williamjernigan

How far does the idle screw actually stick in the carb for it to idle properly. Also I think that since I was backfiring so much today then I am going to go down to a 290 main and see how that works. One question about the synchrinization too. I can see the little markers in the windows but they are not exactly in the center of the window. They rise and fall together though. Does it need to be centered?

Yeah I just adjusted the carbs where they both are insynch atleast the best I can tell. I went up 4 main jet sizes, from a 260 to a 300 because I took my lid off and I was changing because of temperature dropping. But it just so happens that today it was warm like 64 degrees. So I think that I might wait for a cooler day and then do a wot test and check my plugs. Today they were just backfiring like nothing I had ever seen. I did adjust thottle cable where its all the way out but it still will not idle. I think I didn't shave enough off of the carbs.

I just got my tors removed and I just tried to get it started and it started fine. The only problem is that it want Idle. I screwed in the idle screws all the way and when you start it it will start fine but the gas lever is loose. I opened up the throttle cover and I screwed in the throttle cable all the way. When you look at the throttle lever, it has some play before it pulls the lever with the throttle cable. Where did I go wrong or what should I do. I just srewed the throttle cable out all the way and now it seems to be better but it still want idle. I think I may have not shaved off enough of the carbs. It is warmer today too so I dont think my jetting will be right. I went from 260 to 300 and have no lid and it is about 60 degrees now. If it doesnt idle but runs allright then can I ride it atleast to see how my jetting is. Will this mess up anything? One last question. It seems like it reve twice as fast now. Is this what I should expect from tors removal kit.

I think I am in the same boat your were in. Check my other post boonman

I just got my tors removed and I just tried to get it started and it started fine. The only problem is that it want Idle. I screwed in the idle screws all the way and when you start it it will start fine but the gas lever is loose. I opened up the throttle cover and I screwed in the throttle cable all the way. When you look at the throttle lever, it has some play before it pulls the lever with the throttle cable. Where did I go wrong or what should I do.

I have got my tors off and I think that I am ready to check jetting. Before I put gas in I made sure the carb were in synch and I havn't messed with the idle screw yet.

My friend needs a left carb and I was thinking that a blaster carb might work since it is the same size. Will this setup work or not. I know that he would have to sincranize the carbs by how it felt because their is no window.

When I was putting back my carbs tonight I noticed that the needle has play like you can wiggle it around a little. When I slid the slide into the carb the needle was not exactly lining up with the hole it is supposed to go in. Just curious if this is normal. Also when I am jetting, I should only change one thing at a time so that I will no what is right and wrong, wright.

I got it tapped without any problems. However I did bust throuh the wall and hit the other side with the drill. It just made a tiny dent

I am installing my tors kit right now and I have drilled through one of my carbs and now I have to tap it. But my drill is not a variable speed drill. I was kind of worried about that and that it might mess up the threads if I went to fast. Is their any other way I can do it.

I have sst's with k&n airfilter with no snorkel but with the lid on right now. It is now jetting at 260 mains and 30 pilots. I am about to rejet because the temperature is dropping and because I cut the back 2 inches off of my lid. I live right at sea level and the temperature is now 30deg at the coldest to about 55 as the high. It will probrably be like this till about end of Febuary. I'm thinking that I will start with 290 mains. I'm not sure where the needle position is right now but I'm thinking that it will need to move as well. Which way does it go for leaning or righing it out.

What should I clean with. Should I just disasimble and clean or spray some cleaner or just use a clean wet rag or what? Also what did you or should I use to grind the angle piece to make it flat. Should I use my bench grinder or just some sand paper and some elbow grease. Any other tips will be greatly appreciated. THANKS.

About how long should it take me to get rid of my tors and put the new tops and rejet it. I will have someone helping me. Just need a rough estimate

If I got a 440 kit then what size domes should I run. I live in sea level elevation and I ride aggressive trail riding.

My friend bought a 88 banshee today and its bored to 1.50 Which is the best set of pistons and top end rebuild kit for it. Also does anyone have anyother suggestions as to what he can do to get it running right. I'll post some pics of the pistons and head tommorrow.

For one thing I dont have the tool you are talking about. I have been using a phillips head screwdriver but I was just pushing it straight forward and backward not against sprocket hub. Yes their is room to move the carrier. I have it now close to the back but I was trying to get it to the front so that when I adjusted it I could have the right amount of links out. Ive only taken out one so far.

I have strained trying to turn my carrier on my roundhousing swingarm and cant get it it budge. Just installed two days ago but still need to adjust chain to right tension. Any suggestions.

send some pics of swingarm skid plate to my email. [email protected]

I even took the freakin bolts out and still could not get it to move. No I was going to lube it on the outer part of the carrier but I didn't. That might be my problem. Any suggestions

It just seems like the brake plate and the carrier are so tightly pressed to the swingarm that it want budge. That is all I can gather. The swinger is new as well as the carrier.

I need help adjusting my chain with my new roundhousing swingarm. I know I have to loosen the two bolts in the back and then I am supposed to put a tool or something in the holes of the left side of the bearing carrier and spin it right. But is it a special tool you need to fit in the holes and I tried using a screwdriver and turning it but it want budge. Does anything else need to be done or what can I do to be able to rotate the bearing carrier.

I got my -1 lonestar swinger installed and I didn't have any trouble at all really. Though only thing I want to make sure about is now that I have tightened all the bolts, the bolt that holds the bottom part of the spring through the wishbone now has some play in it. Before it was tight and now I can take the shock and wiggle it about 1/8 of an inch back and forth. I have put all the parts that go with it on it and tightened the bolt but it still wiggles. When I sit on the guad it only wiggles a little. Is this because it is -1 inch. Also I took one link out of my chain and it is still to long. Before I take to many out, how many should I have to take out if you have any ideas. Thanks

what color is the chest protector

I am trying to take my end nut off my axle where the cotter pin goes through but I have tried and already snaped off an extension in a socket. Ive taken them off before on other quads and I have never had this much trouble. Should I maybe put a little heat to that sucker. Also just curious as to what you guys use to take off the two axle locking nuts.

Thats a pretty good asumption about why its slow reading. But of course another one is that the banshee is so freakin fast the computer cant keep up with it.