dajogejr

Thank you.....I was reading this thread waiting till someone posted this... sag is gonna vary based on weight and angle/load of the shock...

Ouch...thought that was going somewhere else, like a "they grab more food" joke...LOL. I can see them being a viable option on a bike that will get spilled more, etc., and the break away feature...but on my banshees, I'll take the FAST setup.

Never used Fly, but I've rode bikes with the ASV...just didn't like the feel or look of them. I got big paws...and they felt like they had real small/short levers....

Same one I've used for going on 4 years now. Do yourself a favor, get a new clutch cable while you're at it. They're 10 to 15 bucks.... You will be amazed how easy your clutch pull can be with a new cable and an EZ pull perch...and I normally run 6HD springs on my clutch as well... Pulls like a brand new 125cc dirt bike, like butta!!!!

This is why you always do a compression check brand new, without even firing the bike. I'd bet the pistons are fine....one of a few things: 1. Piston to wall clearance is out of spec 2. The domes aren't the right size (larger than 17cc, like a 21 or 22cc) In that case...it's fine 3. BOTH compression testers are wrong, or you did the test incorrectly... While I agree 17cc should need race fuel, 110 all the way....I would find it very hard to believe you damaged both pistons THE SAME and it's equally as low on both... I'm leaning heavily towards 2...with a little 3 thrown in for good measure. .055 is a little big for a small bore motor, but...it should produce a LOT more than 135 if it were 17cc domes. I run .055 in my motor, but I also have a bigger bore, more timing, stroked crank and I run alky on an aftermarket cylinder...with 180 to 185PSI on 20cc domes. Before you worry too much, drain the coolant by removing the lower rad hose from the water pump cover, and pull the head off. There will be an arrow on top the pistons, they need to be pointing toward the exhaust.

There you go...I want to say one loop is 22 to 25 miles, the other is 42 to 47....an absolute blast to ride. That was the last time I was trail riding, back in 2005....

It's at/near peacock, MI. I don't know the trail head name...sorry...

DNR website is the best place to find legal areas. Bull gap, Mt Morris, silver Lake, Gladwin are the norm spots. There is a place by Cadillac that is AWESOME...big trail loops... St. Helen is another... But if you're asking for a close by, legal area...good luck. The jackasses that rip up and down public roads with no helmet, etc., have ruined it for us....running from the police, kid shit like that.

bigger pic would help...hard to see that one.

My buddy has everything from cheetah cylinders to chromed foot pegs in his garage, everything in between...that's why I'm asking what you actually need or are looking for. I could probably write 10 paragraphs with his inventory....

It is there for a reason, probably to deflect tranny fluid sloshing around to a part that needs it. Leave it.

Working on a list of parts that you might be interested in trade. Anything else you could want/need?

How close the piston comes to the band, too close, BOOM...too loose (which may or may not be your case) and it'll have crap performance.

Give him the Detroit FBI address. Or a Pizza place...whichever... His Jarms on that picture are aftermarket, not one solid piece as a stocker, it is a J Arm, non the less. Just sell him A Arms with a no-refund note. F him...

Sure.. Everyone that I know that uses it is either a dealer or friend of a dealer (or friend of a friend) apparently, if you have a pulse, you can be a dealer. I've tried their tranny fluid/gear oil which was supposed to make my bike shift like butter...junk (This was my stock motor, stock port, bolt on banshee...not a cub motor, drag bike) switched back to Good old gear saver 80W....shifted fine. Tried their ATF in the tranny...clutch slipped. Back to the gear saver... I tried it both times because the buddy said is was better than sliced bread...only to have him eat his words in person when he rode my bike with "his" oil in it. I've mixed it at 32:1 all the way to 50:1 in weed eaters and 2 stroke lawn boy lawnmowers.... Fouled plugs after a couple weeks use.... Put the old stuff back in, no issues... I used and tried it only because a friend got me good pricing on it. You get what you pay for....

My buddy stopped by and played some Mario Kart on my Wii the other week. Let me see if he is interested...

If you traded it last year, you damn near could get a whole bike for it...LOL Let me rephrase... What do you need? What games do you have?

What kind of parts are you looking for?

Garbage...

27 below F for Engine Ice. http://www.engineice.cc/ I would drain the gas and oil from the gas tank and drain the carbs. Put fresh gas and oil in it once you're gonna ride it....

Sell him a non-refundable set of A Arms..... Just keep the customer satisfied....then subscribe his email to a bunch of porn sites....

Thanks for the offer, Bronco...but with Lake St. Clair 25 minutes away and a lot of my buds being out there every weekend both days, hard for me to justify that much driving, etc..... Never know...maybe!

Yep..just make sure you add more fluid since it will increase the capacity. 2 qts.

That window is actually bigger than the stock Yamaha insert... I know you can buy a billet plug to cut your stock cover, then weld/epoxy it in..but you want the window.... Call Direct Drive and see if they'll sell you just the insert and window.

Pull your reeds and check them...but to get exactly 135 in each cylinder tells me your reeds would have to be as bad as each other....rare. Do a squish test. Take a piece of solder (I use the resin core) in a shape of an L, stick it down the spark plug hole towards the left or right side of the cylinder (NOT front or back) and using your hand, kick the bike over once. It will smash the solder, get a micrometer, measure how much the solder is "Squished"... Report back. I use .095 resin core solder...