RBD

eehsnab2 I will 10-4 that

Good for you iceman, And I'm sure they are all stock cylinder bikes with stock reed cages that use reed spacers on the cylinder side......., I am just so dumb Just no putting something past all of you Pro's

It was just a picture of a KDX 200 on the dyno..... And YOU are wrong it's a 1996 KDX 200 As all of you closed minded people that won't look at anything that has not been approved from the Planet Sand Guru's......, I'm so glad that you all have the after market cylinders, billet lower ends and stroker crankshafts......, you all should be so proud of your 10K + engines. So you really don't need reed spacers now do you? I was simply wanting to give an option of what I have found on the 350 Yamaha twin in some what stock form and reed spacers......, take it or leave it. I do have a Dyno and have tested lots of things....., do you or do you just read about it? I'm done....., so I will not insult your bench racing and reading. You have already have your gospel opinions Ron

I have never heard or saw on the dyno, "more power down low" with the reed spacers on the cylinder side either. But have seen it give a little more power on the top end "on the dyno" with the spacers on the carb side. Here is a pic of my dyno;

That's your opinion "boy" but numbers don't lie on the dyno! Have a great day "rocket"

To anyone that may be interested, I have done quit a bit of dyno testing on reed spacers. The engine used was a Yamaha RD 350 production road racer which is a air cooled engine (which is basically the same engine used in the Banshee, case design and ports). When putting on the reed spacers on the cylinder side, the engine lost 1 HP on the top end (as apposed to not using the spacer). When the reed spacer was installed on the carb side, the engine put out 3 HP more on the top end (as apposed to not using the spacer). Thank you, Ron

There are some small gains of HP if you install them on the carb boot side of the reed.

The stock 26 mm Banshee carbs should not be bored to 28 MM as the slide it self is only 27.5 mm in diameter. If you had after market Mikuni 26 mm carbs they can be bored to 28 mm as the slide is 30 mm in diameter. You can oval bore the stock 26 mm carbs to 28 mm (this makes the bore 26 mm wide and 28 mm tall) I do this all of the time with great results. The carbs will flow with in 1 cfm of the Keihin 28 mm "D" slide carbs and will flow more than the Keihin's at 2/3 throttle opening. The stock (genuine) 28 mm Keihin carbs should not be bored any larger than 29 mm as the slide is only 30 mm wide. Yes there are a lot of people that will bore the stock carbs bigger than the slide, but they are only looking for and using the top end and don't care if it idles or runs well off the bottom. Thank you, Ron

Your school instructor should be able to guide you through it. It sounds like a good school project. Note there are a lot of different ways to do your head and learning is the fun part of any school project. Good luck and have fun. Ron

Yea, what PassionRE said.

.003"

Got me on that one...., I'm an engine builder and don't do much chaises work.

18 ~ 20 Ft/Lbs

I second that..... NO

Yea...., I don't think rocketboy understood the original question. There would be a lot involved with that much wider exhaust port.

I sure would like to see more on these drop in sleeves that will give you more port timing and a much wider exhaust port without extensive port blending! If the WIDER exhaust is squeezed into the same port casting size without porting, I do not see any benefit. How about putting up a link so we can all see it and learn. Ron

http://www.nwsleeve.com/ North West Sleeve

I don't like LA Sleeves..... bad fit, hard and soft spots, LOTS of port blending. Talk to Linda at NW Sleeve..., better material, better heat treat, better fit and less blending! Ron

Good to go.....

Maybe it is a leaking reed gasket or torn rubber carb boot...???

Is this at an idle...? or is it on the mid or top end...?

Re-ues them...

Plus it will rev quicker.....

Rare Scottish Tree Badger, Using a little math and plugging in some numbers, the crown (dome) of the piston would be 6.467 cc's. This is using a figure of the crown radius of 130 mm and a 64 mm bore dia. Ron

You really aren't going to find a big enough difference in actual dome displacement from one bore size to another...., and when you get up to + 1 mm the dome is stepped to maintain the same configuration. Save your carpet and don't worry about it.