dajogejr

The rear motor mount will flake/crack the PC a little once you ride it from flexing...other than that, I recommend taping off the sides. I had mine done like seen above....and if I did it over, I would only have the top and bottom done, not the sides...

My guess is an air leak...and by resealing everything, it's all good.

I'm sure for max performance, like anything...you could port them some more. But they're triple exhaust out of the box while looking stock. I'd bet they can use a clean up...

A buddy of mine is either putting a 4 or a 10 mil together with them, he's gonna see how they run out of the box. I dont' know if he's going gas or alky, my bet would be alky...I'll let you know.

http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=1&featured

Guys...by no means am I telling you these will out run a cub, cheetah, twister, etc. But for those of you that run big motors and lie, cheat and steal...these might be for you. They appear stock cylinders but are actually big bore, triple port cylinders...and priced dam affordably.... http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=1&featured

I would avoid opening up the windows on the intake side of a cub. The intake ports are LONG ports, and cubs "stripe" the intake side of the piston. You open them for two reasons, one to lighten the pistons (a few grams can add up when it comes to rotating mass) and to get fuel in faster and more of it for the intake charge...

This is John Austin's favorite song...finally remade.

Ditto on the Magnum from Jeff @ FAST.... :thumbsup:

Start with 340s and do a plug chop. With FMF pipes and Pod filters, you may have to bump your pilots up one size (to 27.5) if it runs best less than .5 turns out on the air screw. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

You guys just have to remember this...it's a compliment to us banshee riders. Anytime some dipshit posts up banshee eater, that's a compliment to us all...these are the king engines in the ATV drag race world. It's kinda like saying "Microsoft Windows detroyer".... Love it or hate it, it's #1 in use....and everyone is gunning for it. When I see this stuff I just kinda laugh...that's all you can do....and feel sorry for the poor guy that buys this and gets smoked by a piped and jetted shee in a drag race.

I use the Magnum myself, 3rd season, still going... Anyone got a link to this PE basket?

Scratch everything I just said... This is RB Racing out of Florida...not RB Porting out of Michigan. Forget what I said in the email reply to this board...sorry guys.

I think what you need to do is get a nice dune ported set of cylinders, setup your bike that way...and come out drag racing. See if you like it. Once you cross over...you don't go back. Drag bikes make more HP, but in a very narrow range, they're low to the ground, stiff or NO suspension (struts) and like a fresh groomed flat track. Get a fast duner...see if you like to drag race with it....I think you will. Really, though...a drag bike is a purpose built bike. Ideally you have two. One is a strict drag bike, the other is a low maintenance, fun and easy to ride dune/trail bike. Enter the 450 4 pokes. They're great at both of those....

I agree 100%. I've had both, dyna and currently use stock CDI and my plate. I do, however...have a Nology Coil because you want a nice strong spark for alky. A stock coil will work fine, I just wanted a new coil and wires...LOL.

Hell doug, they'd all whip my arse...unless I came out with chisel pick tires, etc... I would NEVER hook up on that track..LOL... Nevertheless...it sounds like fun. Let me and Shayne know next time you're gonna do it. I'd love to come out and have some good old fun racing trail bikes and campfire racin!!!!

No prob. Try driving 4.5 hours one way to the dunes, make 6 or 7 passes and blow a head oring. On two trips....and have to ride a turd 400EX all weekend. I had my fits with my 4 mil in the beginning, and again with my 10 mil. So...any motor I build going forward will go to a dyno and local drag strip (2 hour drive) before it goes to the dunes anymore....

That is WAY more than enough jet for that bike, especially at 5000 feet. You have an air leak. Buy a leak down test kit to confirm it... Remove the top end, replace the crank seals and re seal the cases, use rtv thin on the reed cage gaskets. Going from 270 which is about what it should be to 380 mains...and it's still lean. You have an air leak. Period. You'll be rebuilding it again in another week if you keep riding it. It's not the jetting....guarantee. Your bike will flow any size jet you throw in it. 270 to 380 is a DRASTIC change...you have other issues. Bob @ R&B Racing in Michigan sells a nice leak down tester...he normally has them up on ebay, but I don't see one now. Tell him I sent you. 517-388-3662

Before you go back to all stock, try 3 HD springs and 3 stock springs. It will be manageable at the clutch arm, and hook good but not as aggressive or as hard as all 6 HD springs. I run 3/3 in mine right now....

Couple different ways to think about this... Can it be competitive with a cub? Sure... can you setup a 4 mil stocker cheaper? Not really. A very well done 4 mil stocker with triple exhaust and aux. intake ports will set you back some bucks. In reality, a 4 mil cub cylinder cleaned up is great, great drag racing power. Then there's setup. Chassis, suspension, transmission (Override, no iffs ands or butts) lockup.... That's why i say do it right the first time, instead of paying for things twice.... Don't waste your time with an airbox on a drag bike. You will not find a single drag bike running an air box, it will ALWAYS be pod filters, K&N or foam....

Nick... Wait till you're ready to get into drag racing fully. If not, you're going to buy twice the stuff to get to the same final destination. Trust me...once you get that taste, it's all over.

You buy the rebuild kits, get me the kickers and I'll do all of them. Cost you a good flywheel you got laying around. Takes 5 to 10 minutes each (if the screw isn't stripped out, etc.)

What do you mean it just blew out the back? You mean backfire??

That' really doesn't mean much...to be honest. I have a sync tool, I'm sure we can get your jetting close. I have no room to rip down the street (and...I kinda like my neighbors...to boot) but I think we can get you squared away.

You need the idle screws to do it right. Buy them, get the drill and tap...and I will set the carbs up for you if you'd like....