dajogejr

You guys have a little to learn still. It's absolutely 100% possible...in the hands of a few solid builders. Where is the ebay bike? It all depends on his porting....period. He's got kinda low compression to make that number, but it is absolutely possible. The way the guy is talking about the bike...kinda iffy at best....but it's still very possible. Keep in mind...a Dyno is a tool used to tune motors, that number means nothing.

Actually... A powerband is the complete RPM range a motor can run, bottom to top. Banshees are famous for what's called a "Light Switch" powerband. In other words....wait...wait..wait....BAM. And it hits... Broad power band means power all over the RPM range, narrow would be the opposite. Peaky would mean it makes it's usable power in a short/small RPM range (think drag race bikes) There are several ways to describe a bike's actual powerband, but essentially...people use "XXXX" style/type powerband to say where there motor starts to pull in the RPM range...or when it starts to get on the pipe. A "colored powerband" is a long standing joke...

C'mon now...it's easier and safer to work on a clean engine once you've gotten it down this far.... :thumbsup:

Are you going to charge extra for air in the back tires? If air is free..consider it SOLD!!! J/K...sorry to see you sell. I know how much TIME and MONEY you've put into it....

Clean that thing up, you're hurting me eyes...LOL!!

Yep...I'm reading you loud and clear.....

I check both. Flip the cylinder over, put the gasket on there. Normally, with the engine spacers...it matches up pretty darn good on the cases as well (I mean the little collars that go around the case studs, btw.)

because of the larger bore and more transfer area of the cubs...I'd say it's worth it!! I use a big bore base gasket and a black sharpie marker to mark where I'm gonna grind!

It's worth it to do it yourself, even if it takes an hour or so of your time, taking your time and doing it right. You do NOT want a mirror-polished finish, just a smooth type finish.... I'll do this to mine when the motor is broken down again....

You are missing the point...they are painted red door stops. That's custom... :biggrin:

And your bike has reverse? If you want a banshee to put around on, ride with a beer and double ride with your G/F...please don't buy one. Get a MULE or Rhino or something, don't give us a bad name please....thanks.

WOW...now that I'm looking at the pic closer, you might be on to something. Can you tell us if there is a metal ring on the outside of the dome, kinda hard to see from those pics. If the outer edge seals against the head itself, and Not the dome...that is your problem. You will smoke another Oring in no time. Small bore domes the Oring sits and seals on the dome itself. Big bore, as noted, seals between the lip on the dome and the shell of the head...

Well...I'm going to have to take back what I said about his chrome. Near the head pipe @ the bend, I noticed mind flaking a little. You'd have to look real hard to find it...but, it's happening. I'm not even going to bother calling...the seam split, he did a great job on turn around (I don't know if he sent me back a shelf pipe or welded and rechromed it) but I'm not sending the same pipe back twice... I'll get raw metal next time...get them chromed myself....

Put straight water in, you'll be fine. Those don't look like stroker domes, but they are small bore domes. I would slowly and lightly bend that piece back. Funny...by the subject of this thread, I thought it was about Firehead getting drunk in his college days sitting behind a glory hole....

Tanks Chris... Good luck with the sales, let me know how it pans out!!!

Bump...

Bump...

If you were to sell the front spindle mounts shipped, what would you be asking for them?

Raptor fiber and steels. I think the Toomey are stiffer, but I don't know to be honest. I use the Barnett HD springs. Right now, I have 3 HD 3 stock. But I also have a 3 + year old FAST clutch that is a little worn...so, I don't know how I'm going to set it up when I get my new clutch components. Here's the part numbers for you: 5Y1-16321-00-00 PLATE,FRICTION 360-16325-00-00 PLATE,CLUTCH (steels)

without a big motor with a lot of HP, I think all 6 HD springs are overkill, IMO. I'm going to be trying a 660 raptor clutch in mine soon. But I also have drag bike with a lockup, hardly a fair comparison for him. The key is to check the wear on the components and make sure the engagement arm is adjusted properly, both can be found in the manual....

That car is my dream car...I'd love to see pics.

Word...leave the slow motors and ugly plastics on the Craptors....don't do it. Get some nice fullbore or laker plastic. Maeir plastic is garbage. Have JD (87sheerips) laser cut you a nice new grille, his are works of art.

www.farmandsandtoys.com

Get a clymers manual (30 bucks or cheaper) and do it yourself. Pickup a clutch kit from Jeff @ FAST. 90 bucks or so...it'll last a long time. He can also walk you through checking the rest of the clutch components. If you have worn inner and outer hubs, a new clutch won't last long...and the inner hub and pressure plate are CHEAP...like 50 bucks or something... And please turn your caps lock off...

Fine point... I should add...if you got a HUGE Motor....it'll pull the bigger gears too...LOL. Pavement or grass that offers primo traction will test the clutch. Actually...a dyno is a real good test of the clutch's holding capabilities...