dajogejr

Drag Race guys do this so they don't have to remove the foot pegs when the take out the motor. It is more common for us

J... I think you're gonna find out, as I did, these overrides AND regular cut overrides are not as tempermental as everyone says. People wanted to err on the side of caution. Whitaker is still working the kinks out on a 1-6 dunable override, but I'm pretty sure he said that was in the 900 dollar range. These 1-5 are less than half that. I've seen a 1-6 cut tranny. I can see why it costs so much money. It is very, very intricate and there is a TON more work into them. True, you will be missing 6th gear. For the 300 foot guys, that's nothing. For the pavement guys or duners who actually ride it open like that...you have a few options. You can get a tranny cut 1-4 and manual 5&6, or you can launch in 1st and figure out your gearing to get the speed/top end out of 5th gear. 6th gear on a stock banshee tranny is very, very tall. Unless you have one HELLUVA motor, it is hard to pull and actually remain pulling in sand. In my opinion, and yeah...I've seen your vids, I think a dunable override will hold up fine for you. If the shifting starts getting screwy...you might have to replace shift forks every other year. And that's a BIG Maybe. Whitaker says he has guys that race TT with his motors (always on and off the gas) and their shift forks last a season plus... I personally will never own another shee without this tranny, period. They're that good!

In my opinion, after assembling a single motor with a bad air leak a simple leak test would've found, it is 100% critical.

You can add an extra steel on this magnum, or a stock basket. but to run an 8 disk setup (fiber) you need a different basket and inner hub. That's not factory on the hinson either unless you specifically purchase that setup... Unless you have a dragster, you don't need more plates than the stocker.

Unless you plan on winding them all the way out in 4th and 5th gear, letting off the gas at max RPMs and letting the motor slow the bike down, it'll last you for a LONG time. Using the engine to decelerate the bike repeatedly at high RPMs will wear the shift forks faster, that's right from Whitaker...who cuts more trannies than anyone.... I don't have a duner bike, mine is strictly drag. But I'd have no qualms about building a duner with that tranny. 1-5 N down is the way to go...most versatile for duning and drag racing.

You're taking a competition style dirt bike that gets refined a bit every year, year after year. Then a 20 plus year old design that gets new graphics every year... There is just more money in R&D for the CR, period. What you can do is buy an adjustable shifter, that can move the shift nub closer to the peg. That will cut down on "some" of the travel. A banshee doesn't have nor will it ever have the technology a CR has...or any two wheeled competition bike, two or 4 stroke. I'd bet there are 100 bikes sold for every banshee sold/ridden today.

My best advice is to try one thing at a time...best of luck to ya...

Word. Stock inner and outer hubs work just fine. All I've used for the past few years. And they're cheap...around 50 bucks give or take for inner and outer. I have and bought my Magnum basket from Jeff...and it's been trouble free for 3 years of abuse on a 4 mil cub duner and now two years on a 10 mil cub alky drag bike. The magnum and BOSS are not the same basket....I've never run a BOSS basket, so I can't speak of how they last/work.

Is it a stock head, milled head or aftermarket head. If it's stock..and you're at or near sea level and you used a quality compression gauge, that compression is great. If it has smaller domes or a shaved head...not so great. I would check the electrical system, they tend to show problems when it's hot. I would first look at the plug caps. They are known to go bad. Check for loose/burned or bare wires grounding out. Does the bike have the TORS system still on it? Unplug it on top of the carbs, below the gas tank on the shifter side and disconnect the parking brake (actually, a 95 might not have a parking brake wire...not 100% sure on that...) Sounds electrical. It doesn't sound like reeds. Either they are good or bad. Usually, it'll backfire/pop if a reed is broken or chipped.

My point was a butterfly valve and a slide are completely different in both design and operation...and a flat blade piece of metal is more prone to freezing than a slide. I would be looking for water in the fuel, a bent needle, a burr on the inside of the housing where the slide is..etc. I understand the whole venturi thing, it's purpose...design, etc. Lectron even designed a HV (high velocity) type carb for two reasons... One...for use in competitions where smaller ID carbs were regulated. The airbox/boot side was 4mm larger than the intake side, but necked down in the middle even further for the ID limits..then opened back up on the intake side.... As well as speeding up the air/fuel intake charge into a larger motor that didn't have as strong of a pickup signal.

Just put a penny between the crank and clutch gear and use an impact. the soft copper won't damage the gears.

Yep...that's a great price... I bought my tensioner from James Lucky ATV. With shipping, etc., it's the same price.

Nice deals...

Good peeps for sure... Jeff and Jeremy are some of the coolest cats at the track and the campfire after....

165 main (safe because it's cold), CEL needle and 50 pilots. On my 4 mil cub, race fuel, I'm pretty sure I had 48 pilots, CEL needle and 150 or 152 mains.

Nothing to be concerned about. But... While it's torn down this far, why don't you have the cylinders and pistons measured for wear. If it's time or close to being time, freshen it up while it's apart....

Yep...Motion Pro...they're 200 to 300 bucks. Or...you can hit up R&B Porting out of MI, he makes a nice home made kit that has everything you need. http://groups.msn.com/RBRacingTwoStrokePorting I think his leak down tester is under 60 shipped... Or, you can build your own, RNBRAD created a thread on here on what parts to buy, hunt down, etc.

Unless you bring a generator to the track, trail or dunes...a GOOD name brand cordless is the way to go. I have an 18V Dewalt impact...the only thing I won't use it for is the flywheel nut. I should say, the only thing I won't use it for AGAIN is the flywheel nut...LOL. OOOPS.... For tires, sprocket changes, etc...cordless impacts are the bomb, flat out.

Having a hard time figuring out what's done to your motor...since I have to weed through line by line of your sig, including the allen bolt kit ...and a red tusk breather hose... With a FAST Dune port, 4 mil stroker and a 4 over arm...it should turn those tires NO problem....

Where are you getting a set of matoon billet cases for 1G to 1200? I need to know... The DMs are running better than the cubs. They also require a LOT more work for cases as well as you need to buy everything except the crank. Pipes, intakes, reeds, head, etc... The strength of the cubs is what bolts on and is more easily/readily available for a reasonable price.... I thought about a 10 mil DM...but, for a few hundred bucks I can put a 20 to 30 shot on my bike and be right there...

Word... The only bad thing about a lockup and override is it truly ruins every other bike you ride going forward... It's like banging Marissa Miller for a year, then going back to Rosie ODonnel....

Since you already have the T5 pipes, keep them. Otherwise, I'd tell you to get whichever you found for a better deal, 5's or 6's. They both work fine on stock or ported motors. You just have to tell your builder/porter which you're using.

Compression ratio, NOT cranking compression dictates the need for more/less octane. If the motor is on stock porting...and you're sure of this, make it easy. Over 160PSI, run straight race fuel, under, run 92 or 93 octane. You're going to hear guys that say they have 180 to 200 PSI and run pump gas, guys that have 140PSI and swear they need race fuel.... The only sure way is to measure the compression ratio, that is how fuel is measured to be knock-resistant. Big advances in timing require more octane, but compression is more needy than timing....

Depending on what ALL is done to the engine, etc., could be still lean on the jetting, could have other mechanical problems.... Mid 90's bike with a 88 engine, who knows what else has been frankenstein'd onto the bike..