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Everything posted by dajogejr
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Well..not really... There are two ways... Normally...you listen very careful for it. It sounds like someone put steel ball bearings in your cylinders. You can't always hear it, though... If you are running an air box with a lid, you're safe on the mains. If you're not running a lid...you SHOULD be ok...but not certain. In that cold of temps, you'll probably have to richen up the needle and the pilot. Put the needle clip one down, towards the pointy end. Put a 27.5 pilot it...if you're running no lid. Just my .02. Check the piston often, and if it's white you're lean. However....once the motor starts to detonate, it won't detonate long before it starts coming apart...if the spark plug looks like someone sprayed it with aluminum paint, it's usually too late. So...careful ear and checking plugs very, very often is your best defense... If it feels like it's reving like a 125 dirt bike, just not going anywhere, you're normally LEAN...
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Kinda what I was thinking and told him, boys...thanks for the backup. I'm terrible when it comes to electrics and wiring though. Do you think that a pair of 35W bulbs would be better...or should he get a 200W Ricky Stator?
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Tony... I seriously hope you're not running stock jetting with those mods and those temps. What jetting are you currently running, and do you have any more mods to that bike other than what is in your sig, the VForce and the timing mod?
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All reeds do is richen up the middle. You may have to lean out the needle clip one spot...but, run 'em first. Also, you're wasting your money on race fuel/pump fuel in my opinion. +4 and 21cc domes don't warrant the need for race fuel. Do a compression check, to be sure...but, I'd be surprised if you were above 140 to 145PSI...
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Free bumpski. C'mon...Dan @ A&S builds some nice, fast azz Shiznit...
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You need to check squish regardless of what base gasket you use, but...they make a big bore gasket in a lot of different thicknesses. Like I've said before, this is not a throw together motor. You've gotta mock it up and check squish, period. You might have to mock it up 2 or 3 times to get the desired squish, I recommend .040 to .048... You can run a boat load of timing on these motors if you're not running a ton of compression...period. You really need to do a leakdown. My cub was way off out of the box...once that was straightened out, it ran like a top all year, no problems...
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Good luck...I remember the bullshit you and your buddy tried to pull on here last time. I'll just help out the other members right now thinking of dealing with you... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=68829&st=0
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Honestly J...I don't think you need straight cuts yet. Or...I should say, I don't think you could justify PAYING for them. If you could make them for cheap, might be worth it. I'm keeping angled gearing on my 10 mil... Just save a few bucks, get a billet basket. I have the off brand magnum from Jeff @ FAST. I ran it all last year and I drag raced 90% of the time, and one weekend at the dunes. My motor is torn down right now...and that basket looks as new as the day I got it. No wear, notches, or anything.... I think you're overspending on that steel insert basket, and...what if a rivet comes loose or breaks. Just one more thing I wouldn't want bouncing around in my tranny/clutch area... Just my .02.
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Hours of riding and trail riding don't belong in the same sentence at alky.... Once you go to alky, it's ok to bounce around the dunes to get to the drag strip, but unless you plan on doing 80 to 90% drag, and trails to get to the drag, it's a bad idea... And...yes, you will go through twice as much meth as you will gas. Since you mentioned Hill climbing.... YOu might benefit from two carb setups... One setup for gas, one setup for alky for the hill climbs.... They make a quick disconnect for fuel line I'll be investing in to make purging easier...When I get done with my current build, I'll be sure to post up a bunch of pics of the progress...
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BIG difference between 8 cylinder 4 stroke and a twin2 stroker... Either way...doesn't matter. You might net .5 HP on a dyno...somewhere someway... Nothing you'll ever notice by the "butt dyno", on a track or on a timeslip....
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A dusting, that's it. Got an inch or so, maybe up to 2 or 3 total from Wednesday to Friday. Pretty much just enough to annoy you driving and cover the ground, no biggie. IF you grind the boss down flat, you shouldn't need the silicone due to the lock nut, and soft aluminum...just snug that locknut and it's good to go...
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PM Jankab.
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are pipes worth it on a stock engine
dajogejr replied to jet mech's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Call Dynojet....that's who makes 'em. Or...you can get the needles only from Vito's. They are longer, thinner with more clip positions for more adjustability... If you call Toomey, they want 17 a piece for each needle, last I checked. I found the Toomey Jet kit on clearance from Magic racing in the end of 05 for 29.99...so, I couldn't pass that up. I spoke to Kim at Toomey, and they couldn't even sell me JUST the needles for that cheap!! Christ....they're 39.99 for needles only from Vitos. I'd just bump the clip and be done with it... -
Looks like she started a little early in life...he he... Yeah, no age requirements...bang 'em all, and let the doctors cure you later...
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are pipes worth it on a stock engine
dajogejr replied to jet mech's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Sorry...gonna have to disagree...especially with Toomey's jet kit. That kit comes with 270 and 280 mains, and that's for the kit that removes the airbox and puts a foam 2 into 1 air filter in place. If you run that on your bike and you're below 3000 or 4000 feet, you will blow it up, period....trust me. At around 600 to 800 feet, that filter or K&Ns needed 340 mains on my other wise stock motor. jet kits are a total waste of money in my opinion....get the jets one by one...and get it done right! -
Float sticking a little possibly? Needle and seat sticking a little? You MIGHT try lowering the float ...just my .02. Or get a quad and keep it rubber side down? (Sorry...had to... :yelrotflmao: )
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From the motor side, it goes: Reed Cage, Spacer, Intake. I agree...no concreted evidence of performance gains, just clear the clutch arm..
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I would agree if the piped dipped a bit for better spark plug access.... But CPIs make a great dune pipe, no doubt...
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Uh yeah....could you send some heat our way, please....10 degrees was NO fun to say the least...
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Cool beans, you're gonna be in good shape. Jim has a steal on Shearers right now, as you know...and you can probably recoup most of that by selling your Toomeys...win win. I think 34PJs or 35PWKs would fit your bill nicely!!
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I used the aluminum clamps and seals from my T5s right to my RDZ inframes (same as shearer) and they fit. Tight, but fit! The real question is this... Do you have bigger carbs and dune/drag style porting to compliment the Shearer pipes? If not...you'll probably be disappointed in their power output. It's all top end....
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With an 8 over, I'd go regular 12 paddle, or 10 paddle extremes...darn near the same. Get a good rollout, as said...70 or bigger...
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So here's where this one stands. I take the carbs apart, these are stock carbs on a piped shee...by the way. Anyone want to guess what size pilots he has? 45. Yes, you read that right, 45's. And the guy he bought it off of told him it was jetted for 70 degree weather... :shoothead: And, the left side carb threads are so stripped/worn, the brand new throttle caps he got literally fall onto the top of the carb, as if there were NO threads there at all. So...he has a spare left carb. I'm going to drill and tap that for the idle screw, and sent him off to the store to get jets. He removed the airbox, and is going to pods. I sent him to get 27.5 pilots, 340 to 370 mains (it was a balmy 10 degrees in his garage yesterday) and a box of BR8ES plugs. That's where it stands right now... Although he said it wouldn't start before, I think 45 pilots are a big part of the problem. So...gonna start there. With 175PSi in each jug, that should be fine....we'll get it sorted!!
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Same place you got the removal kit. Vitos' sells just the bullet nosed screws, too.
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Ricky Stator will test your coil and CDI for you for free, just pay shipping. IF they are bad, they will tell you. David Keith sent them his ignition and they tested it for him, turned out it was fine and they shipped it back. Before you just buy one, take Ricky up on his offer to test it free of charge!!

