RBD

There are not much differences between the Y-1 and the Y-2 heads. The Y-1 heads are off the earlier Banshees and the Y-2 heads are the newer ones. I can not remember the change. I do like the Y-2 heads better because I think they are a better casting and the combustion chambers seem to be more centered to the cylinder. I also like the water jacket a little better in the Y-2 heads. Both the Y-1 and Y-2 have the same volume domes. For those that don't know, the Y-1 and Y-2 markings are cast in the top of the heads just under where it says 2GU which is where the small hose is that comes out the top of the head.

10-4 on the top end rebuild...... Freshen up the bottom too :baseball_mitt:

Are you using a "GOOD known compression gauge, or is this something that as been kicking around in a drawer some where? Even good compression gauges can miss read if the check valve is dirty or no good (I am talking about the check valve in the thread adaptor of the gauge it self) Also are you holding the throttle wide open when performing the tests????

Simple and cheep low end power is a head mod (under $100.00 mill and squish mod) or a "Cool Head" from Noss.

I like the Motion Pro hex design much better than an open-ended idea. In either case using the adaptor at 90* with your torque wrench, makes for a direct reading.

GEEZR, Motion Pro has a torque wrench adaptor #00134 (use with your 3/8 drive torque wrench). It fits both 12 mm and 14 mm and retails for about $16.70

E-S-B-F-G-G-C

Yea, but I did understand the question and did not make the assumption that he was running the same carbs as you were, especially with the jetting suggested :baseball_mitt: I did, read the 28 mm part :baseball_sleep:

:baseball_bat: Just call me the big JACKHOLE Jetting is very significant to the type and size of the carb!!!!!! Ron

I really have to laugh at this post subject..... (incomplete information) SO..., you are using 28 mm keihin carbs (nice to know this information now); The CEL needles that "Polish" recommends will not work in the 28 mm carbs! As far as your 28 mm Keihin carbs are concerned, they are tapered to 29mm STOCK from Keihin (part of the casting process) So now that we know you have stock Keihin PWK 28 mm carbs, your set up with 52 pilots and 160 mains sound very close for you. A good base line for the PWK 28 at sea level would be the stock JJH needle with a 155 main and 55 pilot jets. Jetting is very subjective and you should always adjust for your particular riding styles, temps, and conditions. If the 52 / 160 is working for you now and the bike is not complaining and running clean, use it. Ron

I can only assume that you are using Keihin carbs....??????? If, so what type and size?

The LA Sleeve 409 mono block is "JUNK" don't buy one. If you do, you will be sorry.

BigRed350x, You obviously do not have a very broad range of engine building...., you should just stick to your own limited Banshee hacking. Believe it or not there are a lot of other piston options that can be used it the Yamaha 350 twins along with other engines in general. Trying to tell others not to pay any attention to things like this is just plan stupid! Ron

As BigRed350x said, for this particular piston and manufacturer, it really won't matter...., BUT it is always a good idea to look at rings and put the lettering or numbering facing up! WHY? :baseball_bat: , because different piston manufacturers and different pistons will use a different ring for the top and bottom ring. EXAMLPES; Some rings are a keystone type rings and if installed upside down will stick in the ring groove and will cause engine damage. Sometimes there are two different thickness of rings and the rings will not fit properly. Also sometimes there will be different materials used in the rings... So, a good idea (and any good engine builder will) is look for the numbers or lettering and face them up. Also if one ring has a number or lettering and the other does not, the one with the markings will be the top ring. ALWAYS follow the ring installations that come with most all ring sets...., NEVER assume that it does not matter and you will save your self a ton of headaches. Thank you, Ron

hotrodbanshee, Just another note, the tapping on the shaft idea has only worked one out of three times for me. The other two times, the cases had to be split and the second gear wheel had to be removed from the output shaft. Then it was an easy fix by pressing the bushing back in flush with the face of the gear. Ron

hotrodbanshee, I have seen this problem a few times when doing bottom end work. What some times happens is the 2nd gear wheel (on the output shaft) bushing will work itself out of the gear and drag on the retainer snap ring that holds the gear in position. This will cause a constant drag on the shaft and create a similar situation to what you are experiencing. Sometimes you can give a sharp rap to the transmission shaft on the opposite side of the countershaft sprocket. This is the shaft that the kick start idler gear rides on behind the clutch basket. To do this, you need to remove the clutch cover and clutch basket. Hope this information helps. Ron

1/8" = about 3 DEGREES 1/4" = about 6 DEGREES

NOTHING !!!

I am a little confused about stroker cranks and have a question; I have been building good strong Banshee motors for my customers for many years now, carb work, head work, ignitions and porting. Now I have a customer that I have built the engine, ported (28 mm exhaust and big intakes), cool head, welded crank and carbs. He now wants a 4 mil stroker (115 mm rods) and my question is; Do I use a spacer plate and 795 pistons or do I go with the stroker domes for the cool head and 795 pistons? I have heard of people doing it both ways. Do I need to do any re-porting? I am a little confused on this issue, if I keep with the 28 mm exhaust timing (using the spacer plate) what gains will the motor see? In my way of thinking is, it would be a wash as the effective power stroke would be the same as a non stroker (with ported 28 mm exh) and the piston still has to travel an additional 4 mm. If I use the stroker domes, that will in effect put the exhaust timing back to a stock stroke timing of about 30 mm..... So I guess I am confused, where are the power benefits in a stroker crank? Thank you, Ron

Choke cross over tube......?????? Is it connected to both carbs?

I don't understand the question and answers..... QUESTION was leaded fuel in two stroke engines! TWO stroke engines LOVE leaded fuel "Period"

Wack off .060" and re-cut the squish band to .040" clearance between the head and piston!

That is almost true but the real measurement of the carb size is measured at the bore area next to the slide (it is the machined area). Most carbs will taper a little bigger at the engine side of the carb by about 1 to 1.5 mm bigger than the actual carb size. Exceptions would be smooth bore carbs and Chinese knock off's Ron

I would have to agree with rocketboy on that one Ron

You need to know how to us a compression measurement and be using a VERY good gauge that will repeat year after year. Know what the reading are when it's running good and what the readings are when it runs poor. A compression gauge is only as good as it is, and what you have experience with these readings. Ron