dajogejr

Happy T day buddy.. I'll keep my ears out. Big/Small bore, Big/small flange?

It depends on how well each of them actually can ride.... A dirt bike weights about half a banshee in stock or near stock trim. Last I checked, I think a banshee is 380 something dry....a CRF bike is 230ish.... 150lbs is HUGE in a drag race, trust me.

You can get a new tranny, complete with gear clusters, drum, shift forks and fork rods for 200 or under. Figure another 100 for gaskets, fluids, etc. (that's a high estimate....) While you got it that far down, and since you're splitting the cases, buy a 20 or 30 dollar seal kit and replace them all...

Location, Location, Location.... Check out Craigslist and local truck/bike traders in your specific area. Junk that has gone for 1500 here in MI goes for double that in California...just for an example. It's worth as much as someone is gonna pay for it in your area, unless you want to ship it (figure 500 to 800 to ship it)

In NGK world, you are 100% correct. They are the only ones I know of that use higher numbers for colder heat range plugs. Champion, Denso, Autolite to name a few, all use higher numbers for hotter heat range plugs.... AK... I'm pretty sure you don't need to explain to me what glazing of a plug is, how it's caused...but maybe you should read up on heat range plugs from NGK..since you did mention a 9 series as apposed to the hotter 8 that comes stock. Other things to check once you rule out electrical problems are drain all the gas, remove the fuel valve from the tank and clean the fuel screens. You'd be amazed over the years how much crap gets plugged in them. The last time I had a bike that rev'd out clean and good in neutral (no load) then fell on it's face when put in gear had a nasty air leak at the base gasket and a dip inbetween the cylinders leaking coolant. (Aftermarket, mono-block cylinder) Without going over your whole post again, here's what you need to do for TORS Elimination. Clip the wires at the throttle, unplug both ends from the tops of the carb caps, unplug and remove the "brain" under the gas tank, ignition side of the bike, and unplug the parking brake (which...sounds like is already done and I missed that part) Next thing you'll need to do is remove the gas tank and plastics and trace your harnesses down for a burnt or broken wire....shorting things out. Clean connections to the coil, run an extra ground wire from the engine to the frame/coil mount... Then you're gonna get into the weird stuff, like a broken, frayed or rubbed wire behind the flywheel/stator... Have you replaced the spark plug ends that go over the cap. Factory ones are KNOWN to go bad. 4 or 5 dollar NGK caps fix that as well.

I'm pretty sure his plug isn't glazed...and changing default plug heat ranges isn't going to solve his problem. It's either a TORS/Electrical issue or an air leak. I'd bet if he disconnects the wiring plug going to the parking brake, it'll be just fine.

WHAT????

Somebody's gotta spur the economy....go for it...

It's the one year anniversary of his death. I bet it's a BS post....probably not even his shit....

Wow....I forgot what they were selling.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sQ5fAccessories

Stoners beware...your price just went up just in time for the holidays... http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/18146612/detail.html

Yes...just had to give you a little bit of a hard time B...

I agree with you, up until that point. the factory bikes run better not only because they have good mechanics...it's because they have no budget. Go to a store and try to buy a set of forks identical to what Bubba Stewart runs. You can't. They cost 50 to 60K. They are not available to the public...bits and pieces are....but you can not make nor buy them. I know they passed a production rule in 1995...no one adheres to it because each is afraid of being called out for cheating by the other. Now this is basics for moto and Super Cross...but the same holds true for most sports. I know the factory mechanics are good, but like anything, starting out with better tools, equipment and a bottomless budget never hurt... It's not all the mechanic, not by a long shot.

Well...that makes a little more sense...LOL... Call Sprocket Specialists. they can make/machine any kind of sprocket you can dream of.

Put your CDI and regulator under the seat in the plastics where the toolbox would go... I don't have a regulator, but that's where my CDI is.

Rubberneck, you have a PM.

Either that...or he installed the wrong type of bearing carrier or a 250R style swingarm...

Geez.... On any other day you'd be giving this stuff away at those prices Tim...but because of today's economy....I hope you can move it. These are great deals on this stuff...I'll keep my ears peeled for you...

His spark is fine or else it wouldn't start perfect when warm.... Electrical parts tend to fail when it's warmed up...not cold.

trent..if you're at or near sea level, and you're sure the compression tester is valid and the test is done right, yes...it's time. A machine shop can measure the piston and measure the cylinder bore and tell you if you need rings, rings and pistons, bore, hone...whatever.... When my bike got to about 110 PSI...it was 5 to 10 kicks to start, it was tired....

Nope...not 100%. Stinger tube diameter looks little big...but, tough to tell from that pic. Don't take my word for it...please.

Yep, Shearer all the way. They look like one out each side...big bore....

Of course you didn't say anything about Chris...you are too busy minding his "step children" as you were blowing him. The last time you guys ran your mouth you got called out and look(ed) like fools. I'm not about to rehash that.... You took a shot, I gave one back. Get over it....

They are not China junk, I can promise you that 100%. They are not from China...period. I can also promise you just about everyone in the industry gets their boots from the same place....

Please post a picture of what you're talking about... I have the larger (two piece) billet intakes from BOSS. (No crossover tube) On my intakes...they are Mikuni boots, they have the VM part number on them. I have never run the smaller intakes (with crossover)... baddshee...can you look on the rubber intake boots on yours and look for a part number...please. It will start with either I-VM or VM as the part number if it is Mikuni boots.