dajogejr

I don't know about that... He hasn't called me ALL week to tell me a good joke, I'm actually kinda disappointed... J/K Jeffro...

Sold to Struble pending payment...Thanks Bob!!

There are quite a few places that sell them. Vitos, Magic Racing just to name a few. Oh...and that Jeff guy at Farm And Sand Toys... (FAST Racing) The purpose of the TORS is to kill your ignition if the slides stick open. While good in theory, many...NOT all people have found this not to be the case. I have two problems with them. If the electronics in them fail, your bike runs like poop or it doesn't run at all. and two, they get in the way...and take up space to work on your motor. A kit consists of new carb caps, new throttle cable, two brass bullet nosed idle screws, a drill and a tap. Here you go... http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=123

That sounds more like it... If you goose it with some starting fluid, will it attempt to start?

No...sorry, I sold them to my bud Bansh-eman. Shipped out last week...

Bob, I'll PM you my phone number, I don't like putting that OR my email on public forums...asking for trouble. I'm in the same boat. I took it all apart because I was going to powdercoat the frame, have it shaved, etc. My buddy who has my motor already has a shaved Jarm, chrome drag J arms, etc. It just needs paint. In the interest of saving time...I'm going to run that frame. I thought all my pieces would sell quickly...they're not. So, I"m putting it together as a roller.... I really don't want someone to have a to pay a couple hundred for shipping, and I really don't want to ebay it...but, I have no need for it. It'll take me a couple of hours to put it all back together, so...just let me know.

450 frame only with title. It's straight and solid. I removed the two small tangs for the stock pipes, and the two supports for the rear fenders. Other than that...it's bone stock frame. the normal scratches from being used for 10 years. 1K local pickup for the roller frame, and here is what it will come with: Frame Front arms, top and bottom, good ball joints. Newer bushings installed. Front Spindles, front rotors, front calipers, brake lines and hoses up front, and rock gaurds. Steering stem, Tie Rods, Tie Rod Ends. Will throw on a stocker set of handlebars...if you'd like. Rear +6 swing arm, stock carrier, newer bearings/seals in both the carrier and front swinger pivot point. Swingarm bolt has been drilled and tapped with a grease fitting. Durablue HD axle, +2 +4. Chrome has flaked, but it is 100% straight and strong. Rear Hubs, rear swinger linkage. Rear Stainless brake line for +6 swinger. If you pick it up in person, I will include 4 tires and rims. 4 holeshot XCRs front and rear, they have over 85% tread on the rear, 90% on the front. It will NOT include: Rear brakes (except for the line, if you want the +6 swinger) rear sprocket. It will NOT include shocks. I sold my stockers, and I'm KEEPING my Marvin Shaws. Since you mentioned flat track... If you don't want the longer +6 swinger, let me know...we can deal. I have another guy interested, but he is out of state and I have no $$ in my pocket. I would rather do a local MI deal so I could avoid hassles of shipping. I'd be willing to meet you 1/2 way, if you pay for my gas...(if you don't want it...still paying for my gas...LOL ) I'm willing to deal, and I have a lightened Drag J Arm chassis waiting for me...that's the only reason I'm offing this one. Jankab on here has my frame at his house, he can verify it's straight and clean. As said...clean title, I am the second owner of this bike. Let me know...PM me and we can swap numbers if you want to talk about this. Dave

I could start 2 or 3 boost bottle threads, that would probably put us over the edge in about 5 days time... Then...maybe a few more blue ribbon coalition threads...that ought to do it...LOL

What size swinger? I was running the same setup eman is gonna be running, 421, Shearer inframe, 35PWks, other goodies...and on a +6 with the tires I sold him, they were probably perfect. Wheelie at will, not TOO bad though...and good hook. You want a taller, more narrow tire, 70" rollout or better. Then comes the science (or guessing game) of figuring out what air pressure and gearing to run...

Got a kickstarter?

Finally!! I'm from MI too. St. Clair Shores. I have a frame, A arm, straight as an arrow, with title and clean. I'm going to put it back together as a roller...or will sell frame only. Click on the pic in my sig to see the bare frame. PM me if you're interested.... I should have the frame back soon (just don't feel like driving to a bud's house to get it) and all the rest of the stuff to complete the roller are in my garage....

Get a couple washers and shim it. Shearer inframes are notorious for hitting the head on the left side pipe. A 1/4 inch stack of washers will do the trick!

Actually, you can get a polished aluminium plug for 19.95 plus shipping, but...you're correct!! You can get the plug for the water pump housing for the same, both at cascadeinnovations.net

damned good explanation.... I personally like a little more squish gap, low to mid .040's....but, each builder/tuner has their own preferences... Nice post, forefed!

Make sure the crank is rewelded by a trusted builder, if it's a wiseco hot rod crank. The factory "Welds" have been known to be weak. I also agree...get dome cut for it, get the 795 series pistons, and get the port timings matched. Not a fan of the spacer plates myself.

Are you running a stock stroke crank?

A...this thread is 4 months old, I'm pretty sure he's made his choice by now... B...no two bikes are alike, but I think your compression tester is broke... I've read/seen/heard of bikes in the 160's running premium pump gas, but 180...sorry, something isn't right in my book.

I want your job...all those toys. Lucky bastard...LOL. :yelrotflmao: I'd bet if you got a stock 660 raptor, that would move it behind the 450...stock of course. I've read/heard those new 700's are pretty impressive box stock, in comparison. Your findings don't surprise me one bit...just what I'd have expected....

Just sent him an email as well. Said he forgot/lost his HQ password, so...give him a few.

What..are you some kind of Nazi that doesn't want to read 15 pages of blue ribbon coalition notes?? :shoothead: J/K.... :beer:

Put the wood bong down.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72373

None of those pipes have a "Hidden Bong" compartment...so, I don't know what to tell you... Had to...gonna take heat for that for a little while. Here's how I'd group them. FMF/Pro Circuits. Good MX, woods or trail pipes. Can run well with porting/future mods. T5, great all around pipe, power comes on a little later in the RPMs than the above two...respond VERY well to mods. T6, great pipe for stock motor with bolt ons, will respond well to very minimal porting...but not the ideal pipe for extensive porting. Side note, either Toomey pipe are good for a little bit faster riding, like open trails, dunes, etc. Hope that helps. I'd say FMF and T5 are probably the most common pipe run, and both work very, very well.

Cause you got timing and a shit load shaved off your motor... This user said stock...and that is him just wasting money on that bike, I feel!!!

Pics for other members?

I would leave the gearing stock, ride it as is once "transformed" and see how it acts. If you have to shift too soon....(not from spinning tires) then go up one on the front. If the gears bog...and you want more "grunt" ...go one down on the front....