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dajogejr

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Everything posted by dajogejr

  1. Put the plate at 0 and try each curve... I had a TON of timing and compression on my 4 mil cub, but...never ran a dyna on a stock motor bike. See which curve you like best. If I remember correctly, curve 2 started the advance way sooner than the rest and tapered off, but curve 3 had the most overall timing for the longest RPM range. 1 is somewhere inbetween, and 4 is stock with a 4 degree advance....
  2. Did you actually get to WOT in 5th and 6th gear?
  3. After the holidays, we need to get together and have a housewarming party. I've been biding my time because to be quite honest, I've got no time outside of work... I'm going to make time and round up the boys... This is a family matter...
  4. Gotta be different to try and keep up with you...LOL...
  5. In the sig.
  6. I'll say 28PWKs only because even with the TORS removal, stock carbs are a POS if you ask me... But, you could save that money for other/better mods before replacing the carbs...
  7. Used water in my bike all year, only had the motor broken down once since I put straight water in it...no issues buddy. I only put 50/50 in it a few weeks ago cause it's mid 20's right now.... I should add, as well. Last year I used straight water in my 4 mil cub on gas. It had a lot of compression, a TON of timing, and I duned the bike with JT and crew. never once did it get hot, overheat, etc. And that motor and the whole internals of my motor looked perfect as well.... Now...would I leave straight tap water in my bike for years? No.... But I have no issue leaving it in for a complete season if nothing goes boom...
  8. Yep...pretty much what I told him in PM AND on this thread, same issue.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry746937
  9. You didn't have to post this in general repair and jetting/exhaust. Ask loco to move/merge the threads....
  10. Um...yeah, it's the best way to guesstimate octane at first before tuning. Also...you Aussies have your octane displayed different than us in the states. we use the average of Motor and Research octane for what it's rated at the pump. We don't have 98 octane around here. It's usually 87 to 92, 93 or 94...then right to 100 octane and above for racing fuel. I can tell you a 190PSI motor with +4 timing around here won't last long with 98 octane....our octane readings/display measurement..
  11. I would be upset if I wasn't made aware that is how the carbs were setup. However....I'd be more concerned if the dump tube were drilled for alky...as I told him in a PM. They will never work for gas if that's the case. As long as the dump tubes are ok...I would be asking the seller to purchase new floats for these carbs and have them shipped to you... It is common for people to remove a float for more capacity as said. however, it should be noted that this mod was done prior to the sale... They still should work...however.
  12. My understanding is he is a machinist by day/trade, and porting and other bike work is secondary and his fun/hobby on the side. He's not on HQ as much anymore, used to be back a while ago. He's a moderator on E2S and has done a lot of work for some very happy members on E2S. I've talked to him on the phone a few times and we've done business. Great guy... But as I've said over there...and here. Make the calls... You wouldn't walk into one car dealer, sit in one car, and buy it without trying out and comparing other options....your builder should be no different.
  13. I agree, Brandon...I didn't want you to think I was being critical, and I might have read into what you said too much. General basics and understandings are a great place to start, I agree. But I'd prefer someone with actual experience vs a motor that is theoretical, like numbers and figures punched into a computer to tell you what a motor "should" make. Not that a computer program or modeling isn't a good place to start, I just think there's more to finishing and fine tuning than what they can tell you. What works on a screen or paper doesn't always work in the sand, dirt or on pavement. That's like saying my motor put out a gazillion HP on a dyno, I should beat everyone, right? NO....it's setup and getting that power to the ground. Knowing how to ride doesn't hurt either...
  14. Once again you are going to turn this into "here's my favorite builder" thread. Since Flotek is big on E2S, but not on HQ...you will get different answers.... Even Denny said (Flotek) talk to several builders and see how they treat you, IF they call you back, when they call you back, pricing, etc. Go from there....
  15. Brandon... Your post sounds more like a college degree and less like tested by fire methods. Math and physics are a GREAT place to start, and I agree...no one can have too much education. But that's like saying you can get a piece of paper from some university saying you know how do a job. Yet a seasoned veteran in the field will tell you experience is key... On that note, I'll take street smarts over book smarts any day. Knowledge and Wisdom are two totally different things. Just because something works on a sheet of paper or on a computer doesn't mean it works as you think it will in the real world. Back to porting... I think I've always portrayed the message of...if you want to try it out, go for it. But be prepared to fail. Without experience...it's 100 times easier to ruin a set of cylinders than it is to make them better. However, those that are the best at it have probably ruined more cylinders than most people will ever see. Reading up on and educating yourself on the matter at hand only goes so far...and it's a starting point. But no builder built a record setting engine or a track record holder their first time out by reading a book and using a calculator... Maybe I'm taking all this to the extreme...but I like to think I'm "keeping it real".....
  16. If you're gonna wear a MX Helmet, might not be a bad idea to take the visor off too...
  17. I'm gonna get some fruity exhaust fragrances from Jeff just so Dan can catch a whiff... I wonder if they have Cinnamon French Toast smell??? lol...
  18. My view is this...(can't say I read all the posts in this forum...though) If you want a better life for yourself, come to the USA. That's how our country was founded, period. However, once you're here, chip in, get a job, pay taxes...stop asking for handouts and abusing the system. Welfare is a great system, the problem is that system is manipulated and abused. If you are disabled, injured, (and I'm talking genuine injury or disability....having 8 kids by 5 different baby daddy's does NOT qualify) then fine, this country will help you the best we can. You guys watch Million Dollar Baby? Her mom, typical scum bag loser. Is given a house her daughter worked so hard for...and what's the first thing she says? What am I going to do without my welfare? How am I going to live? If you have a brain that works, limbs that function, get a job. Our Nation as a whole will prosper from the labor force and taxes paid into the system, instead of it getting sucked out of the system for illegals or people abusing the system. Don't tell me that the wages Burger King and Mickey D's doesn't pay enough to support your lifestyle. Do you think successful people started at the top? No...many started at the basement bottom and through hard work and innovative ideas and practices they became successful. I don't care what color, race, religion, sex or creed you are...there are plenty of abusers and criminals in all of those categories... Makes me sick.
  19. Jeff at fast has a setup that actually has a roller bearing in the pivot on the lever itself. With 6HD springs and my lockup, the pull is still very reasonable...
  20. Yep...same here. However....last year on my 4 mil duner I had a Nology Coil w/ hotwires AND Dyna ignition....so, my ignition was already pretty strong. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, but the ES have always done me fine...
  21. No offense to dave moore racing, but I wouldn't trust a removable sub frame on a drag bike you're doing 70 to 80 miles an hour on in a few hundred feet or bouncing over the dunes....just me. Most places will weld you a chromoly sub frame on...) They just retain the stock seat latching bar, fab the rest.
  22. Well....sure, bring some buddies over and tip it... Honestly, alcoholbanshee, badassshee and I all have drag bikes. there's nothing to them...not as much to remove, etc. With a cigarette break, we can pull our motors in 15 minutes, solo. My motor was already out, just so much easier to work on a bench than hunched over or on a chair. It really depends on what kind of damage you did, how much sand you think you may have sucked, etc. I've got a drag bike...so if the motor goes, within a week it's being torn down. You may not...and probably plan on riding it for quite some time. you might want to tear it down for good measure. Us drag racing guys think nothing of tearing an engine out and tearing it down, common practice. It might be a more daunting task for others not as experienced or gung ho.... Just me .02.
  23. I've been PMing back and forth with him. It's not the overflow tubes he's dripping fuel out of. It's the drain line on the bottom of the carb. I told him if his daily riding doesn't involve very big changes in elevation or temperature changes, send 'em back. Us Alky guys must have power jets to enrichen the mid and big end for big motors, that need lots of fuel. I like the idea of a dial a jet for a gas bike, but if your riding area/locale/temp/altitude doesn't change a lot, probably not worth it. I had my 35's setup on powerjets last year on my gas bike because I had every intention of converting it to alky...but I pretty much sold the whole bike and went in another direction for this year. It was nice...though..
  24. I'll be out there... 1996...we're neighbors, I'm in St. Clair Shores....think I responded to your post on PS as well. Buddy of ours lives over at 14/Gratiot area, always out there with sleds and his banshee. Should be a good time fo sho...
  25. When I broke the crown off a piston earlier this year, I pulled the top end off and dumped purge gas/oil into the crankcase with a cup. Swished it, rolled the crank over and over, poured it out.... Repeat 4 or 5 times.... put mine back together, ran fine the rest of the year...including now if we ever get ice to ride on..LOL.
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