dajogejr

You're forgetting a better clutch, billet basket, override and lockup.

Kick...Kick...LOL. I hope this product works out....the problem I see is someone coming on here and selling a product from a rider that claims these pistons put him in the front of the class. You know as well as I do that is not the case.... If it was a worn out motor, sure...but any other piston would do the same. I'm still curious about the measurements of their products, their pistons to be particular...

I have removed the TORS and installed the idle kits on 5 or 6 sets of carbs, never broke a tap. Use WD 40, put the carb in a vise...and never go more than 1/2 turn in without backing it back out till it's "smooth"... Cheap tap or not, aluminum is very, very soft. Every 2 turns give it more oil....

16 tooth will help, 16-44 to 47 is what I run for my 10 mil cub. Fouledout421 would disagree with your flywheel statement. He's run a lightened flywheel on his 4 mil cub for the past few seasons, it works just fine, and he's a solid 200 to 220 lbs, so no lightweight.

Put a 16 tooth up front, you need to be able to use 2nd gear, unless you're racing 100 foot.

Unless you have a ported motor for duning and drag racing, you'll like the Pro Circuits better. The Vitos are a Shearer type mid to top end RPM pipe...and work better with ported motors.

Unless you're on a closed course race track or the back 40 on your private land, use packing in your silencer... It absorbs the noise and deadens it. Your pipes are also designed to run with the back pressure the packing creates... Go to the hardware store and get a roll of corning pink panther house insulation, peel or cut the paper off and wrap the core. Done.

A sled, bike, boat and truck and going to school paying 18K a year.... I'm quitting my job, you guys hiring? :biggrin:

Never, ever put loctite on the head studs. RTV to seal them is fine, good luck getting those out should the need arise.

My advice for you is don't mistake post count for knowledge. There are members on here with less than 100 posts that have more knowledge and know how than the top 5 posters on this site (myself being number two on that list behind Loco)...

F that...I say go for it. Some of the best builders in the world, pipe makers, etc....learned by making mistakes, trial and error. I say go for it...and wish you best of luck!!

Yes...that's how you change them. I haven't priced any new carbs for gas, so I can't tell you. New, setup by the man (Dennis Packard) they are pricey. One of the reasons I feel there's not many of them out there. To be honest, you can keep turning them out...but without a measurement, you're spinning your wheels. They could be uneven...causing them to be out of sync. They could also be too long...wait for the calipers, measure them up....go from there.

Close Shayne... But the Firehead PetCock is actually smaller, less functional, more technical...but only flows bull shit. I just realized you threw a 9'er in there....are we talking on walkie talkie?? :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :biggrin:

You did...I just wanted to dispel this rumor...because numbers tend to stick in others minds more than anything...

That 450 thing is a TOTAL myth...I don't know where or who started it...but it is a myth. I can't speak for CPI....but Matt Shearer himself said the 535cc cheetah is the motor the pipe was designed for (big bore) smaller than that cc it should use a small bore pipe. I've seen sb on 10 mils and bb on stock stroke, stock bore bikes... It's builder and motor preference....

Maybe he said something about beating 450s, or he thought boring a motor .100 over made it a 450, I don't know...I've seen others claim to have a 370 with a .020 over piston kit. Regardless...32:1 is a good ratio, sythetic or conventional. Find a ratio you are going to run year round...and then jet the bike accordingly. Do NOT change your premix ratio to compensate for temp changes, etc. Jet around the fuel, don't fuel around the jet.

How does he have a better rep than Kotin? I've talked to Kotin for a long time and done plenty of business with you...he's a good guy in my book...and pretty knowledgeable as well. Just because bbc has posted more in the last few months doesn't mean he has a better rep, does it???

Dick on the brain with you....always.... :biggrin:

Nikasil for me is cheap, being exposed on the net for shitty products is priceless. I'm NOT saying they are, I'm just saying...if you want to prove your product, here's your chance.

We ride on the ice in COLD temps, have never had clutch issues and kick start issues like you mentioned.

I would not say that is 100% accurate...keeping in mind one builder's dune port is another's drag port, etc. But I would without a doubt talk to a builder who you're thinking about having port your cylinders for final say on that. Porting before the stroker, but they're best done in pairs...

I am not backing these dragon fly pistons by any means, anyone that says their pistons made this much power difference is either on crack or replaced worn out pistons with fresh ones...and yes...in that case, i can see where they made more power than a worn out old set. However... While their pistons might be made in the USA...their cranks when they were in cahoots with Hotrods were made in Taiwan. They still may be...I don't know. I can tell you the majority of crank pieces are made in Taiwan. I'd even go on a limb and say my Crankworks crank is made in taiwan, it's been trouble free for me. Just an FYI... I would like some technical specs on these pistons, such as silicon content, weight, dome rise/angle, etc. Are these a direct replacment for the 513 series, do you offer 795 series or 573 series? If you could give me measurements on a piston that will fit my cub I'd run a set to try... (573 series, 68.00 mm bore), but I'd want to be sure the dome angle was the same, wrist pin location was the same, etc....

There are two type you may be talking about. Bills pipes OR Paul Turner pipes. 500 new is about the going rate for any type of banshee aftermarket pipe. Hard to see...but these are Bill's pipes. http://www.magicracing.com/Bills-Platinum-..._232-1596.html# Paul Turner makes a mid range and HI Rev pipe: http://www.duncanracing.com/ctgy/31 Something else to think about...ask him how many other types of pipes he's ran, and...to add, pipes are only one piece of the puzzle to a healthy running bike... Toomey T5 OR T6 pipes, FMF Fatty, LRD, Pro Circuit and DMC are all fine choices as well.

I'd agree with you Kiel... From near sea level to nearly 7000 feet (or more, I'm not sure) will play absolute hell with jetting...and make it run like a fat blubbering pig.... Speaking of fat blubbering pigs.....

Get a clymers, first thing to do is make sure you're allowing a little bit of slack at the perch. Then make sure your clutch is in good working order and not smoked, then check the eccentric adjuster for your shifter. A clymers will explain all this in detail. The cable is the only thing you can do without taking the side cover off...