Eric Krupp

Got the bulbs in yesterday and rewired it lastnight using the tailight circuit for the low beams. Everything is working great. With my prior hook up the duners took a second to fire up so when you would switch from low too high it was dark for a second. Doesn't sound like a big deal but it is when your blasting down a gravel road doing 60 at midnight. That is a long second! Using the tail light curcuit, the lows never go off so you always have light. Throws a ton of light and I can steer the lows. Awesome!!

I ride alot of wooded trails so the handle bar lights are great but I also ride alot of gravel at high speeds so I was trying to get all the lights working at the same time. 2 Reasons: as much light as possible and the ability to turn the lights down when I meet another vehicle. I am probably going to leave it as is. I had a bulb burn out and I was seeing if there was any room for improvement while I was messing with it. Not real hip on tearing into the wiring harness I just re-did about 6 months ago. I think I will leave it alone.

I will definitely be pulling less amps. I already have the RS stator and regulator as well. I am going to run into an issue if I split the tailight lead and run three lights instead of one? Not sure if I am going to see a resistance issue.

I was trying to figure who knew what they were talking about on here so I looked up your and other member's profiles and I think there was a Face Book link or something. Sorry for digging too deep, I just wanted to make sure who to listen too. If your not careful on here you will get a reply from someone who knows less than myself. Ended up with 200 main EEJ Bottom Clip Bike runs great and plugs show good color. I think I finally got it. Thanks.

I went throught the same thing a few weeks ago and could never get a straight answer. I bought a K&N A/F meter but never installed it. Ended up doing it the old fashioned way, trial and error. Listed all my mods and listened to the feed back. Make sure you are listening to someone on here with the same mods you have and some experience.

I read some of your other posts concerning electrical and DC conversions and I knew you were going to hit me with that one. I may leave it as is. I think I may be opening a can of worms and everything is fine as is. I was thinking I could use the tail light circuit because it is on for high and low beams. Thanks, Eric

You are correct, I do want to run all 4 on high beam but I am actually cutting the wattage from from 200 down to 180 by changing the duner bulbs from 100 watts each down to 55 watts each. Current High Beam 100watts X 2 Total 200 watts Proposed High Beam 55 X 2 110 watts 35 X 2 70 watts Total 180 watts Am I missing something? What about splitting the tail light circuit? It is constant. I will check into the DC conversion.

I have been running the current configuration for about 8-9 years with no problems and my current set up is pulling 100 watts per bulb on high. By dropping the Duners down to 55 watts each and hooking up TT's I would only be pulling 180 watts total instead of 200. I am actually dropping the wattage on high but using all 4 lights. That's my theory anyway??? I have had no problems with the factory switch I am just not sure how to make the TT's work on both low and high beam.

Current Set Up Low Beams/ Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs High Beams/ RS Duner 100 watt Bulbs Max Low Beam Wattage-70 watts Max High Beam Wattage-200 watts Proposed Set Up Low Beams/ Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs High Beams/ RS Duner 55 watt Bulbs and Trail Tech 35 watt bulbs Max Low Beam Wattage-70 watts Max High Beam Wattage-180 watts My question is can I wire my factory switch to run the only the TT's on Low Beam and the TT's and the RS Duner's on High Beam? I would actually be running less total wattage on High than I am currently running with the 100 watt Duner bulbs.

That is another hard one to explain verbally. I may try going way up and down on my jets to see if I can figure out the difference. The bike is actually running better than it ever has. I am extremely close but I want to figure this stuff out for myself so I know. It pulls hard from bottom to top with a slight hesitation in the middle but most people wouldn't notice it. It is screaming. I really appreciate the help. I noticed on your profile that you are into Wakeboarding also. If you ever get to Missouri in the summer time look me up and I'll let you ride my Air Chair. It rates right up there with wringing a Banshee out.

Mark, This is something else that I find very confusing. Explain the difference, please. Can sound files be posted on this website? Maybe someone could record a sound bite of the difference for a reference. Video would be even better but I am sure we would hit a size limit. Eric

Okay, hold on! Set Up #1 200 Main EEK 2nd From Top 48 Pilot Bogged bad at 1/4 throttle. Would all but die if you held it there. Set Up #2 200 Main EEK 2nd From Top 52 Pilot Still bogged but much better. Read your post suggesting an EEJ Needle and 40-42 pilot. Set Up #3 200 Main EEJ 2nd From Top 42 Pilot Bogged slightly at 1/2 throttle but seemed much snappier. Set Up #4 200 Main EEJ 2nd From BOTTOM 42 Pilot Ran really well. Plugs started to show color but slightly wet still. Set Up #5 190 Main EEJ 2nd From BOTTOM 42 Pilot Runs extremly well. Plugs showing good color after a 3-4 mile hard run. Pulls hard all the way to the top. That all transpired today. I may do a plug chop tomorrow on my mains to see what I'm getting to be safe. Explain your "feel" theory to me. I would like to understand. It seems to me it would be real easy to get it lean since lean is usually faster. Not argueing against it just want to know different theories. Also, would I be better off going to a richer needle and moving the clip to the top so I have more adjustment for temperature drops? If so which needle would I go too? I am definitly much closer, bike is running good and plugs are shaping up. Thanks.

I ran it as I specified this morning; 200 Main EEK 2nd from top 48 Pilot 1 1/2 out Bogged bad at 1/4 throttle, bike would almost die if you kept it there. Brought it back and put a 52 pilot 1 1/2 turns out and bogg went away. Would the EEJ richen it up 1/4 slightly? That damn Keihin Needle chart is easily confused in my opinion. Another question; should my plug chops all look the same at the various throttle positions? 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, WOT? Or will the smoke band vary at the different positions. The way I understand it is that it should be 2mm at every position. I am going to rip it back down and go with your suggestions; 42 Pilot EEJ 2nd from top 200 Main I am listening to your directions.

That is kind of what I wanted to hear. I think I may have been compensating for a small pilot with a fat needle and main. I have changed to the following and will test as soon as it stops raining. I think I am over analyzing the entire procedure. Main 200 Needle EEK 2nd from top Pilot 48 1 1/2 out Gonna chop the mains and see what I have now. I'll send pics. Thanks for the help, I REALLY appreciate it!

That was a small sampling of what I have done. Here is the entire pile. I think I am going to try a 40 Pilot, EEK Needle and a 200 Main and see where that puts me. The base ring color in the second picture is what is stumping me. The plug chops look alright but the base ring color never gets any darker. Could something else be affecting this like timing?