RNBRAD

That's the whole point of this forum, is to inform others of what works and what doesn't. If a person wants to spend countless hours and dollars on a turbo project for a banshee, that is fine and totally applaud his efforts, but it also raises a question as to what a person is trying to achieve. Also does he know what he's stepping in to? I'm not condemning him nor did I attack him but rather informing him that if his goal is 160hp there is another path of less resistance. If his point is to do something totally different that no one else has achieved, then I can understand that. You never know what people are thinking or their mechanical experience and if they even know what others have been through trying to achieve the same thing.

This is not a leading and following issue. If you disagree with something I said in my post, then back up your argument instead of trying to attack me personally with no merrit. :thumbsup:

So were they originally stock stroke cubs? To check see what number is lifted in the casting on the upper lip of the intake.

One thing I want to know is how in the world are you gonna push all that exhaust through that small stinger? That is if you plan on developing any kind of serious HP.

I believe this is a direct response from Amsoil. "In order to obtain the highest level of protection, the AMSOIL Dominator Racing oil contains what is referred to as ash-type chemistry. Though this type of chemistry provides the additional safety margin required in racing it also tends to allow for additional deposit formation within the combustion chamber. The rate of formation is slow but over the course of many seasons of operation, it could present a problem in certain PWC applications. In competition, engines are inspected or rebuilt frequently. That being the case, ash-type chemistry and hence deposit formation is never really a concern. In an application in which the equipment may run for years without inspection or cleaning, the possibility of a concern does exist. Hence, the reason for our warning statement you noted. If you have performed some serious engine modifications, the AMSOIL Dominator would be the preferred product. You would just have to remember to inspect it for combustion chamber deposits every few years. I hope this helps."

All of the pipes mentioned will fit your performance needs pretty well. If your a stickler for quality as well as performance, then I would look toward the trinity. They have a great fit and finish second to none. Quality comes at a price though.

Good trail motors.

Anyone play Resistance or FEAR? if so post your screen name.

My guess is you could just chamfer the edge a little and be ok.

Good choice!

I know I couldn't log on through AOL and had to use IE to view the site for whatever reason in the past month. I never could use the "shout out" feature. Everything is fixed now!!!

That's like saying my paint is too shiny or my banshee handles too good.

That's one of the hardest pieces on the banshee along with the calipers and front hubs. Once you start it there's no going back. Well there is but it won't be pretty. Good luck and do some searching on here for more polishing info if needed.

Awesome, I'll keep that in mind.

My preference is a moly based grease for any and everything.

Might tell them to also bring some ear plugs or offer up some breathe right nasal strips if they want to get any sleep. lol j/k

You guys must be checking in the wrong places for your VF2 parts. Maybe some builders aren't carrying them but you can always get them from Moto Tassinari for probably the next 10 years or more. Just too many sets of them were sold.

Vinyl, marine grade.

Beer cans are made out of circular tubes, of course he should know. lol

Yea it's old school. Years ago 2 strokes had problems with sticking the bottom ring, I assume mianly due to the lack of refinement in premix's where they would leave more residue when burned, causing this problem. With the quality oils we have today, probably no advantages at this point.

Just click on the link in David's sig and be done with it. He wanted to say that anyway. lol

Bottom ring expander which helps prevent ring sticking. Don't really need it.

Me either, and the kind of boost it would take to get those numbers. What kind of pressure can a crank seal handle before your blow it?

That a Rax unit?

The only disadvantage of Nikasil that I can think of is the initial cost. A proper Nikasil plating will last longer, cool better, and create less friction. I'm not sure how many rebores a steel sleeve will go through before a Nikasil plated cylinder will need redone.