RNBRAD

I was goona say, I have one in my attic with the petcock off, could of measured real quick.

If your going through that kind of trouble, I would go the 4mil and get a bigger tank or get a 6 pack rack and take some gas with you.

Mayonnaise some mest up sentences.

Have you seen the ps3 on the latest 1080p lcd's? Pretty amazing, night and day from my 720p lcd and even my 1080p DLP. I just bought a Toshiba with the 120hz refresh rate (clear frame) for fast motion. Absolutely incredible!! All this with just a 720p game.

Like Bansh-man stated, most of these bottled oils out there are produced by just a few company's. The KEY to choosing a good oil is knowing which refining process these company's use and also what additive packages they use and which oil with which additive package best fits the characteristics of "my" engine.. These "additive packages" have patents on them and they are pretty much top secret until the patent expires. There are definite so called leaders in the additive packaging business and many other company's just use there old additive package technology once the patents expire. But these company's are generally several years behind on the latest r&d in lubrication. But most of the oils you guys swear by are honestly not your top tier oils. then again we are not lubricating a too sophisticated motor either. Many of you buy oil based on the name on the bottle vs what's really inside. But hey that's marketing genius, put "your name goes here" on a bottle of oil and people will swear by it. Just like Harley riders have to use Harley Davidson oil cause they feel somehow it is made just for the Harley bike. Hogwash, ha no pun intended, but know there is much better oils out there than buying a "John Deere", Harley Davidson, Honda, Yamaha, etc... These companys don't make oil, they are in business to sell it and they will tell you what you want to hear so you will buy it. They don't want you to know there is a superior oil on the shelf at wal-mart for your application for less money. They can't have that, the bottle says Honda it is made specifically for your machine, that is what they want you to believe. Also oil is like religion, it really boils down to which preacher or salesman they like and people will just use their recommendation instead of really finding out for themselves what is really the best. It takes time though. It really boils down to, do we need to split hairs finding an oil for our banshee. Is there "really" that much difference between oils that I will see significant improvement. No not really, but there are best better and good oils out there. I just don't think our little banshee tranny's are pushing the limits of the latest developments in lubrication and probably wouldn't if we poured in a bottle a of oil refined and bottled in 1960. Just know that changing it regularly will be for more important than what brand I put in.

Just an FYI for members that ride LS, the flags have to be orange and I believe no writing. I don't see a problem adding one of these units below a state approved design.

You need to try the billet Cascade gear slammer. You can also get a shorter length.

I would plate the brake pedal, since the aftermarket units are rediculously high and there is not any problems with the stock unit that I have ever heard of. Honestly though, I would chrome as much as I could cause polished alimunum isn't as easy to take care of as chrome.

Yea the Trinity's will give you more top end power over the T5's, mainly dpends on your porting if any. Trinity's work well with and are recommended for higher exhaust port heights where your other midsized expansion chambered pipes aren't. Meaning they designed a drag capable pipe without the size. Anyway, that's how they are marketed. I've never backed that up with my own dyno testing though.

And some platers "street chrome" is better than others "show chrome". Those footpegs in show chrome would cost about 40 bucks at my plater.

Chrome stock pipes, that has to be a BHQ first. What a waste of chrome.

You could just have them do the top case, really no point in doing the bottom. I just polished it and also polished the upper front and back lips of the bottom case. Really not bad at all, one of my easier projects.

Exactly the point I was trying to make.

Yea that wouldn't happen, was hard enough for me to put it on my flag. lol

I can understand a cub being more geared for drag since they don't include the pv's. I'm just saying the whole purpose of a pv is beyond the drag racing realm, but you can still block them off and modify these motors strictly for drag if you so choose. I just don't want someone to assume that the word "Cheetah" denotes a drag motor only, they are really so much more than just that. The 421 cub is an awesome dune motor (from personal experience) and countless others use it for that as well. You add PV's to a cub and it would even be better for the tighter stuff. I set out to build the ultimate duner and I also like to drag for fun. The only thing I think I would change is going to a 400 or 421 Cheetah just for the PV's. You can pop away if you like though, lol.

Dave if you check with the big names, like Ohton, RDZ, K&T, and even Jeff and Jim etc... I think Ohton has 3 levels of porting for the cubs and stage 3 is full drag race porting. I'm sure it is subjective as to what port specs necisitates "drag porting". These guys may just be out to make a buck or two but they are porting the piss out of all these engines on the drag motors they build. So when most of them have on their website "Full drag porting, or stage 3 etc.. So to most builders as I see it, they are porting them for drag, to me they are not a complete drag port. Some builders may feel that the stock specs are a complete drag port, but I don't know of any cause every builder that builds one for drag racing is porting them. They've been doing it since they 1st came out and most of them are charging around 400 for their drag porting. A good duner to me would be any stock stroke to 4mm cub, 400 or 421 cheetah. I have not rode a 421 but have rode a 400 with pv's. If I had it to do all over again I would have it or the 421 with pv's over the 421 cub. Different strokes for different folks, some people ride scooters some ride race bikes. An RD350 wouldn't be bad for the bottom end provided by the PV, but I would be missing the top end pretty quick. I've ridden just about every combo of stock jugg banshee to 4 mil different ports, yada yada on and on and by far the best motor's I've ridden for dunes is the 421cub and 400 cheetah. I'll putt around dunes all day on my cub and enjoy it way more than any combo I ever had with my stock motor.

Your just confusing the term drag with race. It is of a racing design which is exactly how it's marketed. It still needs work to have complete drag racing port specs. They are marketed as race because this covers a lot of different things the cylinders were intended for. If you don't believe me, just look around, don't let me be the only one to tell you a 421 Cheetah, cub or whatever is not just a drag only engine and also make killer dune motors among other things. Now if you take your Cheetah 421 PV, block off the PV's and put it on alky, full race porting, straight cuts, override, dual 39's, drag pipes, 12+ over swinger, guess what? you just made your quad for dragging only. Now if you take the same motor with Trinity pipes, dual 35's, +4 swinger, and timing advance. I don't think any amount of mods to stock cylinders could create a better dune motor.

Sheesh Travis, what color is that? Truck looks awesome!!

Exactly my point, a Cheetah is a race motor than can be used for several things and cannot be considered as a drag only motor. If that was the case then they would never put a PV on a drag only motor. People use them from hill climbs, to circle track ice and dirt, pikes peak hill climb, duneing, cross country, Baja etc... on and on where a PV is a definite benefit. So there is a lot of people to question as why they didn't do their research and why they are using a "drag" motor to do other things. Reason is, it's not just a drag motor, it does great in many other applications as well, period. To me that's almost the same as saying a drag pipe is only good for drag racing, not true as well.

Thanks Dave, I was being a little sarcastic though, but you proved my point. The PV's are there because they were not just intended as a "drag only" motor.

If Pv's are pointless on a drag motor, then why do they put them on there?

I think the 421 cheetah with the Pv's makes for a better dune motor than a 421 cub and the cub is the most popular aftermarket dune motor, probably due to price between the two. If I had my choice of any dune motor, that would be it. Yes it would have Trinity's on it. Couldn't pay me to run anything else for an all around dune motor. Drag only, different story.

You must of burned your retina looking at your polished cylinders. (You know, the ones I polished) lol

She may be dumb for asking that, but you never know there may be someone dumber that will pay it.