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MonkeyBoy

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  1. The banshee is a pain to haul around for two hours. But if you insist... +1 at the most, you need to fit between the trees. Find the best shocks you can afford, and buy nicer ones. The banshee needs all the suspension help it can get.
  2. The 450 shocks were never designed to be on a banshee, and certainly never designed to be on a banshee with aftermerket a arms. You may never get these right, but you need to increase your compression at least. Flat ground landings like that are the worst. You will bottom those out first. Grab another gear and downside it. PS if I read that pic correctly, and those are work boots, you are in for a broken ankle too.
  3. Last I heard, there were 5 deaths this weekend.
  4. Most any professional motor builder is gonna tell you to 50 - 100 hour rebuild depending on what port work is done. Usually a compression test will tell you when she is getting close. When you start checking off the boxes Race Gas Larger Carbs High Rev High Compression You know your service hours are dropping like a rock. Some things get rebuilt after every race.
  5. I do. I only use the finest in butter knives, and plastic spoons to literally carve performance into your cylinders. They won't let me have sharp objects. Not after that incident with the blow up doll.
  6. Stock press in bearings usually just slide something into them and hammer them out. Helps to cuss a lot when you do too.
  7. Kings are BEEEEEEEEEutiful on a rail or a truck, but everyone that I have heard of trying them on a quad say they suck.
  8. Handling will be more stable, because of the wider setup, but the longer swinger will make it turn worse. If you are only duning it a couple times a year, leave it stock length or shorten it. That will make it turn better.
  9. Me likey... Whose are those and how much?
  10. There's a few things that will cause that, causing those bushings to primarily wear. 1. wheel bearings. Remove and replace. 2. ball joints/heim joints on a arms. Replacement depends on your a arms 3. a arm bushings themselves. replace from a arm manufacturer or Yamaha 4. wheel balance. Mine shakes on the left side. Only pinned in 6th. Looked at it, and the wheel bearing is loose. Never been replaced, so I guess it's time.
  11. If you don't wanna keep it, don't ride it. You'll get hooked.
  12. They use regular off the shelf Warrior balljoints for the Banshee arms. Get them from Yamaha. And the pivot bearings they use are actually caged bearings, not the brass spacers, or plastic spacers some others use. Too spendy for most on this board, but there is a reason.
  13. Kinda seems wrong to do just the fronts.
  14. Will they be available in normal longtravel lengths? Are they making a rear? I rode the FOX floats on a friends Z, and I liked them. Plush.
  15. The T-Pin design was used to correct a geometry flaw in the fourtrax design. Came from having the front framerails raked back too much for the balljoints in a longtravel application. Since this is not part of the Banshee, it isn't necessary. Just renders the Laeger T-Pin a very expensive waste. Plus the T-pin rebuild kits are much more expensive than it costs to rebuild the Roll Design Lobo kit. I've also heard the fittment on the Outlaw chassis is horrible. I still want to ride it. The ultimate would be the Laeger Banshee/250R chassis. But you better be lucky on Ebay to get all the pieces.
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