dajogejr

Well...it's no secret I've always liked Mike and dealing with him, even if I only bought a few things off him here and there. It's too bad things went down like that. Also like to say thanks to theshee for being a stand up guy and going out of his way 100% to help out a fellow member. That kind of person is becoming few and far between now a days...and that's just too bad. Thanks Kiel.... (P.S. Did you remember to ghost flake the hidden cock and ball graphics in Greg's plastic...so when the sun hits it just right.....) LOL...

He gets that much for that bike I'd be amazed. Not that it's not worth it, bikes aren't selling for shit right now...

That's only because they know you're a Pirate Hooker Aficionado...and they frown on that... It's been up/down a little, but I can tell you when HQ is up, it's faster than it has been in a LONG time... I have a pair of T1s at work and a 6MB cable connection at home, other sites are fine...but HQ had been a DOG lately...

When you remove the TORS, you drill and tap your carbs. Don't half ass it... You could get by in a pinch by using the slack adjusters on top of the new carb caps....BUT ONLY for a pinch. And the throttle slides may stick a little going this route. Honestly, drilling and tapping your carbs is a piece of cake, just takes time ....no big deal. Can be done with your own hand tools...and electric drill.... Do a search, honestly...you'll find all the answers you need to know...

You might want to actually have a few more builds and/or ported bikes under your belt before making such statements... It should be ported to match the stroke. Adding a plate will in fact raise the cylinder, but what about the port duration? Smaller ports, longer stroke...still not an optimal mix. Whether or not you use the spacer plate just tells you whether you need to run cut domes/head or not. Your crank is swinging 2mm higher at TDC and 2mm more at BDC....the ports need to be opened accordingly to get the most out of the crank. Now...will it run? Sure...but you won't see a LOT of benefit from just slapping the crank in without getting the portwork to match...

Unless you're running alcohol...the same as you would run the gap at with stock domes/head. .028

This really, has just not been your year...has it? Shitty deal man...sorry. I've had plenty of dealings with Mike, and I would like to hear his side of this story....

Yep...same I got. I meant Nylon, not string. I run straight water...but next year I'll put a few drops of red food coloring in it for show... I mean hell...you got clear hoses for show anywho, right?? :biggrin:

I use the clear hose with string reinforcement inside the hose. 10 bucks for like 8 foot of it. Ran it all year... Place the end that goes over the water pump in some boiling water for about 5 to 8 seconds, then immediately put it on the fitting....

Finish up with some NeverDull. I cleaned up some pretty pitted up inframe pipes...has them looking good with some real fine steel wool and Liquid Wrench, then never dull. Took quite a few hours...a beer or two ..LOL, but they turned out nice...

That's only because 7+7 = Date Night + probation ya pedophile.

Do you have a modded shift star and the shift pro kit, I've heard of it happening with both of those... Is the shifter detent adjusted right? I've got a N Down override, never had an issue like that...

Ya know...I have been giving some meth away lately....LOL.. Yeah, I get a 5 gallon, make my passes, fill back up...and I usually go through 4 gallons each race, which is 20 passes or so, give or take...sometimes I give that gallon away, sometimes I'll put it in the tank and mix it with fresh meth for the race program... Seems like we were riding every or every other weekend, so...it didn't have time to go bad.

Premix and gas...hopefully not air... the crankcase is sealed off from the tranny...the only thing the gear oil lubes is the gears and clutch.

Add a dab of RTV on the first few threads of each stud before screwing them in. Finger tight, all the way down. No need to tighten them into the cylinders with a wrench...

Ton of pros. Been made for 20 years and still going (just can't buy new models in the US) Great motor, nearly any part under the sun available for them, from wild to mild, did I say great motor? relatively unchanged in 20 years, (chassis and electrical is about it) Tons around for cheap.... Cons: Outdated frame and suspension

:thumbsup:

If you have the time, I wouldn't go so far as to split the cases...no need. I would pull the top end off ...tip it out. Then use some premix oil/gas to flush it out... When I smoked a piston recently, I pulled the top end off, poured premix oil and gas into each side, spun the crank by hand, then tipped it out...4 or 5 times. Put 60 to 80 passes on it since, NO issues....and that was with aluminum from the piston crown down there... I think splitting the cases is excessive for just oil. But flushing it is a good idea....

Who is your Daaaaaady....?

90 HP, Stock Swinger, raptor plastics (did I mention it was pinned and welded....twice) It seems drug are rampant and readily available in Mesa, AZ.....

Yep...I know he would. Just add 460.00 for premium shipping.... LOL...

Aren't you two working on a formula to promote a special, one of a kind, pirate hooker type of lube called "hot rods"....???? :biggrin: :biggrin: That motor looks nasty fo sho. You're obviously gonna have to split cases to pull it all apart and clean it, inspect it. I would take a good, long look at those cases...when the crank comes apart that bad, it can often crack and/or weaken the structural integrity of the cases too... Food for thought...

Posting this over on HQ for my boy....7 mil crank, brand new, welded inside and out. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...7780#Post757780

Start with 350 mains and work your way down, it's getting cold up by us...so, start rich. 27.5 pilots...

CLE @ BAL BAL NYG @ DET NYG NO @ HOU NO KC @ IND IND OAK @ MIN MIN MIA @ PHI PHI SD @ JAC SD ARI @ CIN CIN TB @ ATL TB CAR @ GB GB PIT @ NYJ PIT CHI @ SEA SEA WAS @ DAL DAL STL @ SF STL NE @ BUF NE MNF TEN @ DEN TEN