dajogejr

Probably a little of both...you'll notice it hit a little harder... You'll be raising the compression 30 to 45 lbs. I'd be double sure you have enough octane as well... At that altitude, I'd set that timing WAY up...like 6 to 9 degrees as well. Just make sure you have enough octane.

Good point...I"m a dipshit. Wasn't even thinking... I know you can replace the tie rod boots, Pretty sure you can replace the ball joint boots, too... Long day....my bad.

I still wouldn't trust a dealer, unless they gave you an actual number, not just "it's normal".... Two simple things. Make sure carb slides are on the right carb. If you look in the back of the carb, you should see a round type opening on the back of the slide, NOT flat. If it's flat...the slides need to be swapped from one carb to the next. Second, there is a round rubber tube, say 2 to 3 inches long that connect one carb to the other, opposite the choke on the left carb. Make sure that tube is in place... That's a good starting point.

Put a very, very thin coat of two stroke oil on the cylinder. Do NOT overdo it. Squeeze the rings with your hands, it should slide in the cylinder no prob...

Ok...If I'm going to slow, tell me to shut up and fast foward...deal? How much was the compression? What did it read on the gauge? What kind (brand of) gauge was used... Stock carbs...sheesh, I'm trying to think of a picture link for them. TORS are the factory Throttle Overide System from the factory, which are garbage. Do you have two large appendages on top of each carb, with a knurled knob on them? They'll have wires plugging into them as well... Or do you have two brass screws, one on the outside of each carb? I'll see if I can find some pics to help... Do they look like this? The TORS are the boxes on top of the carbs... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...124990342QQrdZ1

Check the compression first off, especailly if it's an 89. Second, are these stock carbs? Do they have the TORS still on them? Factory guidelines for idle speed/screw adjustments are just that...a guide...your bike will vary.

I agree with Travis... However, I'd start it up and heat cycle it...just to check for leaks and be sure. Also...ALWAYS use a fresh O ring kit. Trust me on that one...

Funny...I live in St. Clair Shores, 12 and Harper.... Hit me up if you're gonna be in town...I can literally walk to a bar...a damn good one, it's about 50 yards away... Your family will know where the Boat Works bar is, I can crawl from there. Free bump...good luck!!!

RTV....but the joint is non-replacable. Just know you're gonna have to replace the whole arm, sooner or later...

My tranny was cut by Whitaker....or WCR racing. They do a TON of overrides... They recommend ATF +F and change it often... If you're gonna go override, you'll want a lockup too. And in that case, it's 2 quarts...

So...you've never seen/heard this bike run? OHM the stator and the coil...and again, check all grounds and look at the switches. Get a clymers, cross the hot wires for spark. Not counting the lights, the bike needs I think 4 wires to run, it's really not that big a deal...

All about supply and demand...how quick you need the money, or how quick you want to sell. Hold onto it until you get your price... And since you said you'd rather keep it in the garage than accept a lowball offer (good for you) you obviously don't "need" the money... Keep in mind, they're worth a lot more on the West Coast than mid-west and Northeast. I saw 87 to 89 banshees in pretty good shape going for over 2500 to 3K in California...that same bike in MI would fetch 1500 to 2G's in pristine condition.... All about the market!!! Good luck to ya!!! And some pics posted up wouldn't hurt. I use EZ Thumbnail creator to shrink picture size...and imageshack.us to host pictures...

Check the air gap on the flywheel, and then double check your whole harness, taillight to head light. Do you have the TORS removed properly? Could be something simple...easy, like a bad kill switch or key switch...

Heat cycle it once, just to check for noises...etc. Then beat the shit out of it. Do NOT use more oil than you plan to use normally....period. My 4 mil cub on gas went from 2 or 3 heat cycles right to a WOT run on the dyno....and that bike ripped all year last year.

Bout time I found a Senior Citizen older than me...LOL. Happy birthday Ducman, have a good 'un... :beer:

Pictures are worth 1000 words... Free bump for a Michigan Homie...

Where are you located at??

I have both rear bolts on my Jarm frame stripped. I just drilled and tapped it with the next biggest size...no problems... You guy sure you're not just bored or something?? LOL... Then again, it's a drag bike, not like I'm jumping a rail road track or double on it.... It sucked because my chain tensioner needs to be tightened down by the rear footpeg bolt, too...

Each piston ring groove has a little pin, normally they're on the intake side...and about an inch apart from each other. If you look at each ring on the open end, it looks like an L of sort. The ring must close over this pin in the piston ring groove..... I use the snug 'em on the bottom cylinders too...but since this is your first two stroke, get a crows foot and torque 'em down... As badass said, the stock head has numbers on it for torque sequence... really...buy yourself a clymers manual. Not only are all the specs like this listed, but pictures are readily available too...it'll be your best friend before you know it!!

Ahh...the old beer pong. That blue ranger is sharp as all hell. Great pics...I was too wrapped up in getting ready, burning the midnight oil as usual...to bring my camera Memorial weekend. Looks like you had some fun for sure!! Where'd you guys camp at? Be nice to organize an HQ ride at Silver Lake later this year for sure!!!

Agreed. Sooner or later, they're gonna make you start it...but I threw mine in the back, too...on Memorial weekend and they were slammed busy. Check for ORV, state park sticker...and sparkies. Do yourself a favor, leave the sparkies on once you get in. Fellow rider has gotten popped two years in a row for getting in them taking them off right away...unless you don't mind a 150 dollar no sparky ticket...and the hassle. Honestly...unless you have a full built drag bike, I wouldn't worry about a DB test. those four strokes are WAY louder than 2 strokes...they're gonna get DB'd first.

Very nice... I'm dying to weigh my bike. I can tell it's a TON lighter just by pushing it up on a trailer, etc...like it's not even there. As opposed to my box stock 400EX with a pipe, that 4 poke feels like a TANK!!! I'm thinking mine comes in just under 300 or so...hopefully... Nice looking ride, too!!!!

I'd like to see a write up on long term diesel fume inhalation.... LOL... Honestly, I think a write up on some of the performance that can be accomplished with Diesel would be cool...as well as the savings of money due to fuel milage performance...etc.

No no...I didn't mean the motor was shit, not by any means at all. Bigger, higher HP motors really should have straight cuts. It's advisable on my 10 mil...but damn near a must on a big motor like that. I'm sure it runs like a mofo!! I didn't mean the motor was horseshit by any means...wrong analogy, my bad.... :biggrin:

To be honest, on alky and on a drag bike...you need to concentrate on your main jet and power jet. I don't know too many drag racers that run around on half throttle...