MonkeyBoy

Like I said, Im not busting anyone's chops, just explaining it correctly.

I'm offended. I love the Elsinore kit. Almost makes me want the Honda. But I am an asshole.

They have it basically. The steering stabalizer helps, all the other mechanical things only a little. Make sure you are not reaching to get to any controls. Ride as much as possible. Then ride some more. I do wrist curls at the gym to work my forearms. I want to look like Popeye. Best of all. Relax. Breathe. Unless you got the rent riding on the rac, just let it come to you. I used to get pumped on he first lap, I'd get butterflies, and my arms would pump right up. Loosen your grip on the bars some. You don't need to pull the grips off. That's what worked for me.

Dude, you totally have bumpsteer wrong. Bumpsteer is the change in steering as the wheel runs through it's range of travel. From fully compressed, to fully extended. If you have a ATV stand, put your banshee in it. Take off one front shock. Center the bars, and move the free wheel up and down. That change in steering is bump steer. No steering stabilizer will cure faulty suspension geometry. Wheel spacers only move the wheel, not change the suspension action, thus no bumpsteer change. You change bumpsteer by adjusting the relative mounting points of the upper and lower a arms to the frame, as well as the tie rod to steering stem mounts. Don't mean to bust your chops, but you got it all wrong.

The only place that they are safe is on the top arm. The load isn't as much on the top arm (why Yam could get away with alum upper arms on the YFZ). Also the load on the upper a arm is on a horizontal plane, rotating on the lower a arm connection with the spindle. Different loads entirely. I haven't studied everyone, but Roll will not use a heim on the bottom. Ball joint or uniball.

In the direction that they are supposed to operate. They were never designed to be on vertical and horizontal shear point. They stress where they enter the arm. Both back and forth, and up and down. Ball Joints were designed to be pulled all directions from the outset.

Bump steer, in a properly designed Banshee suspension, will not start being no9ticable until over 10 inches of wheel travel. It's not bad during the large percentage of riding.

Laeger ball joints are the best out there. Don't waste your time converting to hiems that are more maintenance and weaker. Usually when an a arm runs heims, they go to a much larger heim. If you replace yours, they probably will break.

Just remember, you can never spend too much on suspension. You do get to the point after about 1500 of diminishing returns, but no one complains that their suspension is too plush.

Electrical tape will slip as soon as it gets warm and the adhesive gets gummy and hot. Not at all what you want in a MX race.

Usually the chain will not break unless it is old and stretched, but I have seen it. Usually wipes out the case too.

As it is my 34 PJ's don;t clear the clutch arm unless I bend the bracket. And I have the Pyramid reed valves. Not as much as a dedicated reed spacer, but much thicker than stock.

Just sounds like you are overcomplicating the matter. One well tuned shock could do that. But keep it up, that's how we learn.

Same puller as an R.

And they will not fit if you have large carbs last time I checked.

Just safety wire. I haven't used or needed anything else. If you have soft grips, some adhesives will break down the grips. Take an old set of soft grips and spray them with either. They dissolve.

Yup, you could just use the one shock. You don't wnat to compare a link to that no link, that's apples and oranges. What could two shocks do that one can't?

That's the way to do it. We ride to Pair A Dice for breakfast, and we refule befire we head back. You use more than you think being pinned for so long. There are quite a few stretches where you can open it up.

I guess I'll be the one to ask... Why? There's really no need, and it would just add weight.

If you only dune in Glamis, you should be great with the +4. If you plan on going to Oregon, and shooting the tree trails, than the +4 will be a little long on the tighter trails. Plan on having to get off and turn your quad around. Would probably only be a problem there.

How do they weld the square tubing from the R to the round Yamaha frame? Do you have any close ups? Sounds sketchy to me.

Sounds like Eichner's old Laeger chassis Banshee. He used to run the open class with it. I saw one at Dunefest last week. Killer looking, but Laeger will not make it or parts for it anymore. People that have the roughly 50 made are hording all the parts that go up on EBay. Sweet machine though.

Desert Racing? Not with those a arms on it. Would bust those puny heim joints in a few miles.

Not for drag? Then what is it for? I sure as hell wouldn't MX it. Looks like a Glamis drag frame. Made to get you through the whoops.

Yup. I think I bought them in 2000. Still have the billet spacers in the top arms, just have ball joints. I have heard through the grapevine they aren't too proud of them. I also have the first generation of TCS on them.