dajogejr

Damn...good price, STEAL actually. This will fit 95-96 wiring harnesses. I have the 96. If I didn't already have a spare, I'd jump on this. Good luck....

Offset front tires can do the same. Swap the front rims and plug the old valve stem hole, drill new ones. The inside tire on a turn will crank WAY tight....

4, 7 and 10 mil are common. For the price it costs to have a custom 5 mil done, or other odd number...it won't offset the small performance gain if any...IMO. However, if you got a line on a cheap 5 mil stroker crank, the other additions/mods would be the same as a 4, 7 or 10 mil crank in perspective. The head and porting would have to be matched. The big difference is this, bigger than 4 mil, you will need to trench the cases most likely. 4 mil is a drop in crank, no case work. Once you go bigger...say 5 or 6, you MAY or MAY NOT have to trench.... 7 mil and bigger you will, hands down. Figure that into your costs. Trenching runs 75 to 150 bucks.

If you used a 3 jaw puller and haven't removed the crankshaft nut yet, throw that flywheel out. It's trashed. Use a better impact gun to get it off. Soak it over night with some WD40 or other... Take a small wire brush and clean the threads on the flywheel itself where the puller threads in. I had a year old Ricky Stator flywheel that was quickly trashed...I had to weld the removal tool onto the flywheel to get it off, twice....it broke the tack welds.

EEsh....got it. I'd take the dash for cash any day over a weekend at Silver lake if it's anything like it was last year! It's probably a good chance the bash will be my only dune trip this year....

You are correct. However, a bog normally is created by a rich condition, not a lean one...

He has a +8 Tdub as well....I asked him about it just a few weeks ago..

He's got a PVL, and they can be a pain to start. Kick it multiple times real fast, over and over. Those ignitions are hard to start sometimes. On my bike...when it's dead cold, it starts just as easy on gas as it does methanol. However, I have Lectrons...that could be part of it...dunno.

Good catch... I thought maybe you and big red were making your own parts now.... :biggrin:

If you decide to stay out of frame but go small bores, let me know. I got a bare set, one out each side.... They were supposed to be Big Bore, they are small bore...and do me no good. You change your mind, let me know. Otherwise, good luck to ya!!

Yeah, I gotta show my artistic side now and then...LOL. Keep in mind, the leaner/richer arrow correspond to clip position...

If I had extra cash, I would pick this up as a backup in a heartbeat....this coil and wire setup is the bomb... Good luck!!

I say we shoot for end of September, beginning of October. All the holiday craze will be over, the weather will be cooler. Hotels get MUCH cheaper after Labor day...and the dunes aren't too busy.

I spent a lot of time and effort coming up with this illustration. I hope you guys appreciate this technical wonder... LOL...J/K. Hope this helps...

You can get a nice billet timing plate from Chariot performance. They are cheaper than the pro design billet, but pricier than the case piece from Ricky Stator.. Click on the Chariot Performance link in my Sig.

I'm thinking you actually need suspension to do that...LOL. That looks cool as all hell. Anyone ever jump from the first hump to the next? Is that red bike your 600 CBR Craptor?

I didn't sand the vent hole....just the slide. Hope you didn't read that wrong.....LOL.

What mods do you have done now?????

Gotta disagree...Mark. If I didn't experience it for myself 100% I'd agree with your theory...sorry.

Yes sir...you are correct. However...it actually put me closer to Kevin's spec for the slingshot. With the old clutch setup, it was about .040 to .045 clearance for the slingshot. His spec is .070. I'm at .082 right now, which he said is fine. I can't say for sure, but the steels could've blued from tight clearance, they could've blued from being 3 years old and abused...

Don't be afraid to use a little heat...too.

Unless it's fuel pump carbs, I've always set mine eye level if they're upside down with the bowl off. If I have problems with fuel overflowing, adjust from there (if the needle and seat are clean)...

WTF are you guys smoking?? yes...it does matter. That hole is a vent so the slide can go back down...without it...it can act like a piston and stick on you. The rubber seal will seal dirt and foreign matter out of the carb, but it needs that vent to let it lower down. The retainer for the needle should NOT cover that hole... And yes...I have 100% seen that happen. I completely broke the carbs down, lightly sanded the slide, made sure the idle kit screw hole that was drilled did not nick the other side of the carb. After riding for a few minutes...it would stick... About the third inspection I noticed that...and all was well....

Did you try a simple adjustable set of pliers?? Remove the gas tank, remove the carbs and leave the cable tops on...drain the carbs completely... Clean them off with soap and water, than get a propane torch and heat up the carb caps all the way around for 5 to 10 seconds. The reason i say clean them with soap and water is you don't want any stray fuel igniting. I've NEVER had carb caps that tight, when you go to reassemble, snug them by hand only, use the L Hold down bracket to lock them. Some dipshit overtightened them, hope he didn't strip or cross thread them all to hell... 30 pilots are too big IMO...put 27.5 in and see from there.

two years... Only got a lockup last season for my 10 mil. Just experimenting Jbook.