting into a debate on this pipe is better than that pipe,etc.... Now, if someone comes on a for sale thread with a blaster that does 100MPH on a stock motor with a boost bottle and AMP link, by all means...let it fly...LOL. Thanks for the nod, Rustbag... I think Lee would like to keep this site open and free, free of deletion, favors etc., in other words...keep the HQ the HQ...NOT like other sites that ban or delete threads when a mod's buddy is knocked or called out. I know many of you know EXACTLY what I'm talking about...no need to go into detail.... We all have our friends and sometimes enemies on this site, I think it'd be hard to have an impartial mod or group of mods.... Just my .02. On a side note, Lee...do we really need subcategories and such for General BS? I mean...I thought general was just that...anything NOT to do with banshees, riding, performance, etc? Just more confusing to me now...to be honest.

Ball busters, wrist breakers...you name it. You've been warned, don't try this at home...LOL.

Welcome aboard, Alex... What kind of riding do you do? that will help determine the type/style of pipe. Mating a top end/drag style pipe to an MX port job might not be an impressive combo...

I don't' know.... If he's asking if no spark would cause it to backfire and not start, I'm thinking we can't help him....

Jim, do you have Big Bore inframes, and if so...how much?

I was going to chop and PC my stock frame, but...my buddy already has a lightened J Arm frame with Chrome Drag JArms, Heim joints, the works. So...I'm gauging interest in my frame. 96 frame, full clean title, I'm the second owner, my good friend bought this bike brand new, I bought it in Feb. of 2005. It is still factory gray/silver. I removed the tabs for the stock pipes and for the heel guards. It is 100% Straight and clean, no bends, kinks, etc. SOLID!!! It needs paint for a show bike, it has the normal scratches and scuffs for a 10 year old frame. It will include: A Arms, newer bushings 6 over stock carrier swinger, year old bearings and seals in carrier Will include 6 over stainless rear brake line too. Durablue HD Axle, 0 to +4 with spacers, etc. Rear Hubs Front spindles/hubs and brakes. Steering Stem with tie rods and tie rod ends. This is basically a full frame with arms, steering and front brakes/rotors/pads The only thing missing will be shocks, sorry, I'm keeping my Marvins. I was going to part this frame out, etc., shave it, powder coat it, etc. I don't have the time. Anyone interested, and no low baller, I know what it's worth...so, don't kid yourself... Buyer to pay actual shipping or arrange local pickup, I'm just north of Detroit in SE MI. Frame will be back together this weekend, and I will post up pics when together. You can see the bare frame itself from the pic in my sig, just click on it.

No problem...give me YOUR Email address ass clown, I'll sign you up for it all day long...

IN THEORY....they cut the ignition if your carb slides stick open. In reality, the don't work for crap and are more headache than what they're worth. They are cheap and easy to remove, and...your carbs are MUCH easier to work on for adjustments and/or jetting once they're gone....they really clean up the area....

Exactly what I'd do. I'd think with two stroke gas and oil, the grease would get washed off after a short time. Scotchbrite the whole slide with a very fine pad, clean it with soap and water, dry completely, and put it back together. Also check your cable for breaks, frays, etc. Do you have your TORS removed? Using the proper cable? And did you use the idle removal kits?

If you could put that in English I could try to help....

The throttle cable is the exact same one as used with the TORS elimination kit. I ordered a new cable to go with my PWK35s from Jeff, and when it arrived it was the same one I already had for my stockers with TORS removed....

Don't waste your money, they will not give you an extra 1000 RPM. Your intakes, carbs, porting, pipes and compression dictate how high your engine will run. Get a timing plate for 35 bucks and advance it manually...or save up for a Dyna which can be programmed with a cable and software.

Fix your jetting.... Put the stock 8 range heat plug back in, and mix it 32:1 or 40:1. Some people swear by that golden spectro, I've never been a fan of it myself, but when I ran it for a while years ago in my LT250, it never smoked bad at all, pretty clean actually. You mentioned 35s. Can you tell us what Jetting is in them now? Then....I'd get better tires because stockers don't get traction on stock motors, let alone ported ones as yours...

I would check something else...if you keep bending it. What are your mods? Is it possible an override would suit you better? Is it possible something is bent, misaligned or out of adjustment as is right now?

Yep...or, if it's a groomed/flat track, a strut. Lower that baby best you can. I took my cub to the drag strip at least 8 or 10 times. The first two times I had stockers front and rear. Launching sucked...it would sag, bite..wheelie... I got comp shaws (which are very cheap, light...and look cool too) and it was a whole different animal. The nice thing about shaws is, Nitrogen. Add more or take some out. It's that simple. Hell, they're damn near worth the weight savings alone. Now...the comp series is not the shock to go bouncing around the dunes with, I know..trust me. They are stiff...and could hurt ya if you're not careful. You'd want hill shooters marvins for that kinda stuff...

What was the question again? I can't stop staring at those cans....

2 into 1 35PWK would suit you just fine.

I like a linkless rear and a Mavin with some good PSI in it.

4 to 6 over arm, 8 or 9 paddle haulers. You're pushing about 1/2 the HP you need to be for that long an arm. I'd bet you have the stock shock on that 12 over, too...that thing probably drops like a slinky when you gas it, losing a lot of your holeshot inertia right there. Get some real pipes, if you wanna drag race/dune. PC are good trail and modest duning pipes, you need CPI or Shearers for some real top end pull. Who did your porting, and what kind of porting is it? How tall are your paddles, what gearing are you using, and what gear are you starting out in (launching? )

Note to self: Do not roost Tyler or Travis, as funny as it might sound or seem at the time, being at the business end of a cub with paddles being TOWED is not fun...from the towee perspective.... However, beer will be provided to wash out the grit. Like I told my buddy Bob...be prepared to get shitty and gritty...LOL.

Believe me Travis, I'm all for going, meeting up and having a good weekend of riding, and maybe a beer or 12...LOL. But, I'm not making this the virgin voyage for my new motor/chassis. I'd like to get a day or two on the ice with this build to work out any bugs or problems. Early last year, I made a dune trip and up north trail trip (yes....cubs are not for trails) and pretty much sat at camp the whole time. And...you can't drink at Silver Lake...so, I was bored out of my skull. Too far to drive and too much money to be a parking lot jockey!!! JT and I and the crew had a good time last weekend of Silver Lake last year, I can only imagine what kind of time all of us knuckleheads would have, and what kind of trouble we could stir up....LOL :beer:

I'm going to try and get out there with badass...but, it'll be cutting close to my 10 mil build time. I really don't feel like driving to LS from MI to get bugs worked out.... Jeffro, since I'm running alky, and a lot of it...will there be areas to get the trucks close, etc? I don't want to be wasting others time running out of fuel all the damn time!!

If you're going cub, I think you need to have your stock crank at least trued and welded. Other than that....yes, it's pretty much a bolt on. You need to be very careful, however...and check your squish to make sure it's proper on any new build. Mike, I don't know if you can get cubs or will ship to australia....didn't want to speak for you.. I'd bet Jeff @ FAST can get you what you need, if Mike can't....shipping might be a bugger, though.

You obviously haven't ridden a banshee with a lightened flywheel. This advice holds true for a single cylinder two or 4 stroke, NOT a banshee. If you haven't actually rode a banshee or owned one with a shaved flywheel, you should't be giving advice like this. Yes, for faster trails, a shaved flywheel with a mid and up pipe (like T5s) is a great thing, especially paired with a timing advance. I put a lightened flywheel on mine and a timing plate, and it really woke up my stock motor...and I loved it for trails. Easier to ride, easier to get on the pipe, and it smoothed out the "hit" since it got on the pipe sooner. I did...however, have to turn up my idle maybe 200 to 300 RPM....so, for SLOW, tight technical trails it is probably not a great idea....