dajogejr

Well..Lush. I originally planned on going last weekend in September to Silver Lake...until Roger threw racing in Kentucky out there....so...I'm game, either way!!

Family and work first...the toys are just a bonus. As long as I'll see ya at the track now and then...

I was already thinking last weekend in September...but, I might just head to Kentucky with Roger!! Let's pick a weekend in October...won't be busy...

What oil and mix ratio are you using? Fresh gas? Fresh plugs? What gap? Have you tried the air screw from 1/2 to 2.5 turns out, in 1/2 turn increments? I can tell you with holes cut in the lid and toomey pipes...stock pilots are just fine.

Loosen the two small phillips screws. Get a feeler gauge...or a matchbox cover if you don't have gauges. Place it inbetween the pickup itself and one of the "nubs" on the flywheel. Press the pickup against the feeler gauge, against the nub, tighten it down. Check the clearance between the BOTH nubs and the pickup...

I would bet most builders would disagree with that statement. Any motor that comes out of CP has drag race port timings. Once you get into porting specs..(which,..I don't know what they are, just saying) such as port timing, blowdown, etc., most builders have a range on that in which the call those figures drag porting. Now...will one builder agree with another on the exact number....no. A range...yep. I can appreciate what both of you are saying. You're kind of arguing two different points. Yes....it is designed as a drag motor, then enhanced with a powervalve to be more well rounded. Again...on bigger Cheetah you won't find a power valve, it's blocked off. Which brings me to my next point.... I"m looking into either buying a 20 mil Cheetah or an 18mil DM cylinder for next year. Can I still trail ride with these motors? :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Not more than .020... I like to set it as close as possible without actually hitting the pickup... Did you properly line up the timing marks with the case half/split point? Did you get a new stator, too...or just the plate? All the wires hooked up properly?

that's not the way I understand it, Dave...it gets rid of "baggers. I'm pretty sure the clock is still a bracket race clock...staggered starts. It just rounds down and takes your best time in qualifying. However....we'll have to see...never dealt with a index.

TG.. Send me that crank if you're just going to throw it out, I'd like to see if I can get if fixed...

Set it between .015 and .018. Check both pickup points on the flywheel...

And that's why I run Keihin or Mikuni jets. They SHOULD be the same...often they're not... Get Mikuni mains from your dealer, 3 or 4 bucks a pop, those dynojet needles should have 6 grooves, 4th from blunt end is correct. Might as well pick up a pair of 300s, just for the hell of it.

Hope you replaced the needle, they're damn near impossible to straighten.. Middle clip.

Buy used parts, period....save you a ton. Look for deals from other members, other boards..and flebay.

Ok...my point was gonna be a bone stock motor is roughly 40 to 42ish on a crank dyno...that's all... And I agree...people often take the torque curve for granted...HP is nothing without Torque...

Snop...I'm not trying to be a smart ass at all when I say this...so bear with me. I saw a post where your banshee made I believe 49HP at the crank, on a land/sea crank dyno, is this number correct? Is this the same motor you're running in your own personal machine? If so... I can build a stock motor myself, port it myself...and have two for on everything (Pipes, carbs) and spank that bike all day long with 100% guarantee. And I'm talking in dunes and any kind of drag racing. If that is not your motor, then disregard my comments entirely please. If you would like me to elaborate on my statements, I'd be more than happy to. And I'm not trying to start a war, not trying to be a dick, just stating cold hard facts...

I'm down at the Grand Prix in Detroit, literally about 20 feet from the beer semi...yeah, semi. Let's just say temptation is a bad thing... (Notice I said rode, NOT owned...LOL)

If I"m not mistaken...the bigger Cheetah are welded or blocked off powervalves...14 and bigger, I think...not 100% sure of that. Anyone that tries to make anything bigger than a 10 mil into a duner should probably have their head checked, anywho....LOL..

Riiight... It's not that you can't make them tourquey...sure you can. Then you dump money into suspension to get them to handle worth a shit.... I've ridden a ported (MX style) shaved head, +4 timing, stock carbed motofast 2 into 1 pipe. Torquey...yep. Fun to ride, sure... Pointless...IMO, yes.... I just think it's too much work personally to turn a Cheetah into a tortoise, maybe that's just me...

Don't mean to worry you at all...what Andy is saying is correct, just different preferences from different people... I just don't want you to think it's a simple, throw together motor....it's not. Just check the normal things, squish, compression and leak down before you go out and rip it... My 10 mil this year was brand new as well, I put it on a surface plate and it was flat...but I checked it anyways to be sure. Just use common sense and safe practices, you'll be fine.

Fair enough, I had a few beers in me last night, probably was a little too brash... I am 100% with you on the sound...they are fucking obnoxious....and they just don't sound the same at 10K RPM as a twin two stroke...AMEN. Really...my point is, out of the box, any newer 4 stroke, 400EX and 400 Suzuki included, are better suited for trails motor and suspension -wise.... Does the 2500 to 3K include suspension upgrades? If so...it'll be a fun ride....

I agree with you on both points... I always say .040 to .050 squish, good to go on the 68mm pistons. Super Cubs and Cheetahs like a little tighter squish... .035 to .045. Dutch, to answer your question... I had the head surfaced and the deck height surfaced to get them flat. Not sure if the head needed it or not, but because I snapped two head studs on the bike while running (leaking coolant due to the dip in the center of it) I wanted to be sure the mating surfaces on the head was flat as well... Now...since it was basically put on a surface plate till it was flat, I really can't tell you how much was taken off. I'd venture to say .001 to .004 off the block, probably minimal on the head. So...if I said I milled it, which I may have...I mispoke... It was merely sanded on a plate to get flat then sealed.

I would advise you set the squish by base gasket thickness. I've been around a lot of cubs, cheetahs, etc. and not once have I read anyone, including Calvin, mention .01 hole deck. Squish...however, comes up all the time... My 4 mil needed about .024 or .030 worth of base gasket to set the squish right (two base gaskets, no one at the time had a single thick enough...)

Sam... 1. Make sure the right carb bowl is on the right carb 2. Make sure the choke tube is between the left and right carb 3. Make sure the slides are in the right carb (cutaway facing the airbox) 4. Unplug all the TORS hardware if you haven't already. The black box under the gas tank, the wires to the carb tops and the wires at the throttle housing and parking break. I'd bet it's one of these.... PLEASE do not run drilled out jets....tell cycle world to Shut the Fuck Up...literally. Guys that run alky (Methanol) in their bikes drill the main jets out...and we use micrometers to do that (from .110 to .120 of an inch...)

Shitty...by looking at them. Seems like any pipe but CPIs and Rockets allow you to get to the pipes....and in my opinion, how the CPIs go around the air filters is shitty too, but...not much worse than T5s.

I like between .040 and .050 squish, do you know how to check it. Majic...I'm surprised you don't carry them. Get yourself a digital caliper from Harbor Freight. I think I paid less than 30 for mine. It has become an invaluable tool, especially when you go to alky/methanol and have to start drilling shit...LOL.