dajogejr

It dropped right in....

I agree with jbooker, a solid port job on your cylinders would've been a better fit. Do a search for trail riding with cubs, that will answer your questions.

Hi... It's more than just what kind of pipe you get, it also has to do with your setup, current mods, etc. So...that being said. What is your current list of mods? Also...when you say track, what kind of track?

Dinner...duh...my bad homie. You can borrow my sparkies. When you asked about them in PM, I had an extra set I got for free...but they were bolt in for a set of CPI silencers, end cap replacements. You can use my clamp ons... I'll need them for the bash the weekend before, I'll get them in the mail to you that Monday.... Unless one of our members is gonna be at the bash and for the 4th, I'll just them to them then.

Sorry...that doesn't tell me anything.

If you want to shift very often, 12 is the way to go...I would never run it though...that's just too damn small. Go 13 on the front and add a tooth or two to the rear...

Is it the right side plug by any chance? Could be a blown crank seal...tranny fluid can foul a plug real quick...

You running alky or gas?

No... I'm always up for trying something new. I'm using a stock Raptor 660 clutch with 6 different kinds of springs and a slingshot lockup. I have 3 Barnett HD, and 3 HD springs I'm not sure who makes them. Old clutch: Fibers: .118 Steels: .460 New Clutch: Fibers: .113 Steels: .460 I'm gonna hold onto the old fibers "just in case.".. Rolling out with new clutch, new cable (what a difference...) and a new rear sprocket..and I'll have a little better adjustment for my wheelie bar as well... Should be fun!!

Don't know....but center of eye to center of eye is 110mm. Long rods are 115mm... Don't confuse rod length with a stroker crank. They are not the same....a 4 mil stroker crank will have the rod pin 2 mm offset. If you can take several quality pictures of the crank, we can probably help you out....

Finally...after over three seasons of abuse, time to retire my FAST clutch. I bought it in 05 when I had a stock cylinder, stock port bike with all the bolts ons. Abused it. When I bought my 4 mil cub for 06 I got a new inner, outer and basket...reused the clutch....abused it more. Ran it all last year in my 10 mil cub on alky at the strip, a few times at the dunes....on the ice and recently at Gilbert at the Planet Sand Drags. The basket has a little discoloration on the fingers, grooves were SO Slight, it wasn't even worth filing them. The color is just barely worn. The fibers still look great, the steels are finally starting to blue. It's earned the right to retire...here's some pics as proof. And...of course, I put it all back together and forgot that washer on the back side of the inner hub. That baby LOVES to stick on the back. Did the same thing back in 06 when I replaced it all...

Sorry to hear about the 10 year old. I don't know the difference between the different types, but hopefully with treatment catching it early will pay off. Dumb question, but does your leak down tester have a check ball in it? I used a low pressure tire gauge for mine, but i had to remove the check ball... 6PSI for 6 minutes is a good rule of thumb, up to 1PSI loss per minute is acceptable.

Been there and done that. I know EXACTLY where that little sandy area with the tree in the middle of the split is. I haven't seen that in 3 or 4 years, but i remember it like yesterday...

Right...we're so lame, he has to come on here and tell us that. How pathetic is that..?

It should say 513MO and then a number. That number is the bore size....like 6400, (64mm stock bore), 6425 (64.25mm, or .020 over). 513 means it is the standard piston, not a stroker, long rod or big bore piston. Wait a minute...that could be like a Vito's piston...made by Wiseco for Vito's. get a pic of the top of the piston if you can. If it is in fact the stock 64mm bore, you want ring set number 2520CD.

Cuttting off loops makes the initial pull easier, then just as hard as before.... gently sand the outer edge of the whole spring, that will make it easier to pull. Careful not to go too much.

If you still have a stock stator or can get your hands on one, do that. Trust me...

Go back to dune review and cry over there too..

Sounds like another 1-15 disillusioned Dolphins fan....

Thanks man...I needed that. Good stuff...

I'm sure the logic built into the router knows what ports the Game uses to communicate, and uses QOS accordingly. My interpretation of the router is that when the gaming system is on, it gets priority vs. wireless OR Wired connections. Again, I didn't delve into the white papers/tech specs on it too far....

Brake cleaner....best cleaner out, and it dries quickly as well.

Do a search...there are a lot of people that have problems with the Ricky Stator units, ESPECIALLY the 200 W units. I just went over 4 pages by searching for Ricky Stator. Lots of bad reviews....

Compression RATIO is actually the key to figuring out if you need race or pump fuel, cranking PSI is a start...but you could have a nasty drag port and only have 150 cranking PSI but still need race fuel...just an example. Once you start to get to high in compression, the cylinders will fight themselves...not what you want for long runs. But for short runs, it's ok.... More compression puts stress on the rotating assembly as a whole, timing...not so much. You also should have the crank trued and welded before you think about really putting the compression to it. I've seen plenty stockers separate...on stock compression and timing. Once it separates, UGLY things happen real quick.

That's ONLY because you haven't had their kettle corn yet.... :yelrotflmao: