MonkeyBoy

My Banshee always seems to run me over when I crash. I don't want that hitting me in the back. Also, most tracks will not let you in with a bumper like that.

Iv'e been pinned in 6th on 20's with 15/41 and I wish I had street tires. It was during a GP race, so I had my knobbies on. They vibrated enough to scare me, but the straight was only about two blocks, so I just held on.

None. Thumb throttle cables and Twist throttle cables are different. The length and end pieces are different.

Because you are not there. You have to follow the regulations of the state you are driving in. Cali doesn't allow trip[les. I have seen many in other states, but not here. If you pull across the border, you are illegal.

15/41 if you want to make it ugly.

Completely wrong. If you pull into Cali, you better be preparied to follow our laws. Cali requires a class A for anything over the 26,000 limit. You can get a noncommercial class A. You would only get cought if you got pulled over, and the cop checked. Not very likely. Like I said, you wouldn't be legal here, but the chance of getting caught is slim.

Actual shavings are bad. If the oil is simply metallic in color, it could just be clutch fibers in there. Remember that oil lubes your clutch too. That will wear clutch into the trans oil.

Tolerances change. Things move. It's really hard to say without seeing the bike. EDiagnosis is gonna be a guess on this one. How old is the motor? It may be time to go through the bottom end and trans.

If you ran out of gas while on on, the petcock intake tube is not there anymore. On the petcock there are two tubes, a short one for reserve, and a longer one for On. This allows you a small amount of fuel for reserve to get you home. Mine has the tubes removed too, so if I am On, the fuel will flow till the tank is dry. Just don't run it dry. I wouldn't bother with it unless it's run down to reserve all the time. I was going to leave mine as is until the petcock started leaking.

Couple of things I see. Run the oil in the manufacturers specified ratio. Whatever the oil recomends, go with it. I am not convinced you overheated. My Banshee has always spit all the coolant out of the overflow. Make sure that the radiator is full. If the radiator is low, then add coolant. I never check the overflow anymore. It's just an expansion bottle on most Banshees. Next, move that lin away from the pipes. I moved mine down the swingarm to dump on the skid plate. I don't want that crap on my pipes. If you get paranoid, run it up to the bars, so it spits warm coolant on your glove, so you know it's overheating. Otherwise, check the radiator and keep riding.

Doesn't sound like it. Sounds like a tranny problem. Could be the clutch, but it doesn't sound like it.

I kill shift shafts about 2 per year. It usually sticks me in third gear, making for a fun ride back to camp. I now carry a spare, and can swap one in .5 hour, without draining the trans.

As a former supervisor for a major food distributor in Ca I can tell you this. Over 26001 lbs, you need a class A. You can get a noncommercial class A, but you need that regardless. You may get away with it, but if you get in an accident, you are running unlicensed. No license means no insurance, all the policies have a clause to opt them out for instances like this. Also, if the trucks GVWR is exceeded, your insurance will not cover you either, so depending on the layout, you better have at least a one ton.

That is part of steering leverage. Your bars, steering stem, spindles, hubs, and wherl offset all play a role in steering leverage, ratio, and effort.

Ok, I'm drunk, and not sure who you are agreeing with, so I will pass on this one. But thanks for the definition of bump steet. From where was this posted?

OK, let's start at the beginning. I do race. I won't bust out my resume here, but I'm not pro class. I understand what you are saying, and I am completely agreeing with the need for a stabilizer. I have one on my Kawi, but not the Banshee as it isn't always needed in the dunes. I don't see where it was taken I disputed the stabilizer need. Every quad ridden faster than 5 mph should have one. What I disputed was the idea that bump steer includes trail ruts. I understand that they cause unwanted steering input, and arm pump, I just don't agree that it falls under my definition of bump steer. It's trail obsticals to me.

You don't need to worry about the ignition. If you look at the stator you will see that there are two different sets of windings. One runs the Ignition, and the other runs the lights and everything else. You stock stator is only good for a couple of 35W lights, like already mentioned.

Beyond the red labels are the yellow labels. Billet centers, rolled beads, and thicker than the reds. They are overkill, but I got em. Yes, I have bent red label fronts. It usually involves a wreck, but it can be done.

Does it do windows? I have never tried that, but I do know a couple of people who have them, and they swear by them.

Exactly. The overcomplication wouldn't bug me so much if the Pred didn't weigh more than the Banshee.

Meow.

If you look at the way the Pred gets it steering done, you can see that there are better ways to accomplish the same thing.

Nope no pissing match necessary. Neither one of us filled in our definitions with abuse. I just knew someone would blow up what I didn't say. Discussion ended.

I don't think Roll ever made +1, so a +2 should be correct. If still in doubt, call Roll.

I disagree with the part where you say that bumpsteer is in any way related to ground conditions. It's purely a frame geometry issue. I know wheel spacers will amplify an already bad design, but they do not cause bump steer. In this regard, you are confusing steering leverage and bump steer. I don't recommend wheel spacers, or wide offset wheel to anyone who want to run their quad past second gear. It's just a band aid for the wider suspension you want. Here's Steeda's definition of bumpsteer... Steeda Bumpsteer definition