switchblade

I believe that is sandfest and I'm sure I will be there.

I have heard of people useing a r6 street bike shock before, but I have never seen it.

carberator parts warehouse has a 30 mm made from the same body that kiehin uses. That is what I would uses. The pwk's jump from 28 to a 33 and 30's they have are a great size for the banshee. They are always on ebay for around 200-250. If you can't find them give me a shout I can get them for you.

If you pulled your motor out for the topend. I would check and make sure all the wires form the stator are tight and all the ground wires are clean and tight agenst metal.

You need to pull your boots off your coils and clean them them crimp them down a little. when coils fail they quit all together. I bet you just need a better conection to your plugs.

I love mine. It is a direct drive, and I have it on my dunner. I had always heard that it would be hard to pull with the lock up, but I really couldn't tell that much dif on the pull. Just lots more power from the clutchs not slipping.

You will spend 200 for a decent chrome job. I would buy the set that is all ready chormed that way you have extras if you need them. I have had about 6 sets plated and it is not cheap.

I have a set of durablue rear hubs that are in average shape they are used. 40 bucks

I know a rz is a direct swap but the gear ratios are a little taller.

you can mod your stock reed cages. which just cost you a little time and a few gaskets. Go in with a dremil and smooth out all the casting marks and cut the u shape ends where the reed lye out to squares shapes so they have more space to breath. It should give you a few horse. You can find milled heads on ebay everyonce in a while the go pretty cheap, and you should be able to get your fly wheel lightened for any where form 50 to 100 bucks. I would ditch the foam filter too. I have seen dyno sheets the prove a k&n in the stock box with out a lid makes more hosrepower the k&n pods. I'm sure some people will argue with that. I'm just giveing my 2 cents.

I run them and never had a problem.

22 lb's

trinity and t5's are all most the same pipe I don't know that you could tell a diferance.

make sure the wires in the plastic connector haven't been pushed out the back of the connector. I've had several do that. It looks like they are connected but they are not.

I no that the shearer sb and bb pipes are to totally differant pipes, but Im' not sure about the other companys. On a motor that size I'm sure you could get away with either a small or large bore pipe.

They all sound low to me. I would try to barrow another compression tester from a friend and see what is says. It is hard to believe that a 05 would have that many hours on it that is would need a top end. If a defferent tester reads the same or close I would aopt for a new top end.

I all most sound like an air leak.

Hey if you have it all ready I would go a head and use it. I have sold a few of those and you will never get your money out of it. Everybody wants a deal even if its brand new. I sold my last 4mill for 250 and it only had a few hours on it.

I'm running a 485 cheetah and I only have a +2, and it is a blast to ride.

You need to find out who you are going to use for porting. These are all ?'s that you should ask them. There are a dozen differnt ways to set this up. I would take your builders advice.

The pin in the shift drum cover is for the rz's. They have a nutrel light in the instument cluster.

485 cheetah on gas, shearer inframes, 38 pwk's 100 hp/62 lb's torque.

I need a banshee A-Arm frame in KS or some what close to KS.

wiseco and you won't have to change you dome at all. If they are damaged just buy the same size ones.

rocky mountian atv