dajogejr

Ahhh...gotcha. Ok...in that case, turn each air screw in 1/2 a turn...and with the chokes, it should start just fine... I'd drain that gas out and put fresh in before you run in the warm weather....and shake the bike a little before you start it to mix the fuel/oil. It tends to separate a little in colder weather....

Please at the least check your plugs and if needed, richen up your jetting. Many a man has leaned out their bike flying around in the cold and locked up or broke a motor....for a few bucks worth of plugs and jets...which could've prevented it.

Smell the gas in the tank. If it has a turpentine type smell to it...put fresh gas in the tank and drain the carbs.

JT ran his 4 mil on 155 to 160 PSI all day and it ripped. And I think he maxed the plate out. However...this is a duner, not a strict drag bike. Where is the squish at? I like a looser squish but smaller dome. I also run a LOT more timing. For a duner, I would keep the compression below 180PSI...and timing at 7 or below. For this particular motor....you can't go by NOSS's chart. It is ported....and his chart only goes to 5000 feet.

Leaving the gas on or off should have nothing to do with it. Colder air requires more fuel. Try turning both air screws in .5 to 1 turn...and try again. You did pull the choke out all the way, right? And change the plugs, just for the hell of it. If you're riding in much colder weather, it's a good idea to richen up the main jet as well...if it was dialed in when it was warm. How old is the gas/oil in the tank?

Very nice Brandon. Just goes to show you...this is how debates and discussions should be done...no name calling, just facts and opinions from experience mixed in. Funny you should mention the bearing on the drum. Whitaker is doing that...and since my engine is being torn down, checked, freshened up and ported, I'm putting a drum that has been machined and a bearing put on it. I've never had a shifting issue with my bike...but this certainly is a mod that has ZERO down sides. I agree...there is a long shift throw for the banshee trans... You can get a little shorter shifter to help a little. Some guys with drag frames or relocated foot pegs (located further rearward) cut and weld shorter shifters as well. I can 100% see your point in offering this for bikes/models with no overrides being offered from them....or...pavment guys with smaller motors that need all 6 gears. Currently...full 6 speed overrides are offered...but are still very temperamental. And this is a helluva lot easier and less expensive than override straight cut gears...etc.

Look into Plastic Renew. IF YOU USE it properly and prep properly, it actually works. I used it on my beat up 12 year old plastic front end, and it looked pretty good. Remember PREP WORK is everything for that stuff.

That is a smoking deal on the carbs and all those jets. If someone wanted to stay with stockers, had damaged, stripped out, etc. with all those jets...that's awesome!! Good luck!

2001... Sometimes you're gonna have to have some faith in people that not only talk the talk, but walk the walk. In my humble opinion, putting a 10 mil stock or aftermarket cylinder motor together without at least a dunable override AND lockup would be pointless. I'm sure most, not all, would agree with that statement. When you take a transmission and clutch and expose it to 3 times (or more) the HP and Torque it was designed to handle...you will quite easily find it's limits. I know you're not a drag racer, etc. But... If you're going to build a motor with that kind of power, wouldn't you like to be able to use it...and get it to the ground? A stock tranny and clutch aren't gonna do that on any 10 mil....again, in my opinion. Also remember, typing and reading on a forum don't show attitude, sarcasm or intent sometimes. If he flat out called you an asshole MF'er SOB, etc., I'd be with you 100%. He just made a statement you haven't been around bigger motor bikes, that's all. Which...I agree...as well as you do. I come off as a complete and total asshole on here all the time. Partly because I don't sugar coat everything. I know I come off as brash...stuck up....etc. Those that actually know me would tell you I'm 100% down to earth and here to help. No biggie....best of luck to ya either way.

Sorry I'm late to this party.... I have a Chromed Chariot Head. I did have to sand just a hair off the domes I got from Patriot Racing. A few guys had issues with the head around here, Chariot Promptly replaced them because of an issue. I purchased two heads off him, one for me that I still currently use...and one for NYUK. Both of these were purchased with his older style of head nuts. Without any question, he sent me two sets of the new, 14mm chrome heavy duty acorn nuts and new brass washers, simple as that. I can tell you he stands behind his products 100% and is a helluva nice guy. That being said. I know Firehead has worked or still works for race teams that have millions of dollars for R&D at their disposal. He does know his facts and can spout off engineering and test data until you fall asleep (if you haven't already....) However.... Riding banshees is not Formula 1 or Nascar. I know for a fact Chariot has worked with one of the most respected names in the business, whose work speaks for itself. A&S. In our sports, and for our needs...I will take things Dan Hull has helped design and test over what a computer tells me. As Firehead did, I applaud Chariot for coming out with some innovative products that Joe Average can afford and appreciate.

Swingarm shops on ebay make a decent arm. I agree...the stock yamaha chain adjustment is junk, but not everyone has hundreds of dollars to spend on a new arm, new carrier, brake plate...etc.

Not to mention the added cost of pistons.... But if someone had one for sale very cheap....viable option. In my opinion, it is more important to have the 115mm rod on stroker cranks than a stock stroke.

100% possible, done all the time...and more reliable. You just need what's called racer's choice pistons...or 795 series. They call it a long rod motor... It does NOT increase displacement, it changed the rod angle so the crank isn't trying to push the piston through the cylinder wall.

As mentioned,just for giggles...see if a 155 main cleans things up. But I think you're gonna need more compression...possibly more timing (I didn't read what your timing was set at...) From 1/2 to 3/4 throttle..it is mostly the needle, but...the main starts to bleed in as well.

I would think about running redline if it was more readily available AND if I had any issues running Klotz. You just can't go into a store and buy redline usually...

My thoughts are I would rather rely on mechanics that electronics...and just about anyone can cut a banshee tranny now a days. They are very popular, and their overrides are very forgiving. I do appreciate your thoughts, and would like Brandon's as well.

2001...I didn't read that as a put down to you....I read that as him saying you haven't been around bigger motor bikes. Don't worry about gregrob...he gets sand in his vagina when you talk about his self proclaimed engine gods... However, I do agree...when you really start putting the HP to the ground, no matter what you do to make the bike shift better, short of an override or solution like this...it's not going to shift half or more than half the time. I've seen it and experienced it with my own bikes. Brandon... Glad you chimed in. Why would you go with this vs. an override...be it regular or dunable. Aside from the cost factor (overrides are only 300 to 450 or so...) and I understand this box is half that...but wouldn't the mechanical setup of an override have a large advantage over this? I'm not debating....really, I'm discussing. And as always...I value your input and thoughts.

It at least has a Zilla front clip, and a zilla or 87 or newer LT250 seat. The original 85 and 86 LT250 had the square seat, all 87 and newer 250 and all zillas had the T seat. A Honda 4 poke in that frame...that was an abortion that should've happened....

Not if you have a 7 year old boost bottle.... I don't run a crossover or have intakes with the internal. Yes...I know, I drag race. When I had a trail motor, bolt on bike...I blocked them off with plugs. I have yet to see one shred of proof they do anything, other than get in the way and make it more difficult to route cables. AND create an air leak...next year or 7 years from now. So that being said....without having one single positive thing about them...why would anybody want to use them?

I agree 100%. IMO....amsoil is garbage. It seems like EVERYONE is an amsoil dealer or their buddy is. So you get a deal on oil because of that... I try not to base what I run/use in my bikes based on price alone....

It sounds like you've done your homework... If it starts and runs fine from idle to WOT at .024...leave it.

Pictures don't mean anything. That does look like a nice, clean, symetrical port on the intake side, but the MOST important number are ones you can't see with the eye, it has to be measured. The size, shape and height of your ports is where the power and power type is. And we're talking a mm here or there, you're not seeing that with the naked eye.... Stock cages do very well...unless you're all out drag racing, I say you stick with them. Get a good set of aftermarket reeds (if you don't already have them) and maybe get the stockers ported (clean up/smooth out) Nothing wrong with FMF pipes. The carbs may be a tad big if you're gonna MX/Trail the bike....but, the package should work. I would cc the head or domes to see where they are, measure the piston to wall clearance, ring end gap...and while you're at it...to be honest, split the cases and have the crank trued/welded if that's not already done. Splitting cases doesn't cost any money, just a tube of Yamabond 4 to seal them up. Just takes time...

Ok...I omit "dude...what planet are you on" from my original statement. No shit Dyno numbers are bullshit...but my point was to show the curve...not the number. I could care less about the number. I ride a track. My shit gets proven with lights and timers...not dyno numbers. For the type of riding that can only be found in Oregon, you'd want a more linear power band...not one that spikes so violently, I don't care if the HP number is 20 or 200.

I guess since I have a drag bike in my sig I've never owned multiple cub motors with different combo settings, never owned or rode a trail bike, never rode dunes, mud pits, sand pits, whooped trails, etc. I guess since I've never been to Oregon, they have the 100% most unique trails in the whole country, make that world. They have terrain and obstacles that can be found NO WHERE else on planet earth, and for that...their setups need to be equally as unique. Since I own and ride a drag bike, and have a ton of posts...it must be the only thing I know about. Only drag bikes...only on flat ground. I'm sorry to have wasted my thoughts and experiences with all of you....clearly, these unique individuals in the Northwest have the most challenging and different terrain that can be found anywhere in the world.

T6 pipes work just fine with built motors. Too many people dismiss T6 on built motors only because Toomey says so on his web site. Stuart Toomey didn't know what a cub was when I emailed him about 2 years ago...and couldn't tell me the spec on the needle in "his" perfect jet kit...only that it is made to "his" spec by dynojet..... Plenty on here have used T6 pipes on ported, built motors.... I would take T6 pipes on a stock or nearly stock (bolt on) over any FMF pipe any day...