dajogejr

I know I'm going to sound like a pompous ass, but...that's just me. If the same mechanic put 190's in it that you're going to take it to for rejetting, find a new mechanic, seriously. All he did was GREATLY increase the chance of you blowing up the motor, and then it'll be so slow any kid can jump on it while it's parked. 190s could be a stock jet. Stock from Yamaha was 200. If a local dealer rejetted for local weather, elevation, etc., it could very well be 190. If you lived or purchased the quad in say...Denver, it's a great possibility...

Please find me where in my statements on this forums I've ever said that. Can't. Didn't think so... 250R was the best track and trail quad of all time before the 450s came out. 450R suspension geometry is based on it. You are biting off WAY more than you can chew... You and MJ are just clowns who blow each other. Neither of you have a clue...and you little kids need to go back to watching sesame street. Jacko...you wrote up this long PM...after running your mouth to me in this thread. Don't suck my dick in a PM and then come here like a tough guy. What I said to you is I've got nothing to say in a PM. You want to run your mouth, do it in public...that's where you started it, that's where I'll end it. You post things you know about? Well...in that case, if it were true, your post count would've stopped at one. It would've been titled I now own a banshee...and...I molest kids on the side. Bell...you're giving up 100 lbs (between bike and rider), torque and horsepower. I don't know if you're leaving details of either bike out, setup, gearing, tires, etc. but that doesn't work out right, period.... I've ridden a single pipe, stock carb, milled head banshee by someone who knows a helluva lot more than me about these things, no way in hell it'd beat, make that easily beat a 450. You said not everyone is a drag racer, yet you're talking about drag race results and easily beating him?

Easily? I would like to see that with stock carbs and a dynoport pipe. Not saying it can't be done...nothing is for sure, but I'd really have to see that, who's riding each bike, rider weight, and skill. I don't know how a high 30 HP bike is easily beating a low 40 HP bike (yes, bone stock) that's 40 to 50 lbs lighter and hooks up better/easier.

Why can't you just do what you say you're going to? Drama Queen. This is Classic.... "the only things i post about are things that i have experience with and know to be facts for the msot part"

I didn't even read half that chicken scratch. If you're truly insulted by me telling to you a 4 stroke is a better trail machine than a banshee without suspension and motor mods, than you're a bigger child than those you molest. Grow up dude... you're all about the drama. Put some facts and experience behind any of your statements....if you could, you can't.

125's traditionally didn't have low end...they were top end screamers. Pro bikes were even worse. Normal Joes couldn't ride those bikes...they were weapons in the hands of the best (RC, Bubba, Etc.) That's why you don't see any in the lites class anymore. It's not because of the cc...it's because of usable power. When you have about 20 feet to accelerate and clear a 50 foot jump, power on demand and power to the ground are critical. You can still race a 125 in the lites class...but no one does for a reason (just like the supercross class) because you'd be at a disadvantage...big time.

That's a great price for a clear title bike. Try Craigslist if you haven't already...that bike should move quick.

Now MJ and Zach, before either of you two ass clowns say another word...please answer his question with all of your profound knowledge. I've stated my case, and given suggestions. You two cheerleaders going to sit on the sidelines and run your traps or are you going to enlighten us? That's what I thought. Keyboard jockeys and drama queens at their finest.

So I can't tell them to buy a 4 stroke but you can tell me to get a 4 stroke for drag racing? As usual...pedophile, your point is...well, pointless. Purpose built bike. Look it up. You can spend money on pipes, timing, compression, carbs (1 into two setup or a pair of small 28s) and you'd have a decent trail motor. Not as good as a 4 poke, but still a trail motor. Then you can go spend a few Gs on shocks, front arms, etc. By that time, you just spent WAY more than you could've on a stock 450 with maybe a pipe and air filter. Like I've said before, I could take a top fuel dragster to the grocery store, but there are better ways and means. You can make a shee a trail bike, but aside from spending a ton of cash...there's a better way. Are you so short sighted to think I never rode a banshee in trails? tight trails, open trails, flat trails, whooped out trails? C'mon...get a clue. That's all I used to ride.... I didn't just hop onto a drag bike one day and go in a straight line. If he wants a torquey trail bike with a great motor...but shit for suspension, what is the point. JUST LIKE IN DRAG RACING...all the power in the world doesn't do you any good if you don't get it to the ground and/or you can't handle it. If you want a trail motor (the shitty suspension has already been mentioned) get a trail port from a respected builder. Get a pair of 28PWK carbs, you won't need any bigger. Get Pro Circuit or FMF Gnarly or Fatty pipes, lower the front gear one tooth, shave .020 off the stock head or get an aftermarket head with 20cc domes, advance the timing to +4 and run race fuel. If you don't want to run race fuel, leave the head stock and advance the timing 4 degrees. That will be a noticeable difference. Meanwhile, someone on a stock 450 will go ripping by....

Impossible. Glad you got the coil figured out. I've ridden modded bikes with shift mods, stars, Blaster rollers, Yakkey Shift drums, etc. Yes, they shift better than stock. Hell, anything does that's why they make so many things to help them shift better. You've either never ridden a bike on an override...or don't have the power needed for one. Anything shifts better than stock. NOTHING shifts like an override. It's physically impossible. If you're happy how it runs and shifts, that's the most important part. But saying it shifts like it has an override is false...there is nothing "like" an override, you can either bang shifts all day under full throttle or you can't. If you're telling me you can do EXACTLY that on your bike now, it'll break soon...promise.

Ok...so sell some of the dirt bikes in your shed and buy a 4 stroke. I don't get your point.... He asked for a torquey trail monster. And hell...it's even the title. Simple answer, buy a four stroke.

You have two options. Put the fill fitting AND the pressure gauge fitting on the same intake plug, or...substitute one of the exhaust plugs for a pressure plug or the fill plug. Seems to me a single cylinder leak down would have the fill/pressure on a single intake plug.

You guys are a bunch of Nutswingers.... LOL :biggrin:

The benefits of a cool head, any brand, is the ability to change domes if needed and using Orings to seal instead of a flat gasket. I'd like to see proof of a bike running cooler with any cool head. Actual proof not theoretical proof. Raising the compression will in fact give you a boost in low end and mid range...it will also make your bike run warmer. So...at that moot point...it's a performance mod, and they look very nice as well. I've run NOSS head in the past, Dave Noss is a great guy, builds nice products and will bend over backwards to help you. I run a Chariot head now (also a site sponsor) for two main reasons. Less Orings than a conventional aftermarket head, and looks (both the raised center look and very nice Chrome plating on it) Chariot are also made in Michigan, so helping a fellow guy from my state is nice as well. If the guy you were talking to said going from a stock head to the same cc (volume) dome in a cool had gave him more Horsepower, there's a boost bottle in his future.

You'll be a helluva lot poorer "making" a banshee a good trail bike as you would a used box stock 450....

He runs a cylinder that is designed for a 10 mil stroke, like I do. That's how we bought our castings. Some guys like to run a bigger casting on a shorter stroke and mill some off the top...but it's always easier to get the casting for your intended crank you're gonna use. That's the beauty of an aftermarket cylinder....

It shouldn't need that much timing to cause it to not cut out. I ran my 4 mil cub on race gas with a TON of initial timing, like 4 or 5 on the plate PLUS the advance in the Dyna. I'd start checking electrical as well...on gas, if you have to gap it down to .020 to .022...you have weak spark. Could be a few things. Too large pickup gap to flywheel, bad stator, coil caps, etc. It could also be too rich, but running that much timing causes more heat and it's burning more of the mixture with that much advance...

While this might be the case in the last few years due to the 4 stroke craze, i can tell you before that they were getting new details every year, both engine, ignition, carb, chassis...every year something is different. You can port anything, that doesn't mean the original design has changed, it hasn't. The fact is the OEM banshee cylinder has been the EXACT same since the day it was made, over 20 years ago.

Go to planetsand.com, pay your membership fee, become a member. A link will do you no good, it's a pay only site.

Ha ha ha ha "The results have indicated horsepower increases over stock plugs of 2-3 Hp in a naturally aspirated engine and 27 Hp in a supercharged/turbocharged engine as seen in the January 2003 issue of 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords magazine" This is 2009....the best that company can do is come up with a test from 2003?? If they are so cutting edge and proven, you'd think someone just a little more recent would have tested the same. I think they only gain that kind of horsepower if they couple that with one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supercharge...sQ5fAccessories Exotic Igniton: PVL, MSD, Dynatek, Wilburn...to name a few. Other than stock..... Of course you're not going to get a guarantee online...in print...etc. Then again, uncle Jim Bob did use JB Weld to repair a cracked cylinder on his 1928 Ford Tractor, it says so on the JB Weld package, so it must be true, right??

I agree. Denso and NGK aren't spelled correctly, and one costs more than the other. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but take your bike to a reputable and known dyno shop. Get it tuned on NGK plugs. Then tune it on those Denso plugs. If you tell me you get 5-7% difference, I will buy you a box of them. If not, you can buy me 10 boxes of B9ES plugs for my bike...

I'm not sure about an 80cc bike, but a 125 has a power valve...throw that into the mix. It also gets all the newest technology year after year, instead of a 20 plus year old design.... Keep that in mind.

Total, 100% BS. Period. In my world guys claw for every little bit of power, run exotic ignition, etc. If there was a spark plug out there that could back up that claim, EVERYONE would use it. I've tried everything from BRXES series (X being the heat range, gas or methanol) to NGK's EIX series (their irridium plugs) and the only thing that got faster was my wallet for being lighter than it already was. Crap, pure crap. Just to be clear.... the heat index number of a plug has nothing to do with how "hot" the spark is, it only means how much heat it holds in the engine.

Buy a four stroke...

No such cylinder. They make RZ350 cylinder (Factory OEM with electrical controlled power valves) OR they make a Cheetah (Cheetah cylinders use a spring pressure controlled power valve) Cheetahs are made by an aftermarket company called CP Industries.