RBD

Sounds like wiring, have you changed anything recently, check ground wires.

Skyy, Your head has not been cut, it is stock. Ron

It could also be a jetting issue....

Not that I am aware of, what parts are you looking for?

Only one carb has the brass tube, it is the left side carb. Make sure you put the proper float bowl on that carb. It is the one that has a small brass jet in the bottom of the hole that the tube fits in. Ron

10-4 Skyy

I would like to know if that will really work, let us know.

Skyy, If you can give me the dimensions of your head at the head bolt stud areas (from where the head nut surface is to the head gasket surface) in thoundths of and inch I could tell you if it has been milled. I would also need to know what the markings are on the top of the head. It will have a raised lettering 2GU and under that it will have either a Y-1 or a Y-2. Ron

PUSH THE THROTTLE, Use a product called Sil-Glyde, you can get this at most auto parts stores (NAPA # 765-1351). Just put a few small dabs of this grease between the two lips of the seals. On the ignition side, the writing on the outer rim of the seal faces out. On the primary side, the castle shaped side of the seal goes next the bearing. Ron

The reference (case timing mark) point is the where the upper case and lower case meet.

Sounds lkie you are putting a little to much pressure on the end of your wrench. Those little 6 mm screws don't take very much torque to be tight.

Water mixed with oil in a gear box will make a very disgusting whitish look stuff.

I'd go with the adjustable timing plate if I were you, and yes it will make a difference.

It kind of sounds like the clutch cover is messed up or the end if the shift shaft end in the clutch cover area is messed up. The shift shaft is kept in place by a part of the clutch cover that stops the end play of the end of the shift shaft in the clutch cover area. Hope you understand what I am trying to say. The problem is most likely the clutch cover or the shift shaft it self. Ron

Yes, it is always a good idea to hone your cylinders when installing rings. And 20 ft lbs on the head torque in fine. Do it stages, snug, 10 ft lbs, 15 ft lbs 20 ft lbs and then re-do the 20 ft lbs again. Follow the number pattern on the head.

I would definitely go with the Pro-X pistons, good quality and proven reliability.

... and a little blue thread locker is good to use also.

Yep! Seen it before and it's not good. Sorry to hear about you probem, as it is engine rebuild time.

kw04, Usually carb slide will only stick if they get dirty (sand it the worst). Any carb that uses a slide is vulnerable to sticking if dirt or sand gets in there.

noob41, You must use the metal 1/2 clip on the right bearing. The metal clip fit into the groove in the case on the clutch side of the motor. Ron

toolman, Do you have the web site address of Fast by Gast? Thank you, Ron

Sounds like your compression has been bump way up. Really high compression will cause the spark to be blown out. A good aftermarket or TZ ignition should help with this problem.

That looks like a ADA head...., too bad. You should have gotten a Noss head. The domes will need to be cut, even if you use it on a stock engine and crank. The ADA domes will only give you about .020" to .025" squish clearance. Your 20 cc domes are probably 20.7 cc, as I have found out they don't measure what there are advertised (not enough in my opinion). Also good luck trying to get any information from ADA. There customer service sucks!

Not on topic with your question but can you NOT use all caps when you post, please. Ron

Get a Noss, PERIOD!