BigRed350x

Go with the 4mil. A 10mil just isn't going to run good on trails.

Frame Sold! Thanks again man!

hey loco would you be willing to ship the frame for some extra $$? I will pay for the shipping + the frame + some extra for your troubles. Lemme know. - Jared

I think NYUK only likes the ones with titles. Could be wrong though.

LOL, I try. Just grabbed some scrap off the pile for the grab bar. ROFL I never know what I will do next. Its kinda scary sometimes.

do a quick search bud, this was covered a couple times just this past month. It involves advancing the spark or retarding the spark to the cylinders TDC. Advancing it gives you more bottom end, retarding it gives more top. That's the long and short of it.

No offense, but you sent your rides off for that? I've heard good things about D&M. I hear a lot about them on the 4-stroke boards more than here. Never raced anyone who had their work done or seen one run so I couldn't really tell you.

Some of their stuff isn't very high quality. Hence the cheap prices. Some of it is just like everything else, but other parts (their cranks) aren't too top-of-the-line if you know what I mean. With the banshee, especially the engine, a higher price is usually for a good reason. A good crank is worth its weight in gold. Have a shitty crank come apart and you will be wishing you had spent the extra dough on a better crank.

Here's some updated pics after a little work tonight. Got a start on my new hard-mounted grab bar. Cleaned up some of the grinding marks on the rails. Going to add more to the grab bar setup tomarrow after work. - Jared Bending new grab bar. Top welds on new grab bar. (don't worry there will be plenty of gussets and supports to ensure it doesn't rip off of there. hehe) Before: After: (still not quite done cleaning up grinding marks) More Prettyness: More:

I will be working on my sub frame more tonight and I will snap some pictures for you of what my spacers look like and how big they are. I love them.

I would like to be thrown in the drawing as well! Thanks! - Jared

...and without your chain rollers all that stress from your suspension cycling is going right into the bearing on your output shaft of your transmission. :: That rear sprocket is a 44 I believe. I would have to go outside and check it. I was running a 15 front on labor day weekend. All my other sprockets were too worn down to run and I didn't get my last order from rockymountainatv before labor day. Run what ya got...

I would just find a big-ass EMP and drive the car through it, then scrap the car on ebay

LOL I've been around these frames for quite some time. That stuff has all been gone for a really long time. Good advise for others reading this though.

Polish you crack me up.

I agree, if its worn chances are that everything is worn and should just be replaced. When mine started acting gay I put in a new excentric screw, washer, lock washer, and the whole shifter mechanism. Fixed everything. Mod your shift star while you are in there.

You will notice it on your domes before you do on your piston. Your domes will look like a handful of little tiny rocks have been riding around in your cylinders. The domes will show little indentations, dents, etc. Almost like someone tried to sandblast your domes with rocks.

I've seen that one before. One of the ones I was actually looking at for ideas. Looks good, but I don't care much for his grab bar setup. Looks hard to actually grab and move the shee with. I use my grab bar quite a bit so it needs to be user friendly. Helldriver, you should see the sorta crap I do when I get REALLY bored. I usually end up making week-long projects out of the really bored days. LOL Pieces put between the frame rails to add strength. I will show you when I get some put in. Send your stuff up here to Wyoming with a list of stuff you want done. LOL That's what chase is doing. We have some pretty radical plans for his frame. Yeah, going ot keep the same blue color. I am going to tear it down to the frame again this winter and make some other changes too. Thinking about stretching the front end a couple inches. I've always HATED that stupid cross-frame support they put in right under the pipes so I'm going to cut that out and make my own. Also have some plans for something up on the front end that I will share once its done. Garuntee there won't be another frame like this one out there when I'm done with it. This was one of my ideas for the gussets between the main frame and lower sub-frame mounting point. Of course the lower portion of the design would have to be solid for strength. I would probably fill in the two thin gaps.

I betcha your shift linkage mechanism that grabs your shift star is worn out. At least the springs anyway. Get a new one of those... You will need to remove your clutch basket to get to it though.

Well I was bored this afternoon so I took the ol grinder to the sub-frame. I never really liked the way I mounted the gussets the first time around, and also had some mounts I wanted out of there. I'm ditching the coolant bottle and moving the eletrical crap to the front like loco did. I will post some more pictures of the gussets I'm putting in. Going to cut them out on the waterjet. I'm trying to come up with some sort of evil tribal design for the gussets that will still be strong. I'm going to take the stock grab bar completely out of the picture and weld in my own custom designed grab bar directly to the frame. Here's what I did to the frame so far. More to come later.

If you aren't going to bore it out, I would say sure... go ahead and slap a new piston in there. shouldn't hurt anything. Although you will probably have one side with higher compression than the other. I would just replace both pistons if I were going to do it.

I don't know that I would run it up that high. It will increase bottom end, but you will lose some up top. Not sure on what it would do that high up. I would pull your domes and check to see if you're getting any kinda detonation. Check for little marks on the domes. Almost looks like you have little rocks flying around inside the cylinder when you have detonation. What octane gas are you using? What size domes and what compression?

Mill the head .030" and do a compression test to see if you need to run 50/50 race gas mix. Get some reeds and a low-end power port job and you will be happy. I would go with T5 pipes, not the CPI's if you are doing trails. You would like the T5's more. I've had both and the T5's work better on the trail. CPI are more of a top end pipe. Stock gearing is pretty good. If you go 15 up front you will find yourself bogging off the line in some situations. Try a 13t up front with whatever you have done now and see how you like it. I always liked the 13 in front on trails for some reason. Spend some $$ on suspension.

Cool Head, Noss Head will both work just fine. You just need domes that are for a 68mm bore.

Ha Ha! Thanks for the bumps guys! I too was looking forward to running against you Rippen. Especially since we would be in the same class for KOD. Oh well. Maybe next time. When I'm finished with both of my next projects I won't even be in the same class as you. Forced Induction, power adders, big bore/stroke. Its going to be a mess until next summer. I doubt I will even have the banshee running again until next summer. Its going to cost a lot for the next jump up and I'm building my 450 at the same time. You should talk to Dr. Mooseknuckle over on dunereview and see if he will let you ride his 450. That thing blew my mind and is what ultimately got me going on building up the 450. LOL Its always fun until you ride something that puts your stuff to shame. - Jared