dajogejr

You will need some additional porting when it comes to the Twister. It does not run as good out of the box or "cleaned up" as a cub....

15/42 to 15/44 launch in second. With a 10 over swinger, you're going to want a 12 paddle extreme IMO.

What is done to the motor. What kind of tires, what kind of surface? What size rear tires. And...as said, what gear are you launching in?

I've got an email into them...they've replied...waiting on a call. I want to discuss their products, etc....for a viable aftermarket stator replacement company. OEMs are gonna dry up one day....

Get a new inner and outer. they're less than 50 from the dealer. What mods are done to your bike?

I've seen plenty of 10 mil cubs run right with 10 mil Cheetahs, which have the bigger intakes and bigger pistons.... Yep...DM should be faster, but as said, big cost difference.

Damn Ray... You have two MINT flywheels on there I'm thinking about just to keep as spares....hmmm...

My guess is the dyna box, it advances the curves more than the stock CDI... When I built my 4 mil cub, I bought ALL new ignition, Stator, CDI and Coil... I've since gone back to my OEM CDI and Stator...but have never had a problem with the coil.

Cam...I read it somewhere else and to be honest, I don't remember where. Kept it stored up there in the brain cells I haven't killed.... Buddy lost drain plug on the trails. Obviously, we towed him back to camp to not damage the tranny (after spitting some out...not like the tranny would've gone far anyways...) But put a spark plug in, broke off some of the porcelin so it wasn't sticking out, then filled it up and finished out a weekend (day and a half left ) of riding.... A drive to a hardware store or a dealer for a replacement plug was WAY out of the question...we HAD to ride...LOL.

measure your current one, if it's toasted...get a spark plug (Yes..they are teh same size, I'm not kidding) and measure it. Most auto supply houses will have self tapping oversized drain plugs. If it's totally Fubar'd...they make rubber plugs that expand to seal the hole as you tighten them.

What is your budget, start there.

Didn't realize Denny carried/stocked them...nice.

That's all you needed to say... A&S and RDZ build some of the sickest OEMs out there (Rudy @ Port Magic seems do pretty good, too... )

Yep...for a dual setup, I'll 3rd what these guys said...that main is probably WAY fat...

Throw a stock stator back on to check for the high end miss...if it does the SAME exact thing, it's the jetting. But if you have an electrical/ignition problem, you can spend eternity trying to jet the bike with no results...

I use the slingshot...and have no issues with it whatsoever... I do not have the under stock cover, I already had a modded side cover...so it was non-issue for me. I'm 250, drag race in sand...and I tried this lockup with one row of ball bearings, the bike did not like it. I was just experimenting... I have a 10 mil cub on alky, btw... Kevin Gigot, who makes the lockup is a great guy...and this is a great product. I've used it all season, hundreds of passes...not a single issue. You must make sure the clearances are correct and within spec, but Kevin Herr or Kevin Gigot can very easily tell you how to check that and what to do if it needs to be adjusted. My sidecover was epoxied about 3 times and I got tired of the leaking...I finally got it welded a few months ago...no issues since.

1-5 duneable override is the way to go. If you only, ONLY run 300 foot sand, 2-5 is best, but....if you decide to go to pavement, or the dunes and run a 400, 500 or longer race...you'll need 5 gears.... I run 300ft 98% of the time, but...when I go to the ice, it sure is nice to have 1st gear. 1-4 will work, but for launching hard in 1st gear, it is tough due to how low the ratio is. I can get you the best deal on the net on override tranny's... I've had a 1-5 N down dunable in mine for 2 years, flawless....

Two things... Are you sure the impeller is working? And...let me know when you're ready for that oversized radiator...

Your caps lock privileges have been revoked....

Me too. Take a 1/2 piece of flat bar, maybe 1/4 thick. Mark the center point of the stock mounting location, the center spot of the nology location, drill...mount.

I disagree...you set the mixture screw for the proper air/fuel ratio. I agree it works until 1/8 throttle. But...once the mixture is correct, then you set the appropriate idle speed (1400 to 1800 RPM). When the mixture screw is set correctly, you will get your highest idle, but then you adjust the idle screw to the appropriate RPMs. From what you wrote (or how I read it) you're telling him to set the idle speed screw for the mixture....like I said, how I read it. That is incorrect...if that is what you're saying.... Sorry if I'm misquoting or misunderstanding what you're typing.

Download tab mix plus for firefox. You can control how/when it opens new tabs... You can open new tabs when you click on a link outside of the site you're on, when you click on a book mark...etc... I've been using firefox for years....it's the bomb....

WHAT???? The slide stop screws adjust the idle speed and have nothing to do with the air/fuel mixture from the air screw...or did I read that wrong??

Jet kits are a 100% total waste of time, in my opinion... There is a great jetting thread stickied to the top of the jetting and exhaust forum...read up!!!

My rule of thumb...1 main jet size for every 1000 feet. Maybe 1/4 to 1/2 a turn on the air screw for 1000 feet. If it's spot on now, put one size leaner main in, turn the air screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn out, see how it likes it. When you start to get high in elevation, bumping up the compression and timing bring back some of that lost power as well.