dajogejr

That spring sits in a cavity, it probably popped out...gonna have to drain the fluid and possibly pull off the clutch assembly to get at it.

Less than 50 for a pair, shipped. (I don't carry outerwears, though...) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...172270&rd=1

With the two cub motors I've built...I can tell you this. They love timing, they love compression, and they love fuel...period.

They're nice...ask about Tyson's front end hybrid conversion. Our buddy has one...and it's sweet. I think it's single a arm...and it might just be what you're talking about....

I had a set of rolled ones last year, guy in France bought them. Did the EXACT same thing you did...cut 'em and rewelded them to fit his street bike. It was pretty sweet....

Call Wicked, And BE SURE to tell them you're running an air box. I'd bet they tell you to remove that...let it breathe...

A near 50 HP 4 poke is one helluva fun ride for sure... You can do just about anything with it other than serious drag racing. Dune, trail...putz, etc. nice numbers!

Before I worried about the chain slider, clutch cable, etc. I'd be starting here: "I also found out that my air boots were were leaking so my pistons could have burned up a little. I want to see if I have a port job or stock cylinders because then I wont need to port." Bearings, bushings, cables...all minor and cheap stuff. Figure the motor out first.

Make sure both case half gasket surfaces are clean, and apply a liberal coat to BOTH halfs, then mate them together and tighten them. As said, Yamabond 4 or Hondabond 4 (if you can find it) or any other fuel proof semi-drying gasket will work, like the three bond types above. RTV will cause issues....

I would stop listening to anyone that said turning a motor over by hand can seat rings..... You need the motor running, and the force of the explosion to push the rings outward to seat. Not to mention, you keep doing that...it'll scrape the oil off the cylinders, then it's metal on metal. Top and lower ends of two stroke rely 100% on their fuel to get lubrication.... that's why if you start a methanol bike on ether (cold weather, etc.) do NOT rev it up until it's been running for a few seconds. Let it get some methanol/oil into the motor first.... I warm it up once or twice, warm it up and go for a quick ride shifting through the gears to make sure everything is tight, etc. Then warm it up and beat the piss out of it.

Get a USED stock stator and put it on. This does not sound like a jetting issue... WHen a bike heats up, electrical problems arise. Are you losing any coolant? Pull your flywheel off and shake it like a maraca....you should hear NOTHING. If you hear something jingling around inside the flywheel, replace it. After two stock output Ricky Stator stators on my drag bike (read, no rain, mud, etc.) in two years, both dying just before the year warranty was up, I threw the last one in the trash. Didn't even bother calling for a warranty or refund. That fed up. I got a rusty, old, beat up looking stocker that is running like a champ on there... And as said, check your flywheel gap. .015 to .018 is where I like to run mine. Also check wires on the bike for fraying or bare ground out wires.... Bypass kill switches if you can, too....

Send AZCUSTOMQUADS a PM as well... He's in AZ and makes some nice stuff, his chrome always looks good too!

I have a 10 mil cub that I launch in 2nd on....with a 16 up front. 15/41 to 43 will probably be your ticket...

I know who Dave Noss is... I went to his site too, and frequently do...and never saw a clutch kit, that's why it struck me stupid. FAST clutch rocks...period.

I wasn't aware NOSS made a clutch kit. Did you mean BOSS? And the answer is no...any aftermarket clutch kit, you throw those cushion rings out (the ones that go on the inside diameter of the fibers....

I agree 100%. Stock or stockish motors with only cc'd domes or heads...compression tester is good for two fold, measuring the health/wear of an engine if done when new and again as used...and a good idea for fuel needs...but not bible. When you start to get into aggressive porting, aftermarket cylinders, etc....then you have to do a little more math to be safe!

Get Stamped... Matt himself said the stamped are more consistent. The cone pipes are great....1 out of 10 sets MIGHT make more power, the stamped are the ticket.... Here's the number, I literally just called and left a voicemail. 877-707-4327

What is the compression, what is the timing, are you running methanol or gas?

Whoever gets to the end first...there's your winner...

What is your squish, and how wide is your squish band? There's a lot more to the equation on what fuel type, how much compression you can run, etc., other than dome/head cc and cranking PSI... Also... Compression ratio...that is the key. You could have a motor that has 145PSI cranking that MUST have race fuel, and a 170PSI motor that runs on pump gas...based on port heights and timings.... Compression ratio is what you should figure out.

Unless you can measure mm by eye, just looking at a port job won't do anything for you. You can tell if a stock cylinder has triple exhaust ports or boost intake ports, that's it. While everyone will ooh and ahh over a nice, clean, symmetric looking port job, that means nothing. I've seen cylinders that look hacked up run like a top, and "pretty" cylinders look like total shit...

This 4 mil motor flat out rips...you forgot to mention it's ported by Nate McCoy.... Anytime I've done business with Shayne it's always better than expected, he sells NO junk, period. Good luck to ya....

I am very impressed with the lengths you have gone to get this dialed in...very nice. I would not know where to start with a single carb setup, however....and such a big carb, 38mm, might cause you issues. A pair of 35s or a single 35s might be a better start for you. That small of a pilot does seem odd, especially feeding two cylinders.

Thank you for putting this BS in images instead of off topic or roosting room. I want to see chrome bikes, wild paint jobs, shredding a track or titties.... Keep this on topic please.....

No where legal. Unless you know someone with Private Property...Mt. Morris is probably the closest legal place to ride, ORV park wise...and it sucks. I'd rather ride Gladwin or the trail system by Peacock, MI.