dajogejr

I've taken no offense, it's all good. All I'm saying is T5s do take to porting very well, but other pipes will take to drag porting much much better. CPI, Shearer, Rocket, Grand River, RDZ....those are drag pipes...that's al. No big deal...I'm a big boy, there were no personal attacks...it's all good... :beer:

Oh no.... You tap a line into the float bowl, or break off the overflow tube in the bowl and connect the fuel line to it. Here's a rough picture of the ones I sold BKabina....sorry for the lousy pic, it was my camera phone. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=68863&hl=

I was a lazy bastard this weekend, plus football!!! So...the frame itself is in my sig, I will try and get it this week. Are you interested in just the frame, or the whole roller? Chase's will be cheaper than mine, I can tell you that. I won't let a frame with a title go for near that price shipped...so, up to you.

Never said that...just said real drag bikes run duals. I think I'm tired of this pissing match, let me solve it. Give me an address to send the cookie to... ::

A guy has one for sale on here, 55 shipped I think...take a closer look!! http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72468

Should post this in the engine repair section, not for sale... You've got a 100% mismatched package....drag porting, trail pipes, but still want to ride trails....

JD... I have an aftermarket one, pics here: 35 shipped to you, and my buddy just welded a 1/4 inch piece on for the flag mount, it's SOLID!!! http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72093

:yelrotflmao: Nope, I"m putting a single 26mm on my 10 mil...then taking pictures....Midwest Style...

SO....based on that because they look nice means they're fast? Are you actually reading what I'm typing....or did you feel the need to post a bunch of pics of blinged out bikes. Since you're willing to do all this work, do me a favor...call all the builders I mentioned above. Ask them if they run single carb setups on their drag bikes. When they pickup the phone after dropping it from laughing at you, I'm quite sure they'll confirm what I'm telling you. Call 'em up and tell 'em you want a 10 mil, 16 mil, 20 mil Cheetah, cub, caracal, super cub, twister...whatever, tell 'em you want to run a single...please, for your own northwest rebel mind. If you want to post more pics up of blinged out bikes, feel free. You're not disproving my point, which is the real drag bikes run duals. Just remember, you don't gotta be pretty to be fast.... I never said a 1 into 2 won't work. I never said you can't have fun with one on a fast bike, I simply said on real drag bikes, they use 2 carbs.... Are you done now? I'm kinda tired of you proving my point....

I'm not going to argue. The top names in the sport of drag racing don't run 1 into 2 carbs. Cascade bike are nice bikes, but I'd bet the bikes they bring to the strip and dunes to competitively race are dual setups. Call A&S, K&T, RDZ, Grand River, Tyson, FAST, and the list goes one. Those guys MIGHT run singles on their dune/play bikes. NONE of them run singles on their drag bikes. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, I'm just stating facts. Anyone serious into drag racing runs alky, unless they specifically compete in a gas class, which...they still run duals. Anyone running alky knows, you stuff as much alky into the motor to the point where it almost hydro locks. Period... You tell me which can feed more fuel, two carbs or one. I will agree with you play bikes and those for occasional drag and more so duning will run just fine on a single setup. And, a single carb setup can be made to run very well, I'm not debating that. The bike (s) in the videos sound pretty good...however... No one that is serious into drag racing will run a single....

I ran 185PSI and a ton of timing on my cub, you'll be fine with 110. Pingel might not be a bad idea if you're going to hold it wide open for 1/4 mile... The problem with fuel pump is you can't just run 'em with normal carbs...you need to have carbs designed to run a fuel pump, the needle and seat are totally different. (It's what I got for my 10 mil running alky) I'd say remove a float for more volume, but...if you put a pingel and remove a float, you'd definately be safe on gas.

I'm sure they do for a mildly built motor, and someone that wants an easier pull on the throttle. You won't see any hill climbers or serious dune/drag race guys running them. Yes, they're nice for ease of adjustment, etc. You're not making as much top end HP as a dual carb setup, no iffs, ands or butts.

Shit, I forgot to type that...gut your gas cap...good call Od.

Call Jeff @ FAST or PM him (FASTOYS)... He sells it by the foot, and can give you a good guesstimate. I ran 14/42 stock gearing on my 6 over, and he sent me about 6 or 8 extra links. Can I ask a stupid question? Why are you gearing it down that low, do you not like using 1st or 2nd gear, at ALL??

I am online, I eat, sleep and breathe HQ...I bleed HQ...ha ha... Hops, this isn't PS. You can actually type and say SHIT...and it will come across... SHIT SHIT SHIT...now, there...I feel better. Ahhh....

Can you guys tell HOPPER is a drag racer...? LOL... Good to see you buddy... 1 into 2s are actually kinda nice for trails, just not my cup of tea. That's what a 4 stroke is for...LOL.

$250.00 shipped, $260.00 if you use paypal. I just shipped two paddles to California, was about 40 bucks via Fed Ex. These tires are heavier and there's 4 of them, I'm sure shipping will be every bit of 80 bucks cause I'm sure these are heavier than those paddles... Let me know...can bring them to work tomorrow and ship with payment confirmation. Can get more pics if you'd like...

4X4 Utility quad...

My friend posted that 7%, rough figure...and he's got more time on a dyno than most people when it comes to different motor combos, stock to big stroke/bore cheetah motors....

Google is your friend... http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...store/index.cfm

I agree keeping the carbs sync'd is pretty important...not sure if it has anything to do with throwing the TORS off or not, I'd imagine they'd have to be WAY out of whack for that. In my experience....they've done more harm than good. The stock carbs flow pretty good, but, their overall design is junk IMO. I've always eyeballed my own carbs. I did in fact purchase a sync tool from Jeff, and through carefully eyeballing my own slides, I was as good as you're gonna get without using a tool. That being said...yeah, it's important to keep them the same...and sync'd.

If you have the stock coil mounted in the stock location, Orange towards the front of the bike, black towards the rear...but, that shouldn't matter. That timing alone on a stock or stockish motor is high... However, with a good welded crank and a properly setup cub, you can crank the timing way up. Stop thinking timing in terms of a stock motor, he has a cub. My personal bike as well as quite a few cubs I've seen crave timing. What size domes are you running, by the way....and what is the compression PSI? While I agree he can back it down to eliminate that aspect, as long as fundamentally that motor was put together correctly, it should handle 10 degrees or more is so desired. Did you put the motor together yourself? Checking the flywheel key for shear or movement is a great idea, often overlooked. for the hell of it, take the flywheel off and shake it, make sure you don't hear any magnets busted up inside. If the bike started before, and he put new plugs in...the jetting isn't the issue. Sure, as said, it'll run like crap, but...it won't cause it not to start when if he put new plugs in. Even way rich on the pilot/air screw will take a few to foul a plug...

To be 100% honest, I can't say I'd ever check for spark at the flywheel/pickup. I don't think you will... You might want to check the plug end caps, possibly replace them...but, you've got a lot of other things to check first...

If the bike started up and ran...then quit, and won't fire now, it's not the timing. However, just to appease everyone, yes...I'd put the timing back to 0. That's not going to change anything...but, it's a starting point. As said, check the pickup coil gap, and make sure it's tight. Set it .015 to .018 and it'll be fine. OHM the stator. If I'm not mistaken, and I don't have my clymers, the orange goes to + on my Nology setup. I'm not 100% on that. It's a quick 5 second swap, so try it out. I agree with red, you really need to do a leakdown test on yours. Mine was uneven on the cylinder itself on top AND bottom when I got my cub brand new out of the box. I tried every jet combo in the book, pilots, needles and mains...didn't make a lick of difference, however...it started and idled perfectly...even though it had a big enough air leak to suck a shit ton it. Then, check compression. Did you check your squish when you put this together? I know this is supposed to be a bolt together motor, but...it takes some work and these tolerances should always be checked and double checked, even more so on a cub.

Call Jeff @ FAST...got mine from him, good pricing! People tend to hold onto Dynas...