BigRed350x

There is also a stop welded on the stock a-arms on some models that I have seen, yours might have been one of these models. I agree with the above, that is a commonly bent little part. Take a hammer and whack that little bugger back in place and weld him in there with a nice little gusset.

Buy a big can of carb cleaner. Tear aprt carb. empty can of carb cleaner into carb. assemble carb. tada! Actually if you just take them apart, remove all the jets, floats, valves, springs, bells & whistles and spray everything down real good you should be pretty safe. Just make sure you have a clean work area.

Those Power Now things are junk. I know two different people who have tried them and it made NO difference at all. I borrowed a set from a guy that had them and I didn't notice ANY difference at all. If anything it was worse, since you have more crap in the way of airflow into the carb. Spend your money elsewhere...

Go aftermarket. The stock ones are junk IMO. Find a nice billet one with the crossover tube built on. They are the shiznit.

I would say its a sign they don't know what they are doing. (No offense chase, lol) on a banshee cylinder any big-name builder would get it welded or use Epoxy. Not JB Weld. I wouldn't trust those cylinders any farther than I could throw them. Good luck with them man. You never know they might scream like mad and make me look like an ass. I wouldn't stick anything with JB weld on my bike though.

I believe the 4mm stroke 5mm longrod cranks had one of two numbers on them somewhere... H129 or any number with three consecutive ones in it. Like 4111. I don't know about your 204 number. Take an up-close picture of where the rods connect to the crank and I can compare it to my 4mm and see if I can help you out there, but that's a long shot. Looks like HR204 is the part number for the Hot Rods Crank Web. Its just a part number for part of the crank, its not going to tell you if it is a stroker or not I don't think. Take some up-close pictures of where the rod connects to the crank for me...

It's a pretty good idea to hone any time you are putting new rings on or new pistons in. It will help the rings seat better and last longer. If you are in a hurry and have some extra rings around though, you can probably get away with just sticking them in. Save yourself a little headache down the road (new rings before they are needed) and get those cylinders honed. Your local dealer can probably do it for pretty cheap. The local yamaha dealer here in rock springs will hone them for $12 a cylinder.

Who is doing your porting? Are you keeping the same pipes? Getting bigger carbs? Your best bet would be to just do a plug chop and see if you need to change. I would probably say yes, you will need to change your jetting a little once you get your cylinders ported. Welcome to the addition that we like to call Banshee.

I would prob. go with the T5's myself. They are a good all around pipe. I've run lots of pipes in the past and the T5s are a pretty safe bet for any kind of riding. You won't have any trouble with them on the 404 kit. Personally I wouldn't go with Big Bore pipes until you step up to a pretty serious stroker, but I'm sure others will tell you otherwise.

I have run the same clutch in my bike for the last 5 months with absolutely no problems. Haven't even had to adjust it. I pretty much only ride in sand, and I have a 4mil that puts out pretty decent power. If you smoke a clutch in one day you are doing something really wrong with your clutch. No offense. If you are having to feather your clutch all the time to get out of tricky spots or climb hills it might be a good idea to gear down a little to give your bike a little more power so you're not using the clutch so much. I abuse the hell out of mine and haven't had any problems with it. I run fiber plates from the FZR1000 clutch, steel plates from Tusk, and 6 HD springs from the tusk kit. I have noticed a little slippage when I'm drag racing, but other than that it does great for just general duning. I will be going to a lockup kit during my next upgrade though since I'm doing a litlte more drag racing. Make sure you are pre-soaking your fiber plates at least 2-6 hrs before you install them. That is the absolute minimum I would soak them. I usually shoot for 24 hrs before I install them. Just a little quirk I have. I have never had to "break in" a clutch, I soak the fibers for a while, intall everything, adjust it, and romp on it the same as I would any other time. Hasn't failed me yet.

Jamie, yes you can drive up, but you have to park well off the road and you are stuck there until the end of the day when everyone goes back down. You can't deicde you want to leave and just drive down. Get up above tree-line if you really want a good show. Up close to the top, then you can look down and see them comming (kinda) and the road gets really tight towards the top. Find a tight corner and park yourself just above it. I can help you with video if you need. I've been to quite a few of them and its a lot of fun. - Jared

Make sure you get the OEM replacement washer and c-clip for the idler gear. I messed with auto parts store ones and some from the local hardware store and they would get eaten up in a couple rides and would trash your gears. Spend the time and extra money and opt for new OEM parts whenever you can, avoid reusing anything you can get new for cheap. Easy insurance, especially since you have it tore down. Take the extra time and just wait for parts to get shipped in, its well worth the wait and a few dollars in the long run.

Maybe you should keep your feet on the pegs. LOL

If you have the longrod crank you need to get Wiseco 795 series pistons to adjust for the longer rods. Then you will need a spacer plate or cut domes to accomodate the added stroke of the crank. Go with the cut domes.

Don't forget the crystals.

I run 9 paddle extremes with a +4 swinger on my 4mm cub. But I'm a BIG guy and my weight keeps it down pretty good. If the sand is tacky though it will climb the front end up in 1st 2nd and sometimes 3rd. It's hard to keep the front end down a lot of times. I like to jump and do more than just sand though, so the +4 is ideal.

I ran a stock stroke cub with a spacer plate, it ran good and hard but the port timing was off so it never ran up to its full potential. I ran both with stroker domes and spacer plate. The domes left the exhaust port too low and gave it some crazy bottom end power, but it dropped off up top. The spacer plate put the exhaust up real high and gave it insane top end but it had next to nothing down low. Had I gotton a cub set up for the 4mm crank I was running at the time it would have met somewhere in the middle and probably would have been a nice setup. I'm going to a 7mm now and plan on getting cubs set up for the 7mm right from the get-go.

No worries man. Cubs are sold, thanks for the bumps everyone.

Offers anyone?

It's called the Roosting Room, I'd appreciate it if you used it instead of trashing a for sale post like 2bzy2p already did.

Yes, that's true. And if you go look at how much I used to post here, I haven't been around since then. I used to make 15-20 posts a day, so I would say only comming around about once a month to check pm's and make an occasional post would be following along with what I said, and the reasons I provided for leaving, which you are only proving to help reinforce here right now. It was things like this that made me leave, because you can't keep your mouth shut in forums dedicated to certain things. There is a roosting room for things like this, it doesn't belong in the for sale forums. I'm not going to say anything else towads you, 2bzy2p, since this is indeed the FOR SALE forum, and I am trying to Sell something, not go back and forth with you.

Thanks for the bumps guys, I appreciate it. I don't really care what he has to say in here, it doesn't bother me any more. I just expect that sort of thing any more when I come to HQ. Its sad really, this used to be a great place. Like I've said a couple times now, make me some offers if you think its too high. Thanks again everyone.

Like I said, if I can't sell it here it will go on ebay next week. I also said... make me some offers. I kinda like the 65mm bore since you can still run all the normal pipes with it, you don't have to go spend another $4-600 on new big bore pipes, you can use whatever you have. I am 200lbs and this scoots me around pretty damn good. I don't think they make the 65's any more do they? Everyone wants the 68's. Hell, I do. lol If I can't sell it I will probably hold onto it and put it on another banshee down the road. Thinking about getting an 06 since it will be the last year you can get them new. Yes, you can get new ones for $875 but not ported by a big-name builder. Porting you are looking at $3-400 on top of the cylinder price, then the price to get it re-nicasil'd after they go all over it with the tools. $900 for the cubs, $350 for port, $?? for nicasil $800 isn't too bad IMO, especially since they are in excellent condition, with the hone still visible. Make some other offers if you think its too high. At least I'm honest about how much time I have on them.

Sure. I will be up in the mountains off-roading today, when I get back tonight I will take some pics for you.

I know that is going to make it a little harder to sell. Not that much of a difference between the 68's and the 65's if you set the rest of the engine up right. I was running side by side with a 68 out at KP a while back. If you can tune your bike right and know how to ride its not that big of a difference. It's only 10% bike and 90% rider remember. I know what you are saying though, everyone is only concerned with displacement numbers...