RBD

There are not much differences between the Y-1 and the Y-2 heads. The Y-1 heads are off the earlier Banshees and the Y-2 heads are the newer ones. I can not remember the change. I do like the Y-2 heads better because I think they are a better casting and the combustion chambers seem to be more centered to the cylinder. I also like the water jacket a little better in the Y-2 heads. Both the Y-1 and Y-2 have the same volume domes. For those that don't know, the Y-1 and Y-2 markings are cast in the top of the heads just under where it says 2GU which is where the small hose is that comes out the top of the head.

10-4 on the top end rebuild...... Freshen up the bottom too :baseball_mitt:

Are you using a "GOOD known compression gauge, or is this something that as been kicking around in a drawer some where? Even good compression gauges can miss read if the check valve is dirty or no good (I am talking about the check valve in the thread adaptor of the gauge it self) Also are you holding the throttle wide open when performing the tests????

Simple and cheep low end power is a head mod (under $100.00 mill and squish mod) or a "Cool Head" from Noss.

I like the Motion Pro hex design much better than an open-ended idea. In either case using the adaptor at 90* with your torque wrench, makes for a direct reading.

GEEZR, Motion Pro has a torque wrench adaptor #00134 (use with your 3/8 drive torque wrench). It fits both 12 mm and 14 mm and retails for about $16.70

E-S-B-F-G-G-C

Yea, but I did understand the question and did not make the assumption that he was running the same carbs as you were, especially with the jetting suggested :baseball_mitt: I did, read the 28 mm part :baseball_sleep:

:baseball_bat: Just call me the big JACKHOLE Jetting is very significant to the type and size of the carb!!!!!! Ron

I really have to laugh at this post subject..... (incomplete information) SO..., you are using 28 mm keihin carbs (nice to know this information now); The CEL needles that "Polish" recommends will not work in the 28 mm carbs! As far as your 28 mm Keihin carbs are concerned, they are tapered to 29mm STOCK from Keihin (part of the casting process) So now that we know you have stock Keihin PWK 28 mm carbs, your set up with 52 pilots and 160 mains sound very close for you. A good base line for the PWK 28 at sea level would be the stock JJH needle with a 155 main and 55 pilot jets. Jetting is very subjective and you should always adjust for your particular riding styles, temps, and conditions. If the 52 / 160 is working for you now and the bike is not complaining and running clean, use it. Ron

I can only assume that you are using Keihin carbs....??????? If, so what type and size?

The LA Sleeve 409 mono block is "JUNK" don't buy one. If you do, you will be sorry.

BigRed350x, You obviously do not have a very broad range of engine building...., you should just stick to your own limited Banshee hacking. Believe it or not there are a lot of other piston options that can be used it the Yamaha 350 twins along with other engines in general. Trying to tell others not to pay any attention to things like this is just plan stupid! Ron

As BigRed350x said, for this particular piston and manufacturer, it really won't matter...., BUT it is always a good idea to look at rings and put the lettering or numbering facing up! WHY? :baseball_bat: , because different piston manufacturers and different pistons will use a different ring for the top and bottom ring. EXAMLPES; Some rings are a keystone type rings and if installed upside down will stick in the ring groove and will cause engine damage. Sometimes there are two different thickness of rings and the rings will not fit properly. Also sometimes there will be different materials used in the rings... So, a good idea (and any good engine builder will) is look for the numbers or lettering and face them up. Also if one ring has a number or lettering and the other does not, the one with the markings will be the top ring. ALWAYS follow the ring installations that come with most all ring sets...., NEVER assume that it does not matter and you will save your self a ton of headaches. Thank you, Ron

hotrodbanshee, Just another note, the tapping on the shaft idea has only worked one out of three times for me. The other two times, the cases had to be split and the second gear wheel had to be removed from the output shaft. Then it was an easy fix by pressing the bushing back in flush with the face of the gear. Ron